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VanKitten

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I have a 1988 E350 motorhome.  (Honeywell)

I have taken it to the local weight station (town dump) 

It weighs 7500 as it now stands.

I am worried.   GTW is listed as 10,000

Tell me about being overweight.    What can I do if I end up too heavy?
Can I change tires?  Beef up suspension?   Etc?

I cannot imagine what I could remove to get down lower.

I still have the wetbath, bed, all electronics to install (with cab to hold it)
Countertop and sink.  Etc

Then..there is water (25 gallons)  and my provisions.

Am I worried without cause?   Is 2500 lbs plenty of "elbow room" to
Accommodate what is left to do?
 
no matter what you do the GVWR will still be 10k. I am not saying do nothing, good tires and suspension makes that 10k easy going. I would load it up and reweigh it. highdesertranger
 
GTW?

Gross Trailer Weight?

Please take a picture of the labels in the driver door jamb (you can cover the last 5 digits of the VIN if you wish).

Then post the picture here.

We need to make sure we have the right numbers.
 
What HDR and gsfish said:  get it weighed fully loaded and see if you have a problem first.  1 1/4 tons is a lot of stuff.  If you are overweight come back for suggestions.

10,000 lbs is about the GVWR of a 1 ton truck.

 -- Spiff
 
IThose numbers are worn away. I was told by seller it was 10,000 total gross weight

So...if I "load it up". Meaning, install wetbath as planned...install desk and bed as planned, install cabs for storage and electronics as planned. Then..if I am over...seem mighty expensive to start ripping new stuff out.

I am trying to figure out if 2500 is enough "room" to finish this build with some left over to actual provisions.

I was actually shocked to hear the number at 7500 considering how little I have actually done so far.
There isn't another weight station around for me to double check the scale.
 
My standard cargo van weighs about 6000 with some stuff on board so your empty weight is probably about right.

How full was your gas tank? I think you should be able to do an interior build-out thats under the limit.

Have you seen the videos on youtube that demonstrate how to build lightweight but very strong foam board cabinets?

It involves some effort but the results look amazing, and the cabinets weigh very little.
 
I looked around at some different Class Cs of that time and that weight of 10,000 seems pretty accurate. Class Cs are known for having a limited payload which is why they aren't a first choice for many of the snowbirds/full-timers that carry a ton of stuff. 2,500 lbs is still quite a bite, I'd start with "liquids" and this chart will calculate it if you fill in how much of each you plan to carry: http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-liquid-weight.shtml A lot of people carry books, canned good, sets of dishes, etc. that can quickly run up a total.
 
2500lb's is about what a small car weights so unless the rest of your build materials are granite you should be good
 
I'll look. Never thought to look there.

Since Honeywell (back in the day) actually built for 3 possible end products (mobile food delivery, ambulance, and motor home) there seems to be very little about the one I got. I know it was built out as a food kiosk...never was a motorhome till I start to transform it.

Now I worry about weight. I will check the registration papers. Thanks for the idea.
 
VanKitten said:
I'll look.    Never thought to look there.

Since Honeywell (back in the day) actually built for 3 possible end products (mobile food delivery, ambulance, and motor home) there seems to be very little about the one I got.   I know it was built out as a food kiosk...never was a motorhome till I start to transform it.    

Now I worry about weight.   I will check the registration papers.   Thanks for the idea.

While we're on the subject, something related ...

Let's say that someone wants to weigh their vehicle, but doesn't want to pay a lot to do it, and especially doesn't want to get reported to anyone if overweight, generically speaking, where and how to do this best?

Tom
 
Hi,

This is a page that has a breakdown on the weight of my conversion -- it might help you estimate how much weight you will be adding:
http://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-conversion/our-promaster-conversion-weight-of-conversion/

Everything in my conversion of the ProMaster bare van added up to 1034 lbs, but people, fuel, water, and propane add another 970 lbs.  

In addition to the gross vehicle weight, there should also be a limit for each axle.  Seems like it would be worth digging around and seeing if you can get all three weights.

Gary
 
Vagabound said:
While we're on the subject, something related ...

Let's say that someone wants to weigh their vehicle, but doesn't want to pay a lot to do it, and especially doesn't want to get reported to anyone if overweight, generically speaking, where and how to do this best?

Find a truck stop with a set of scales, or a farm coop, grain elevator, or just google public scales and the area you are in...town, or county, or state.

Most city or county landfills also have scales, as to whether they will let you weigh for free, you will just have to ask the attendant.

At places like Loves or TA truckstops, you just drive in to the lot and pull on the scales. There will usually be either a callbox there, or a digital sign to give you instructions. After you weigh, you park, then walk inside, they will charge you a few dollars and print out a weight ticket.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Find a truck stop with a set of scales, or a farm coop, grain elevator, or just google public scales and the area you are in...town, or county, or state.

Most city or county landfills also have scales, as to whether they will let you weigh for free, you will just have to ask the attendant.

At places like Loves or TA truckstops, you just drive in to the lot and pull on the scales. There will usually be either a callbox there, or a digital sign to give you instructions. After you weigh, you park, then walk inside, they will charge you a few dollars and print out a weight ticket.

Good info.  Thanks.  And what about the overweight issue -- does any type of scale have an obligation to report overweight vehicles to any agency?

Tom
 
Oregon has unmanned scales everywhere just pull on the scale and there is a digital read out you can just read. any agriculture area where they are trucking crops there is usually free scales or nominal fee scales. these scales are so the trucks aren't overweight they don't report to anybody except the driver. highdesertranger
 
Vagabound said:
Good info.  Thanks.  And what about the overweight issue -- does any type of scale have an obligation to report overweight vehicles to any agency?

No privately owned scale will report you to anyone. If you are directed to a state owned weigh station by an officer of the law that is a different matter, of course.

But for private vehicles, (not commerical trucks) in all likelihood the attendant will have no clue as to what your weight should be.

And that is the reason for the scales to exist, for people to weigh the vehicles and make corrections if needed. If you are driving a vehicle that is seriously and obviously overloaded, you would probably know it already!
 
VanKitten said:
So...if I "load it up".  Meaning, install wetbath as planned...install desk and bed as planned, install cabs for storage and electronics as planned.   Then..if I am over...seem mighty expensive to start ripping new stuff out.    

I am trying to figure out if 2500 is enough "room" to finish this build with some left over to actual provisions.

I was actually shocked to hear the number at 7500 considering how little I have actually done so far.  
There isn't another weight station around for me to double check the scale.

Perhaps using the filters on websites or apps that we use will reveal a Pilot, Loves, TA, etc. Load up for a camp outing & get weighed, (cost me $11, I fit on one scale), go camping, and repeat this as your build continues, starting with bed & bath as rest & hygiene can be useful, and creative cabinets/storage could keep you at a good weight.
 
In the states where we have lived, the registration lists the weight of the vehicle itself, not the GVWR which would be the weight of the vehicle and allowed cargo. Class Cs simply do not have that much payload capacity, TTs tend to be low but 5th wheels generally much higher as with Class A motorhomes.

I would keep it as light as possible as the closer you come to that max, the more demand it puts on the vehicle.
 
The weight ratings are there for a reason. Safety first. I would not want to be driving down the Grapevine in CA or down some of these 14k mountain roads with a vehicle that could not stop safely or might break an axle on the way down. Nor would I want to be in front of or next to one. Build light, be safe.

Christine
 
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