Van Hasn't Run For 8 Years, Starting It

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there is no carburetor with fuel injection. the fuel injection system takes the place of a carburetor. the fuel going to the injectors is under much higher pressure then a carburetor. you must use a high pressure fuel pump the easiest way is using the factory one.

you need to study up on mechanics. reviving a vehicle that has been sitting for so long is not a job for the inexperienced.

first off do the diesel in the cylinder thing, turning the engine over by hand. without the plugs in. once you can turn the engine over easy go ahead and do it with the starter again with diesel in the cylinders and no plugs. do this in short bursts for like 10 seconds at a time. let the starter cool in between. a note, this will make a huge mess, it's going to spew diesel everywhere.

once the engine turns over good. you can put the plugs back in.

I should have said this first, unhook the fuel pressure line up front where it feeds the injectors put the line in a cup and turn the key on but don't turn the engine over. it should pump a small amount of fuel into the cup. analyze this fuel look for rust, water, or any contamination.

there is so much more to this then what I have briefly gone over. if you think you can handle it let us know and we can walk you through it.

highdesertranger
 
This is great.  I do think I can handle this.   I appreciate your offer of support.  This project will help contribute to a life of freedom..

Yes I do need to study mechanics..

I have started to learn about auto mechanics.
  First by talking to shade tree mechanics and then on YouTube.  I have watched about all the videos about starting cars and a lot about gas tanks..

I have gotten the Haynes manual.
  On Thursday I will order Chilton, How Cars Work (for big picture) and the Dummy and Idiot books (for general background)..

I have bought an aluminum floor jack, 2 sets aluminum jack stands, wheel chocks and 2 ramps for dunnage.
  Hopefully that will keep me alive...

Have also bought spark plug sockets, gas filter tool and will order a gas tank ring tool.
  Is there anything else I will need?.

I don’t know what the horns are.
  I haven’t looked under the front.  Everything in the real looks rusted.  I will post a picture below that I already have on my phone.

I would like to be walked through the repairs.

I would like to start with Aerokroil in the cylinders and then a day or so later do the diesel and turning the engine over by hand.

The gas is awful.
  I think the tank was over half full but only had a few cups in it when I siphoned it out.  It had a great many particles suspended in it I mistook these for rust.  Some big black krispy chunks made it through the siphon pump.  A picture is below.

I want to see it running before spending much more money.
  After I am sure I am going in the right direction I can take my time as needed to get it running.  But if it is DOA I need to focus on another strategy.

I was thinking about getting an inline fuel pump.
  Hooking it to the leads for the old one.  Then piping it from a 5 gallon tank of gas to the appropriate place in the engine.  Then when all goes well I will likely replace the tank, fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel lines.

It would be awesome if I could start it by July 4rth.
  Then I would move in and be a stationary van dweller.  I like the symbolism of Independence Day but that target is arbitrary.   
 
Does the front end look damaged beyond the obvious?

I am thinking it would be faster, easier and safer, maybe cheaper just to replace the gas tank.  $137 incl shipping.
Any thoughts?

Thanks
 

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That front end damage is cosmetic, not structural. The worst partnis the radiator support is bent. Can be straightened.
Get a junk yard hood and grill......
you maynhave damaged your A/C condensor but even that is an easy fix.

Dave
 
is was referring to the frame horns underneath that all the front end parts attach to. the A-arms, steering box and idler arm all attach here. do you have rust on those frame horns? how bad is it? bad rust there is a death nail. Dodges are notorious for rusting out there. I would thoroughly check that area before putting any money into the van. highdesertranger
 
If you got the scratch I think a new tank is the way to go
 
+1 on new fuel tank, maybe lines as well.  Since there's lots of vans in junkyards, (well, those that weren't crushed for "cash for Clunkers"), you should be able to get those front end parts. My question is (unless I am too late), have you bought it already? If not, then start adding up all these new and used parts, plus an allowance for all the fluids and belts and hoses needing replacement. Then minor things like rattle can or rust-o-leum painting for the hood and rad support... Is this van worth it?  I've been following this thread and never remembered you saying it had front end damage as well. Any other issues?  Glass?

If you want to learn basic mechanics then this is a "tuition in the real world" project, which isn't necessarily bad, but you just have to weigh the purchase and repair costs (plus something for your time and all the back and forth) against what a comparable van (any make) would cost you.

I'm not trying to dissuade you, as it could be a great learning project, unless the engine is seized...  You have a good plan to begin with, have spent time researching and watching videos, and have already invested in necessary tools for any van.  I you locate a good donor van in a junkyard, that will help immensely.  

One big advantage to a Dodge is that from the mid 70's to the 1998 refresh, almost nothing changed other than the Magnum motors in 1994. 

Good luck and we will continue to be supportive.
 
I am the homeowner.



Are these frame horns?  Are frame horns painted? 

The rust on everything seems superficial.  All the bare metal seems to have rust on it.  But it doesn't seem to have structural damage.

What do you think?
 

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looks like it's scaling to me in several locations. can you scrape any of that scale off. if you can you are losing your frame. in some areas it looks like you have already lost some metal. it appears to be worse on the inside. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
looks like it's scaling to me in several locations.  can you scrape any of that scale off.  if you can you are losing your frame.  in some areas it looks like you have already lost some metal.  it appears to be worse on the inside.   highdesertranger

on the left side I did scrape of some scale.  But I thought it was superficial.

What does that mean in terms of the resurrection?
 
scale is never superficial. that's your frame delaminating. what about inside the frame? by the pics it looks worse in there. highdesertranger
 
:( 
All the pictures I took
 

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I'm feeling sick
 

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How much life does it have in it, do you think?

In a year or two of living in it I could save enough to get another van.

I can take more pictures after work tomorrow if needed
 

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ok on the first set of pics in post #28,
the 3rd pic the rust looks real bad on the inside of the frame.
4 pic rust looks real bad
5 pic looks bad

in post #29
1st pic looks bad

in post #35
that looks bad
I will say this
I cannot assess anything for sure here. I am just looking at pictures. I will say this, if any one of your front end parts fail especially at speed it will not be pretty. like I have said Dodges are known for this. I have seen steering boxes and idler arms frame mounting fail. if you cant assess this on you own bring in an expert to look at it. also get all those sticks out of there they aren't doing the problem any good in fact they are contributing to the problem. highdesertranger
 
HDR is correct. I will not argue his accuracy on this.

If you look at it as a practice van, and do not do a lot of traveling, (NONE) that should work for a few years.   Save up and move on up! 

I have a 91 with unknown  miles on it.  I also have replaced 80% of the running gear. (Keeps me out of the bars)
 

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the rust doesnt look horrible to me,a couple getting nasty spots but not seeing where it rusted through,you need to attack it,scrap it,wire wheel,rust converter,primer/sealer and paint,no oxygen no iron oxide

get it running to see if the drive train even works,your idea of getting a temp pump and can of gas is a good one

in my experience with rigs that have sat it's the electronics that are the pain
 
Gary68 said:
the rust doesnt look horrible to me,a couple getting nasty spots but not seeing where it rusted through,you need to attack it,scrap it,wire wheel,rust converter,primer/sealer and paint,no oxygen no iron oxide  

get it running to see if the drive train even works,your idea of getting a temp pump and can of gas is a good one

in my experience with rigs that have sat it's the electronics that are the pain

"the rust doesnt look horrible to me". I would tend to agree.  I think half the older vans from the salt states look at least that bad or worse. You should be able to do what was said, attack it with a wire brush and rust oxidizer at the least. You dont want to ignore it, unless you are into this van for so little that you can just flip it and call this a lesson learned. 

While Dodge has this issue, as HDR pointed out, the venerable G20's are a unibody design as well, so dont think that its just Dodge. Maybe for your next van, look for the Econoline or newer Express(1997), but don't despair, I've seen rolling rust buckets way worse than yours. If you are concerned, in addition to a body shop check of it, watch the YT videos on rust repairs.
 
what you have to remember is that this is a uni-body those front frame rails are just sheet metal. it doesn't take a lot to weaken them. if this was a regular frame I would say yes clean it up and rust proof it. when you weld 1/4 steel to 1/8 inch sheet metal there is already a weak spot with no rust on the outer edge of the weld on the sheet metal. you must also remember that there is no practical way to repair this if the frame horns have been compromised. highdesertranger
 
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