What Qualifies as a "Reliable" Class C?

[Rick39]

Hey folks, 

For quite a while I was pretty dead set on building out a van, but lately I've been tempted by Class C's. The ability to stand up is a nice perk, and I plan to be in campgrounds most of the time anyway (Thousand Trails), so stealth isn't much of a concern of mine. That said, I have a budget of about 5000 (could stretch to 10000 if financing is an option). Is it possible to get a class C that won't be constantly breaking down on me for that amount of money? I see that new ones can go for as much as 100k! That's way too much for me. 

Thanks!

 

[LoupGarou]

Nothing and I mean will sour the purchase more than finding extensive wood rot in the ceiling walls and floor.

 

[Rick39]

Nothing and I mean will sour the purchase more than finding extensive wood rot in the ceiling walls and floor.

Is that something I'll be able to smell or feel? What should I be looking out for when I check out a used RV?

 

[Kyz1]

I'm curious too. I've heard to avoid Thor and Nexus. I've also read that any good brand can have a lemon. I've decided that there's no way around an RV inspection--even though I expect a couple different male family members to help me out when looking over RVs.

 

[Wabbit]

KetoKyz has a great answer. Let an RV guy go over it and he'll have a better sense if the RV is worth it or not.

 

[fluti314]

Wabbit, that leads to a question I have been wondering about. How does someone find a good RV guy/gal if one is new at this?

 

[Wabbit]

I hear ya! When I need a mechanic, I have to trust the reviews I can find and try to interpret which reviews are "real" and which are BS. I would ask around and get a couple opinions on a good RV guy. Are you buying it in a certain area?

 

[travelaround]

Google "RV Inspector Near Me" or try this RV Inspector locator ...
https://nrvia.org/locate/

I couldn't afford a new RV so I decided with my money I could get a newer van or an older RV. I decided to take my chances with the newer van. I hear so many things about old RV's breaking down...

 

[wanderin.pat]

Wabbit, that leads to a question I have been wondering about. How does someone find a good RV guy/gal if one is new at this?

In the RV park I stayed at in NM, everybody took their rigs to one place to get it worked on.  You might be able to find something like that near where you're at now.

 

[gramakittycat]

Look for delamination ,indicates water damage.

 

[Firtree]

Once you see and often smell a Class C or Travel Trailer or Truck camper with water damage you start to understand.

Where's the damage?
Like in a house plumbing in and out going (sinks, toilets, shower/tub) and the roof - add windows in a C, TT, camper

Inside- Look for stains, push the walls, flooring. Look for paint jobs, new wall paper, on walls, in upper, lower cabinets, ceiling; bounce or new flooring, carpet.

Outside -Look for repairs, caulking around windows, around the metal strips covering wall to roof, and roof itself.
IMO the strip at the wall to roof edge is too small, not enough overlap and not enough sealant under the striping. These vehicles move a lot going down the road and the edges and corners spread creating gaps for water.

 

[LoupGarou]

Tires, brakes, engines, transmissions and appliances are an easy fix. As I stated, extensive wood riot will certainly sour the purchase.

 

[Jimmyflorida]

Have you ever considered building a new cargo trailer they almost never leak and you can stand up in

 

[wanderin.pat]

That's what I did.  If I had it to do over again, I might go another direction.  Yeah, Jim, I finally said it.  
But then, I wouldn't have had the experiences I have.  

If you're going to build a cargo trailer, it helps if you do it BEFORE you hit the road, it helps if you have a place to work on it, and it helps if you (or someone you know) has some skill, knowledge and experience as a DIY-kind of person.  Otherwise, prepare to be underwhelmed with your final results.  I'm one of those "good enough, it works" kind of guys.

Of course, YMMV.

 

[eDJ_]

For the money you have,  If you could find a lower mileage hightop extended Van and a Cargo Trailer you won't be dealing with a semi wooden rig.  Keep it to metal and fiberglass and be much more worry free.

If your Van has the bed and kitchenette, and the trailer has other features you have the benefits of an A or C with the advantage of being able to un hitch the trailer and use the Van to go touring.  (leaving the Trailer locked up somewhere safe)

I've seen people with C's with leaking roofs take them to a rubber roofing company and have a black rubber roof cemented to it and attached to the edges of the top.   It only makes the inside hotter and still risk leakage around 
the roof vents and A/C.  

My plan is the top link below.  If I have to leave the trailer in a safe paid parking garage when I don't want to be towing it
I'll do it.  Or on a paid secure parking lot like at an airport.   But being able to have it whole when I want it....like in camp....and break it in half....to go touring without having to tow the trailer....suits me.

 

[DannyB1954]

Some brands that have a good reputation are Born Free, Big Foot, lazy Daze. There may be others that I am not familiar with.
These have been around a while so you may find an older one in good condition. RVT.com has a 22' Lazy Daze for $7,500 https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1984-Lazy-Daze-22-5007724924
Being a good brand is no guarantee of quality many years later. If the owners did not keep the caulking fresh anything can be junk. If used during the winter on salted roads, that brings along other bad issues.
One other word of caution is Older odometers only went up to 99,999 miles. So if the odometer reads 50,000, that could also be 150,000, 250,000 etc. Class C's also use instrument clusters that were on other vehicles like vans, so a junkyard unit could be had easy with low miles and swapped out. Really you can trust what any odometer says to a very limited degree. I bought a van with 40,000 miles on it, or rather 140,000 miles.

 

[squid]

IMHO a fiberglass roof is your best friend in a Class C.

 

[mpruet]

Be aware that a lot of RV parks require that their guest’s rig be less than 10 years old.

 

[ovrcmr]

There are some rd inspection videos on YouTube that show where to look for water damage. Mainly get on the roof if allowed and step around gingerly, check inside cabinets, along all corners inside and out. Outside look for wavy sides. Sorry, that's all I remember.

 

[Paul Foster]

Walk all over the roof looking for soft spots. Check the caulking to assure they are still flexible and well maintained. 

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Take a quarter and tap on the exterior if the sides are fiberglass. [size=small][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif] If it makes a sharp noise there isn't an issue. But if there is a dull sound instead, beware. [/font][/font][/size]

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]There shouldn't be any musty or mildew smell inside. [/font]Check the headliner and inside all the cabinets, especially at the corners, for stains. Check the interior side panels for stains or bubbling. Check the vents and the skylight over the bathtub for any water intrusion. Walk all over the floors looking for soft spots.