What's in your toolbox?

[Scoundrel]

I was just looking on facebook and saw a link to the "perfect toolbox" and the 30 things it should have in it.  Obviously we all need a few tools.  But living in small spaces means we often have to cut back on anything nonessential.  So what's worth taking up space in your toolbox?

 

[The Road Less Traveled]

I have a husky bag from HD holding a few pairs of vice grips, knipex pliers, metric ratcheting wrenches, screw drivers, 12v test light, and a 20v dewalt cordless impact. I also have the 400ft lb 1/2 version for quick tire changes and up coming front end work.The test light is my most useful tool. I'll snap some pics.

In the orange plastic box is a 20v dewalt hammer drill, 20v jig saw, 20v grinder. I have the 20v circular saw on order. The power tools will be for the camper/cargo trailer I'm building. After the build, I could live without the power tool, but the contents of the bag are my bare minimum. I would love to have mire tools, but where do you draw the line? Tools are to a man, what diamonds and jewelry are to women. You can't just have one. [emoji19]

 

[The Road Less Traveled]

Another note... I'm a ratchet geek. There is a certian way it must feel in my hand for me to happy. Out of all the fancy ratchets I've owned, a cheapy WM $11.00 Stanley is my favorite. Its smooth fine tooth head feels good in my hand. Feels like butter! I'll take it any day over a Williams or Snap on. Im not a pro mechanic, so the cheaper Husky and Stanley stuff should last a long time. I also like vintage crafstman...Before they shipped mfg to china.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I have a husky bag from HD holding a few pairs of vice grips,  knipex pliers, metric ratcheting wrenches, screw drivers, 12 volt test light and a 20v dewalt cordless impact. I also have the 400ft lb 1/2 version for quick tire changes and up coming front end work.

I don't know what year and model you are driving, nor do I know what you mean by "12 volt test light"  but I thought I'd throw a warning out to you and everyone else reading this thread.

It can be positively dangerous to use the old style incandescent bulb type 12 volt test lights on any car with onboard computers.  They can draw way too much current for the circuit to handle, and can damage or destroy the computer if you try to test the wrong wire with it.

They make special computer-safe test lights that use LEDs and have designed in resistors that limit the current to a very small amount.  Here's one example:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24550-C...6331&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+safe+test+light

Notice that it only draws 21 milliamps.

Of course, it's always safe to use a digital multimeter, and it's far more useful for diagnosing problems.  Sometimes you need to know HOW MUCH voltage is there, and not just "Is there ANY voltage"  which is all a test light can tell you.

Regards
John

 

[ramblingvanman]

I don't know what year and model you are driving, nor do I know what you mean by "12 volt test light"  but I thought I'd throw a warning out to you and everyone else reading this thread.

It can be positively dangerous to use the old style incandescent bulb type 12 volt test lights on any car with onboard computers.  They can draw way too much current for the circuit to handle, and can damage or destroy the computer if you try to test the wrong wire with it.

They make special computer-safe test lights that use LEDs and have designed in resistors that limit the current to a very small amount.  Here's one example:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24550-C...6331&sr=8-2&keywords=computer+safe+test+light

Notice that it only draws 21 milliamps.

Of course, it's always safe to use a digital multimeter, and it's far more useful for diagnosing problems.  Sometimes you need to know HOW MUCH voltage is there, and not just "Is there ANY voltage"  which is all a test light can tell you.

Regards
John

That actually looks like a low end logic probe. It will function as a test light, albeit an expensive one. Even with DMMs(digital multimeters) make sure they have a minimum of 10 megaohm impedance before trying to use it to test any computer circuit. The standard test light has it's place, I carry one and use it often. It is important to know when to and more importantly when not to use it though. IMO, the test light is much better and easier to use for testing power locks, windows, relays, lights, horns etc... Use it for electrical load circuits. If the circuit you are testing has an electronic load or signal source, use the high impedance DMM instead; or a logic probe depending on what information you are seeking.

 

[bcbullet]

A tire plug kit and Viair compressor.

 

[minimotos95]

Loads of 3/8 drive sockets and ratchets, quite a few 1/2 drive sockets and Allen sockets to go with the 1/2" breaker bar and craftsman ratchet, Stanley 1/4" ratchet with a few sockets, appropriate adapters to use smaller drive sockets on the bigger ratchets along with extensions and a 1/2" flex joint.
1/2" drive torque wrench
Metric wrenches, nothing noteworthy  but 3 blueprint ratcheting and 2 husky ratcheting.
My orange wire cutters, cheapo soldering iron, craftsman multimeter
Impact driver, 3 big tire spoons, o2 sensor socket, cheapo digital caliper(for reloading but is in toolbox from rebuilding my motor), misc brushes, oil filter plier things, lots of Phillips, flat, square and torx bits, 2 files, vise grips, and some saw blades

I think that covers the tool box, which is a plastic craftsman 3 drawer.
In the roof box I have,
Clarke 80e welder, mask and rods
110v corded drill, circular saw, grinder, jigsaw and sander.
Reloading equipment which I think count as tools?
And a dremel with bits

Bumper Jacks on the outside of my roof rack, 2 ton come along, tire pump and 4 way inside the van

Need to buy:
Propane torch
Drill bits

 

[compassrose]

I'm not giving up my little router and router bits. I don't care what anyone says!

 

[highdesertranger]

everybody don't forget the most important tool of all, your brain. I think I know what the next subject I cover will be. highdesertranger

 

[ramblingvanman]

This is actually a good question. I have been paring down and down and down. Taking an inventory would be a good idea to make sure I haven't taken out anything of major importance.

 

[Queen]

Hadn't thought about this, guess I'll need to put one together. Anyone know of a "basic tools for vans" list anywhere? I can do very simple stuff, but my dad always told me I should have tools because even if I couldn't make the fix, someone who stops to help will have the tools they need to help.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Hadn't thought about this, guess I'll need to put one together. Anyone know of a "basic tools for vans" list anywhere?  I can do very simple stuff, but my dad always told me I should have tools because even if I couldn't make the fix, someone who stops to help will have the tools they need to help.

Keep in mind that WHERE you travel can affect this.  Someone urban stealthing, who's always near hardware and auto parts stores, doesn't need nearly as much as serious boondockers.

THE FOUR WHEELERS BIBLE by Jim Allen had suggested lists of tools and spare parts that I adapted and modified to serve as my own check lists.  His lists were prepared for serious back country travelers, and some of it may be serious overkill even for boondocking van dwellers.  But at least it will give you some stuff to think about.

1: Service Manual
2: A jack that can lift your FULLY LOADED vehicle for tire changes.
3: Two flashlights, large and small.  Optional 12 volt trouble light with long wires that hooks to car battery.
4: Work gloves to protect hands.
5:  Pair of clear safety glasses to protect eyes.
6:  8 to 12 ounce ball peen hammer.
7:  Short handled 3 pound sledge hammer for heavy “persuasion”
8:  Combination wrenches ¼ to 1 inch (or 8 to 24 mm)
9:  Tubing wrenches – some vehicles like Fords need a special tool for fuel line fittings.
10:  3/8 inch drive socket set – 6 point, inch or metric sizes as listed for combination wrenches.  Can supplement with ½ drive larger size sockets and ½ inch breaker bar.
            a: Spark Plug socket
            b:  3, 6 and 12 inch extensions
            c:  Swivel
            d:  ½ and 3/8 adapters
(Note:  6 point sockets are less likely to round off nuts and bolt heads than 12 point sockets.  But some vehicles have 12 point heads and if so, you may need a few 12 point sockets too.)
11:  Inch and/or metric Allen wrenches – if needed.
12:  Torx bit set - if needed.
13: Wire cutters and wire stripper/crimper.
14:  Combination and needle nose pliers.
15:  Large Channel Lock pliers.
16:  Locking pliers (Vise Grips), large and small sizes.
17:  Large adjustable wrench, 12 inch or bigger.
18:  Small, medium, and large punches, center punch, and cold chisel.
19:  Hacksaw and extra blades
20:  Small crowbar or pry bar.
21:  Files, large flat and small round, half round, and triangular.
22:  Siphon hose and funnel (suitable for ATF fill).
23:  Jumper Cables.
24:  Tire pressure gauge.
25: Valve core removing tool.
26: Utility knife & extra blades.
27:  Electric drill (rechargeable, kept charged) and assortment of drill bits.
28:  One large and two small C clamps.
29:  Torque wrench (optional).
30:  Digital Multimeter.
31:  OBD code reader – if needed.
32:  Spark plug tester.
33:  Small grease gun.
Special tools such as spindle nut wrench for your 4X4 axle, tie rod tool, etc.

1:  Inflated, full size spare tire.
2:  Duct tape
3:  Spare fuses, at least two of every size in your vehicle
4:  At least one gallon of water above and beyond your drinking water
5:  Assorted zip ties, tiny to huge.
6:  Water pump, power steering, and alternator belts.
7:  Radiator stop-leak, heavy duty.
8:  Silicone emergency tape for patching radiator and heater hoses.
9:  Can of GOOD penetrating oil.  (PB Blaster!)
10: Can of CRC 5-56 for drying wires.
11:  AT LEAST one quart of motor oil, one quart of ATF fluid, one pint of brake fluid, one pint of power steering fluid, one gallon of anti-freeze.
12:  15 to 20 feet of ten gauge wire.  A few shorter lengths of smaller wire.
Small assortment of crimp on connectors.
13:  Roll of baling wire.  (Sometimes sold in auto part stores as “Mechanics Wire”.)
14:  Roll of GOOD electrical tape.
15:  Roll of plumber’s Teflon tape.
16:  Tube of hi-temp silicone sealer (gasket maker).  IMPORTANT!  REPLACE ANNUALLY!  GOES BAD EVEN IF NOT OPENED.
17:  Loctite thread restorer.
18: Small can of wheel bearing grease.
19:  Extra tire valve cores, caps, and at least one new valve stem.
20:  Quick-set epoxy (JB Weld).
21:  Fuel tank repair kit.
22:  Tire plugging kit.
23:  A few feet of fuel line – sized to your vehicle, and a spare fuel filter.
24:  Small can of misc. hardware – assorted nuts, bolts, screws, washers, hose clamps, cotter keys, etc.

Regards
John

 

[Queen]

Thanks, John. That's a lot of stuff and looks very much like the stuff my dad had in his truck.

 

[eDJ_]

I'd put in a good word for  "PB Blaster" nut and bolt penetrating fluid. 

I talk with more and more mechanics who swear by this stuff.  They claim they have tried them all
and wouldn't be without this product. 

If you are ever stuck without a product like this and don't want to risk breaking a bold off,  you can use some brake fluid and allow it to sit for a few hours or overnight.    One old mechanic showed me a mix he made
of used motor oil and new brake fluid as a dressing for parts that tend to rust and bind quickly.  Such as brake adjustment parts, clutch adjustment rods,  throttle linkages etc.

Another item that works well for freeing stuck things is diesel fuel.  I've freed stuck gasoline engines with it by pulling spark plugs and pouring a couple ounces into each cylinder bore.   Allow it to set for a couple of days
and then begin gently rocking the crank shaft pulley to the left and then right a few degrees at a time until
you can turn the engine through 360 degrees.  

But these are some of my suggestions for your Kit that are often overlooked.  These are quite inexpensive
items and can make the difference with the success you'll encounter when using your tools and getting
back under way again.

 

[johnny b]

I'm not sure I'd use brake fluid on a rusted nut. Brake fluid is 'hygroscopic'...i.e. absorbs water from the air.

+1 on PB Blaster.

 

[compassrose]

If, for some reason, you are unable to change a tire on your vehicle (like the tires are almost as tall as you are) a road service is a good "tool" to have as well.

I will have Coachnet for the skoolie. They will cover a "self-contained vehicle". I do not know if your vans would fall into that criteria. You might want to ask them. My daughter kept saying she could change a tire... until we had 3 tires replaced. Now she is saying Coachnet. They will tow us to a shop as well. Premier Coach $159.00/yr for motorized... not too shabby for what they will do (unlimited tow!).

For those who might want to check them out... http://coach-net.com/Plans/

 

[Almost There]

If, for some reason, you are unable to change a tire on your vehicle (like the tires are almost as tall as you are) a road service is a good "tool" to have as well.

That's the most important tool in my toolbox!...

The tires don't have to be almost as tall as me either. If they were put on with an airgun, I'm not getting them back off. That's what I pay road service for!

I will end up carrying probably 3 small toolboxes - 1 full of sewing tools, one for mechanical tools and the third for woodworking tools.

Good thing I have lots of storage space!

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

That's the most important tool in my toolbox!...

The tires don't have to be almost as tall as me either. If they were put on with an airgun, I'm not getting them back off. That's what I pay road service for!

I will end up carrying probably 3 small toolboxes - 1 full of sewing tools, one for mechanical tools and the third for woodworking tools.

Good thing I have lots of storage space!

Please remember that if you are a SERIOUS boondocker, Coachnet ain't gonna come and find you in the middle of nowhere.  Always have a plan B. 

Regards
John

 

[Almost There]

Please remember that if you are a SERIOUS boondocker, Coachnet ain't gonna come and find you in the middle of nowhere.  Always have a plan B. 

Regards
John

So far Paragon hasn't let me down yet! I use them because they can offer me continent wide service.

I was so far out in the bush one time that they gave up trying to find my location on their maps and had the local towing company call me themselves to find out where I was... And then the tow driver picked me up where I'd had to walk to to get phone service. It was actually a landline serviced by a radio tower I was so far out.

Now if they'd only start using GPS coordinates it would have been much easier.