wall mount thermostat controlled propane heater

[Les H]

someone was asking about a vent free propane wall heater a while back . This 10 k btu one has a mechanical thermostat- no electricity required at all. Not 110ac, 12 dc or batteries. Even the igniter is piezo. Costs a bit more than a buddy, but you can set your temp wherever you want. Found it in my local propane dealer

 

[wandering mike]

Do you have any more info on the device?  Brand, Model, Etc.?  It does sound like a possibility if no venting is needed.

 

[Les H]

sorry- wasnt thinking all the way. The brand is Empire, the model is SR-10T. There is a 6k btu one available, but does not have a thermostat option. We have the 30 k btu in our dining room. Company website www.empirecomfort.com

edited to add- they also have built in oxygen sensors.

 

[Willy]

Wow.. it puts out 300 ml of water an hour! Ouch. ..Willy.

 

[Les H]

from the manual that i downloaded
VAPOR: A By-PRODUCT Of UNVENTED ROOM hEATERS Water vapor is a by-product of gas combustion. An unvented room heater produces approximately one (1) ounce (30ml) of water for every 1,000 BTU’s (.3KW’s) of gas input per hour. Refer to page

The 300 ml you claim would be more appropriate for a 100k whole house unit for 2000 sf, not a 75 sf van.

please note- **30**, not **300**ml.

** ANY** propane hrater gives off water vapor, its just the nature of the beast. I hope this was an honest mistake, a typo, and not a continuing effort to be dissagreeable with me, as it appears to be at times. Damp rid, crack a window, proper insulation, controing your breathing, move to a more temperate climate all help with moisture buildup.

 

[Willy]

from the manual that i downloaded VAPOR: A By-PRODUCT Of UNVENTED ROOM hEATERS Water vapor is a by-product of gas combustion. An unvented room heater produces approximately one (1) ounce (30ml) of water for every 1,000 BTU’s (.3KW’s) of gas input per hour. Refer to page The 300 ml you claim would be more appropriate for a 100k whole house unit for 2000 sf, not a 75 sf van. please note- **30**, not **300**ml. ** ANY** propane hrater gives off water vapor, its just the nature of the beast. I hope this was an honest mistake, a typo, and not a continuing effort to be dissagreeable with me, as it appears to be at times. Damp rid, crack a window, proper insulation, controing your breathing, move to a more temperate climate all help with moisture buildup.

<br /><br />&nbsp;Do the math Einstein: 30 ml per 1000 BTU * 10,000 BTU's= 300 ml and that's per hour. Maybe YOU should do a bit of reading before starting to sling sh!t.&nbsp; <br /><br />&nbsp;Here's something else to think about, if you're able, and it's that propane furnaces that are vented directly outside introduce NO water vapour into the living area. There's an efficiency hit, but NO water vapour. Buddy, get a life, and one with less paranoia (and maybe some reading glasses).

 

[Les H]

ok , " shrug", I can admit a simple mistake or oversight. Its still a viable option for those not wanting to use electricty in conjunction with thier heat. As to the rest, it only reinforces my observation. I hope those reading the post get the information and make thier own decision about the heater, thats all. Take care..

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;I truly wish that I could still go down south for the winter. Right now it's 36 F, snowing, and soon back to rain. visiting the parents while I get the paperwork for disability sorted and sent, and heating with a 1000 W heater and not cooking inside. Any exposed metal (aluminum door/door frame, window frame) is basically dripping from condensation. I DO have this beast vented, but the humidity outside being 90% means things will be staying a tad bit damp.<br /><br />&nbsp;If it weren't for the hassle and winter being rather short, I'd seriously think about building and installing a wood stove. Looking at the economics of the situation though, it's only around $60/month in propane needed for both heating and cooking in the winter (for my setup), and that's for only 3 months. Afterward, that same $60 will last till near next winter and I won't have to haul an unneeded wood stove with me for most of the year. of course, if everything gets cleared up and I can winter down south again, the most I'll have on my pickup is a canopy and it's Arizona here I come!!&nbsp;<br /><br />&nbsp;One thing I shoulda done, and I blame dumbass procrastination for not doing so, is to rip off all the interior aluminum flashing on my camper and replace with plastic or wood. it would make the rig just a bit warmer and cut down on condensation and thus mold. Oh well. As it is, I'm using my door as an impromptu dehumidifier. All the water condensing on it (at least till it gets considerably colder) drips down and out.&nbsp; ..Willy. &nbsp;

 

[old driller]

<span style="line-height: 20px; text-align: left;">"Do the math Einstein: 30 ml per 1000 BTU * 10,000 BTU's= 300 ml and that's per hour. Maybe YOU should do a bit of reading before starting to sling sh!t."<br><br>This number assumes constant&nbsp;</span><span style="line-height: 20px;">consumption of gas. &nbsp;Considering the size of the space being heated (a van) and the fact that the heater is thermostatically controlled, &nbsp;I doubt that it would be reasonable to expect this amount of vapor (let alone condensate). &nbsp;The heater, &nbsp;if functioning properly, &nbsp;will cycle as required by the thermostat thus reducing the amount of gas consumed. &nbsp;Obviously, &nbsp;this cycling will reduce the amount of vapor. &nbsp;Additionally, &nbsp;as the device is being used in a van there are probably enough air leaks around windows, &nbsp;doors, etc. that the van will essentially be a "vented" enclosure -- or at least enough incoming air to considerably reduce the amount of vapor one would otherwise expect.</span>

 

[Willy]

&nbsp;Fuel consumption depends on the temperature and cubic feet, as well as how well the rig is insulated. Vans can be rather notorious in that respect, given that they often have exposed (though painted) metal which is often somewhat colder than the wooden furnishings. When it comes to venting, all isn't equal, since water vapour tends to condense on whatever cold surface is available. Moisture-laden air doesn't necessarily all evacuate out of one convenient outlet. For example, one person could be cooking under a fume-hood which has a powered extractor fan and another could just be using a powered roof vent fan. Chances are the guy using his roof vent will have considerably more condensation on his ceiling/walls than the guy with the fume-hood.<br>&nbsp;Regardless, the math is still valid re. ML water vapour/hour. ..Willy.