Van-Tramp adventures 2015

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Thanks for the unusual RV pictures . Looks like you are having a great time .
 
Some time in Seward Alaska
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/some-time-in-seward-alaska/

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The original plan was to stay a whole week in Seward, but after talking with others that have spent time there and work over the Internet, we decided to stay undecided. See, when a cruise ship comes into port – and they do daily in Seward – the thousands of tourists flood the cell towers and kill any data which some of us need to work. While Kerri and I felt we could suffer through a few days, the entire wee was just too much to ask. But, as it turned out, the data signal was not much an issue anyway, so that concern was moot.
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We still only chose to stay a few nights. Just enough time to explore the town and attractions, visit a local restaurant or two, and hike into Kenai National Park. This involved some early mornings to try and stuff activities in before the work days began.

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The Alaska Sealife Center was right down the road from the City Campground and was checked off our list right away. Luckily they stay open fairly late during peak season so it could be accomplished after work and dinner.

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The surprise stars of the place were the hugely adorable Puffins. These little wonder-birds have adapted their wings to suit flying under water, which they do better than you could possibly imagine. Their submerged flight was not the coolest thing about them though, as their curiosity of us humans topped it. It would be easy to believe that it was us on display for their entertainment, not the other way around. Nevertheless, they would approach within inches and just stare, with the tiny little brain clicking away trying to figure out what that big black thing is in my hand. Go figure… I really like Puffins.

Finally, Kenai Fjords National Park (my 68th National Park) was our next stop to hike up to Exit Glacier. This is pretty much the only thing you can do in this park without taking a water-taxi in. Not a long hike by any means – about 1 mile – but in the end we were a bit disappointed. Every sign leading up to the glacier said, “you can touch, but do not climb on the glacier”, yet upon arrival to the glacier we were cordoned off by ropes and signage. While amazing to see my first up-close glacier, I was also really looking forward to a frozen finger or two after.

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A quick resupply of some necessities (milk and beer) while we had a Safeway and we were off the next morning to spend a few days in Hope again before having to spend a week in Anchorage to finalize things for the trip back through Canada and into the lower 48 in a few weeks.
 
On your way home take the Glenn Highway and stop at Matanauska glacier. You can get out and walk on it. The drive from Anchorage to Glennallen is the prettiest in Alaska but most people miss it. In Anchorage be sure to go up to Glenn Alps and hike the power line trail. Time it to get back to the trailhead at sunset and it's stunning.

You did go back to Alyeska in Girdwood right? You might want to do some or all of the Crow Creek Pass from Girdwood to Eagle River. It's an overnighter but it can be done in a very LONGGGGGGG day. Just go up to the Pass and come back and you are in real-live Alaska. Take bear spray, whistles and bells!

Did you do Hatcher Pass road from Palmer to Wasilla? It's worth doing also.
Bob
 
Quest for wild berries
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/quest-for-wild-berries/

We ended up returning to our favorite place to date for a few days of relaxation before working our way back into Anchorage to prepare for the return trip through Canada. Hope, Alaska has ranked as our #1 spot ever since out first visit there (and more). A small fishing town miles away from civilization it was the first time we truly felt like we were in the great wild Alaska.

This time around we took in the night life, and considering the town consists of only two businesses (a bar and a cafe) it is a very happening place come the weekends with live music, dancing, and just a great atmosphere. So, we partook…

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Once again we ran into the Malimish family (I swear they are following us) and who referred us to a great trail that opens up to a great meadow full of wild berries not far up the road. The conversation was simple, “follow the dirt road to the end, then hike out a mile… at most”. That evening Kerri, Moose, and myself did just that. Going off the geo-tag of the photo’s taken by @Malimish_Aisrstream we arrived at the trailhead, and hiked out for just under 3 miles before turning back. We did not find any such berries or meadow, but ran across many bear droppings.

It turns out that the images they took were geo-tagged incorrectly and if we had followed “that other” dirt road we would have been in the right place. So, in the morning Kerri, Moose, and myself did just that; hiking less than 1 mile and into the most surreal place I have come across in all my travels.
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Seriously, look at that place! I could have stayed out there all day exploring the rolling hills and picking berries. Of course wild blueberries were on the menu for later that night.

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You most certainly should do everything in your power to come out. If you have limited time/money, put your focus on the Kenai peninsula. South of Anchorage has been stunning. The rest is still great but when it comes to "bang for buck" this is the place.

It may also be cheaper to fly in and rent a Uhaul van for a week or two then fly back home. Lots of rental vans being used this way out here.
 
The plan is to follow the weather so after bunking down in Florida for the winter I will definitely be heading north. Maybe hit the Yellowstone area for the spring and then go up to AK for the summer. I just needed a passport
 
Whittier Alaska
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/whittier-alaska/

Whittier took me by surprise. In fact, it was not on our itinerary at all due to earlier advice that there was “nothing there” from other travelers. With the choice being Whittier or extra days sitting in the big city of Anchorage, we took the drive through the tunnel into Whittier (a $22 toll to do so) which is the longest highway tunnel in North America. The 2.5 mile tunnel is a single lane tunnel in which both directions must share, alternating back and forth in 30-minute increments. To take it a step further, both directions of traffic must also share the tunnel with trains going to and from Whittier. A unique feature surely worth experiencing on its own.
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Exiting the other side of the tunnel was like entering a whole new Alaska. The weather was different. The landscape was different. In fact, Alaska had changed entirely in the 10 minutes it took to navigate under the mountain and through the tunnel. At first the town of Whittier was hiding behind the 950+ foot long Grand Princess cruise ship, the largest in the Princess Cruise fleet until 2013, and its 2000+ tourists.
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The side effect of having this many people in town was that the cellular data was quickly overloaded and useless. Whittier’s population of just 200 grows ten-fold when this ship pulls into port and the infrastructure is just not there for that many people. Nevertheless, the ship itself was a sight to be seen and it was scheduled to leave before nightfall so no big harm was being caused.

At our free camping location, near the local airstrip, Kerri expertly navigated the Airstream to make it a three-some of Airstreams on the beach. We hung out with the @Mailimish family who preemptively stalked us by arriving the day before then pleading innocence. We also met Kate and Ellen of @Birchandpine who only just arrived in Alaska the previous night.
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For some time the Grand Princess gave all the signals of leaving, but failed to actually do so, making it impossible to get my work done. Kerri and I both got an itch to get our feet wet and since there was time to kill, we set out for our first paddle even though it was very late in the evening. The paddle was short, but the scenery of the shoreline opposite the town of Whittier was over the top. It is no wonder that the cruise ships come here.
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Paddling one glassy teal-colored waters surrounded by waterfalls, glaciers, and bald eagles, I could not help but think of the “nothing there” comment that nearly kept us away from Whittier. Already, only a few hours into the stay, I was falling for this place… hard.

The next day it rained, and rained, and rained. Instead of struggling against the weather, we both settled in for an extra work-day which would allow us to be a little lazier on better-weather days in the future.  This plan paid off as the following morning (now day 3) was full of surprises. First was the morning view out the panoramic windows of the Airstream…
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… which I enjoyed with my morning coffee while rushing Kerri out of bed so we could fulfill our day-1 wish of kayaking into town for breakfast.

Whittier is roughly one mile away as the crow flies – or paddles if you will – so the length of the trip was no problem. The larger concern was the etiquette of docking our kayaks in the marina upon arrival. Neither of us had any experience with marinas, and with no radio to call into the Harbor Master, we did not know what the proper etiquette was. We just winged it while staying respectful that this area is used by locals for their livelihood.
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It was a joy paddling through all the parked boats. Most were fishing, or utility boats of one sort, with some recreational boats sprinkled in there for flavor. We found the boat ramp, and instead of tying up in a space that may prevent a boat from coming into his dock, we lifted the kayaks out of the water and placed them out of the way on dry land. A short walk later and we arrived at our destination for breakfast… and guess who preemptively stalked us again? Yep, the Malimish family (and Kate & Ellen) were there waiting for us to arrive.
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After breakfast Kerri and I had planned to continue our paddle further down the shoreline to Cove Creek where the salmon were running upstream only to be blocked by a small waterfall.
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It is here that they spawn and die, and finally become food for the many birds (and bears) in need of such sustenance. It isn’t easy, or rewarding, being a salmon.

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I then went on to imitate the local wildlife and caught my own damn fish with my ‘bear’ hands. The fish were promptly released to abide my state law that prohibits and fish being kept unless “hooked in the mouth”.

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The successful paddle (and fish viewing) ended with a return back to camp to work for the day. We vowed to make another paddle into town after work for dinner, and did just that. Another smooth entry into port lead to a fine meal at a local restaurant but just as we were walking back to our kayaks, the rain began to fall.

At first I thought it may be a quick shower, but as we paddled out of the harbor the rain quickened its pace. We were both soaked within minutes but still had nearly a mile of open water paddling to do before arriving back to camp. We arrived soaked to the bone of course, but the entire experience was fun and exciting.

Our final day in Whittier was filled with chores. Laundry (thanks to all the wet clothing), refueling, and packing filled the day before a late afternoon departure on our way into Anchorage for a few days of prep work for the drive back through Canada and into Washington in a few weeks.

Before leaving Whittier, Kerri and I both agreed that it tops the lists of all places we have gone in Alaska to date with Hope being a close 2nd. We were both very happy to have come to Whittier and would do so again if we had more time. We failed to explore a few areas on our itinerary and wished we had more time to finish them all.
A few more images of the days in Whittier.
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Lu-Lu Belle glacier tour
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/lu-lu-belle-glacier-tour/

[img=308x145]http://lulubelletours.com/images/boat3.jpg[/img]
On Wednesday Kerri and I spent the day out at sea… sort of. We came to Valdez primarily to take the Lu-Lu Belle glacier tour which had been recommended by so many.  Captain Fred has been taking people on this tour, and on this very boat (the Lu-Lu Belle) since the 1979 and his experience showed.

The cruise is advertised to take 7+ hours with no scheduled time of return. This allows us to see what we want and explore areas without any time crunch. In the end, we returned at 9pm… 11 hours after leaving. I have no complaints about the time though as we got to see a lot, and Captain Fred shared his knowledge of the land for nearly all of the time on board.

From the scenery, local fisherman, harbor seals, otters, whales, glaciers, and icebergs along the way, the tour was amazing.

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Valdez Alaska
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/valdez-alaska/

Valdez Alaska. Known for the oil spill even though the oil itself never touched a beach in the Valdez area. This place is all about oil, oil, oil. That big oil pipeline ends here, where it is fed to those enormous oil ships which haul it down to the West Coast of the lower 48 for consumer use.

The first three days of rain in the month of August, and were here for them all. We stuck around for the weather to clear to take our Lu-Lu Belle Glacier Tour, which was the primary reason we came down this far out of the way.


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Our camping spot was right beside the end of that pipeline at Allison Point, right beside the largest oil storage facility in America. We had a great view of Valdez and the mountains across the bay. From here we were able to visit the local fish hatchery and witness the thousands and thousands of fish all clamoring to finish off their life cycle.

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From Valdez we officially start the process of leaving Alaska. First a stop in to Wrangle National Park to see the town of McCarthy, then a final stop in Tok Alaska for fuel, laundry, and work before heading into Canada by the weekend… but I am getting ahead of myself. How about more of images of the views in Valdez?

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Wrangell National Park, McCarthy & Kennecott
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/wrangell-national-park-mccarthy-kennecott/

No way were we going to take the trailer down 60 miles of rutted and washboard dirt road, so instead we found a nice free campground right outside of Chitina to call home base. From here we took the truck into the National Park to visit McCarthy and Kennecott. It turned out to be the right choice as everyone else we knew who drove their trailers down to McCarthy came out with some form of repairs to be made.

McCarthy is a tiny town of only 28 inhabitants, resting deep in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, America’s largest National Park, and my 69th National Park visited. Today it exists primarily as a launching point to see the Kennecott mine – 5 miles up a road inaccessible to the public – or back country activities in the south side of the National Park. Not much more than a single Main street with a few businesses and tour guides, McCarthy preserves it’s small town feel by preventing the tourists from entering by any other means than foot traffic. Parking is allowed at the end of the 60 mile dirt road, at which time all visitors must hike in another half-mile to the town.


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We did jump onto a shuttle van which would bring us further up the mountain side to Kennecott which is home to the Kennecott Mine, a National Historic Landmark. The mine opened in 1900 after two prospectors stumbled upon the richest known concentration of copper in the world. The mine operated for more than 30 years before being mostly deserted in 1939. In the ’80s this area became part of the National Park system and is still being restored today.

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Kerri and spent a few hours walking around McCarthy and Kennecott, opting out of taking any tours as they were 2+ hours each and the thought of being bound to that amount of time with other tourists did not sit well with either of us. Before starting the 2-hour drive back to camp, we stopped in McCarthy again for a quick meal at the The Potato.
 
very cool brings back memories, you know there was a short lived reality show about McCarthey, I enjoyed it. when I went to Whittier the only way to get your vehicle there was on the train. you literally drove your vehicle onto a flat car and stayed in your vehicle for the trip to Whittier though the tunnel. what a trip I will never forget that. anyway great pics keep tem coming. highdesertranger
 
Northern Lights
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/northern-lights/

It has been just over two months since arriving in Alaska and one of the must-see things of this part of the world has eluded me the entire time; the Norther Lights. The first issue was the simple fact that for most of this same time period, the sun did not set. Once the sun began to set each night – still very late into the night though – I was on the ocean-side of this trip and clouds began to be the issue. Finally, every worked out with the sun setting and the clouds giving way to open sky, and after a half-hour wait…

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After photographing the lights for a half hour I stopped caring about the photos. It is not often I go silent (just ask my Mom) but for this short period of time I just stood in silence, with Kerri in my arms, and watched as the lights slithered through the darkened sky.

It was a great way to end this Alaska trip. Today we turn South to make a run through Canada back to the lower-48.
 
great pics. have a safe trip back. those northern do leave one in awe. highdesertranger
 
A quick trip to Vancouver
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/a-quick-trip-to-vancouver/

With the realization that we would be arriving in Washington for Labor Day we chose to stay planted as close to the Canadian Border as possible so we could hop into Vancouver for a day on the holiday weekend. It was a good plan; dodge the weekender crowds at campgrounds and see some place new (for me anyway) at the same time. Our first stop was to visit Granville Island where we could explore the famous Public Market.
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The Granville Island Public Market features a farmers’ market, day vendors, and artists offering local Vancouver goods. There are fifty permanent retailers and over one-hundred day vendors in stalls throughout the market selling a variety of artisan cottage-industry foods and handmade crafts on a rotating schedule – Wikipedia

Ah, but do not let the glamour of it fool you. Granville Island is actually just a single triangular city block, under a bridge, with no parking, and thousands of people roaming about… including Kerri and me. Walking around was the tedium of never having a square foot of space to call your own. Shoulder to shoulder within a multi-ethnic soup of tourists and locals all fighting for space to get to their own Point-B on the island.
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Even though the area was a shock to the senses after months of the mostly solitude and natural panoramas of Alaska, we endured, and still enjoyed, for the two hours we had on the parking meter a few blocks away. Kerri even got her Poutine fix, thankfully. It was all she could talk about going through Canada again. Poutine, poutine, poutine… that itch just had to be scratched in this final visit to Canada.

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Our next stop in town was Stanley Park, a huge sprawling park on it’s own island right in the mouth of Vancouver Harbor and is a National Historic Site of Canada. We drove the perimeter, stopping once for a short hike in the forest to see a light house (we never found it) and to grab an ice cream cone. Another stop, and stroll, near the two main beaches completed our trip to the park. Obviously, we failed to explore the park properly. It is only now, as I write this, that I see just how much we missed. Someday I’d like to return and give it a full day to explore. It really is an amazing park, akin to San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

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And that is it for me and Canada, at least for now.  I must admit, with much reluctance, I like Canada. I really did not think I would and came into it with a major bias to the negative side, but Canada really did win me over. Even the big city of Vancouver was so much more than I anticipated, and without some of the less desirable aspects that I know from cities more well known to me like SF or Denver. Canada truly is a pleasant place, not only the scenery and wildlife, but the people too. Everyone is so nice and helpful it is sickening at times.

My only real beef against Canada is the extreme nanny-state mentality that exists. It seems the people of Canada must be told what to do at every moment of their life, and only the government is wise enough to tell them. From road signs stating the obvious (“road is wet when it rains“, and “take off sunglasses when entering tunnel“) to cigarettes having to hide behind curtains in convenience stores. They eliminated the 1-cent piece a few years ago as counting in ones was just too much to ask of the population. They color coded all their paper currency since having to read the numbers on the bill was also too much to ask. Sure, these decisions make sense – and that describes Canada well; sensible – but add it all together and you have one huge amount of hand-holding at all times in this country. Canadian people are really never given a chance to think for themselves. They are told what to do, when to do it, and how to do it from birth to death.


It makes for a very friendly and organized population of course, but not one I would want to have lived my life. Then again, a friendly and somewhat unarmed population* sure make for great neighbors

* Canada is actually the 12th highest country in gun ownership, per capita, in the world. Go figure that for such a peaceful country, and peaceful they are, they sure like their guns. Maybe us Americans are rubbing off on them, eh.
 

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