Water damage

[Az68f100]

So I pulled off the 70s wood paneling, one because it was ugly, and two because I knew there was some water damage from before.  Now I have some rotten wood fame parts to replace, any advice on how to go about it before I replace the insulation and paneling? 


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[Almost There]

First thing is to figure out how it's attached to the outside skin.

If it's glued, it might be downright difficult to separate from the skin. But otherwise it shouldn't be too hard, the wood is simply stapled to the next piece which won't be difficult to take apart.

Get a Kreg pocket screw jig - I used the junior because of the cost and found that setting it up twice to put to pocket screws in a 1 x 3 wasn't very difficult. If I was running a full sized woodshop then the junior would be the wrong way to go but for a one time job it's fine. It's well worth the price to buy the proper Kreg screws to go with it. 

 Figure out a starting point and work from there replacing pieces as you work your way around the shell. PL premium construction adhesive will hold the pieces back in place against the shell when you're putting in the new wood.

It's likely to be a slow process though because you have to brace the pieces while the adhesive sets up. The other choice would be to use one of the 3M VHB tapes.

 

[LeeRevell]

And, before putting in new wood, I would check the skin and the windows, to find WHY it was getting water leaking into it.  Address that before putting the new wood in.

 

[Az68f100]

And, before putting in new wood, I would check the skin and the windows, to find WHY it was getting water leaking into it.  Address that before putting the new wood in.

I just got it not that long ago, but from what I see on the roof there were some repairs.  I just don't think they bothered to fix the water damage inside.

 

[Az68f100]

First thing is to figure out how it's attached to the outside skin.

If it's glued, it might be downright difficult to separate from the skin. But otherwise it shouldn't be too hard, the wood is simply stapled to the next piece which won't be difficult to take apart.

Get a Kreg pocket screw jig - I used the junior because of the cost and found that setting it up twice to put to pocket screws in a 1 x 3 wasn't very difficult. If I was running a full sized woodshop then the junior would be the wrong way to go but for a one time job it's fine. It's well worth the price to buy the proper Kreg screws to go with it. 

 Figure out a starting point and work from there replacing pieces as you work your way around the shell. PL premium construction adhesive will hold the pieces back in place against the shell when you're putting in the new wood.

It's likely to be a slow process though because you have to brace the pieces while the adhesive sets up. The other choice would be to use one of the 3M VHB tapes.

Yeah  it is definitely not glued to the skin.  I already bought the wood to replace it.  I am just worried about accidentally damaging the skin though.

 

[LoupGarou]

Would replacing the wood with a marine grade plywood, then use exterior glue and pocket screws to hold it all together be the way to go?

 

[highdesertranger]

the hardest part is removing the rotten wood without doing damage. pull all the staples that are easily accessible, then cut the wood out. unless you are very good with a power saw I would do this with a hand saw. they make those handheld blade holders for sawall blades. then you can splice your new wood in. glue and pocket screws are your friend, use a good waterproof wood glue like titebound. how do you plan on reattaching the skin? without the correct stapler this is going to be the trickiest part. maybe see if you can rent a narrow crown stapler. you have to adjust it so it doesn't go right through the skin. you can also use that stapler for attaching some new inner skin. first off I would get inside and have someone soak the roof, seams and windows. I am willing to bet you will have leaks. another point get rid of hose c-clamps and bolt that shell down. ask me how I know about that one. highdesertranger

 

[SternWake]

I'd use doug fir 1x4's, pocket screws and an adhesive and replace the whole frame in any rotted area. No idea on disassembly without knowing how exterior is fastened to rotted frame.

Some areas with only a little water damage I'd probably repair the wood with an epoxy type product made for that purpose.

http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Rot-Repair-c33.htm

I mix a lot of epoxy building hollow wood surfboards and wooden fins, and System 3 products have been the best that i have used, but my experience is with their clear coat epoxy, their general purpose epoxy, and the SB-112 epoxy and their 5 minute epoxy. Not the rot fix type products.

Their 5 minute epoxy is too hard to mix properly at 50/50, and too thick to saturate fiberglass though, and yellows badly.

West systems epoxy is highly rated, but I do not like working with it or the final results.