Certainly squeeze as much solar on your roof as you can. Mppt charge controllers can allow you to squeeze as much wattage from those panels as possible, especially with low battery voltages and low ambient/panel temperatures. It is really hard to have too much solar, and all to easy to not have enough.
180 watt laptop? That thing is a Monster. The power brick ratings are what the power brick is capable of delivering, not what the laptop will always be demanding. My 90 watt DC to DC adapter is drawing 22.5 watts as I type this, but the battery is already fully charged.
I never had issues using a 800 watt coleman MSW inverter charging my laptops, though my older one would slow down noticeable once the battery was full. I mainly use my Wagan 400 PSW now for things which I cannot just use a dc to dc converter for. It is quiet, whereas the coleman fan is annoyingly loud and has a high standby current of 0.9 amps, just turned on, powering nothing. I have a DC to DC car converter for my laptop, but the plugs eventually wear out, lose tension overheat and melt. I am on my 4th, and once this fails I will be adding Anderson powerpoles to bypass the Ciggy plug, which while a convenient standard, makes a poor connection.
I can push the ciggy plug deeper into the socket and the voltage drop decreases by .35volts, let it go and it increases again. The more load, the more drop.
Long story short, always suspect the ciggy plugs and receptacles when things using them start acting funky. The ultimate solution lies in using a better connector if the problem is recurring.
Some batteries do not use much water but others do, especially in hot weather and when there is nightly cycling and daily full or nearly full recharging attempted. My old Everstart took water once in 7 years, my Crowns needed water 5 times a year, which ultimately caused their early demise.
No worries about using multiple charging sources at once. Some might drop out and not contribute any charging current, but none will be damaged by doing so.
Most inexpensive Powered coolers are energy hogs. One of these can take a large battery down to 50% overnight, just on its own as they can draw 4.2 amps continuous. That is 100 amp hours for a 24 hour period, not taking into account the peukert effect. mostly these powered coolers are designed only for keeping things cool during driving when the alternator is providing the necessary current.
Compressor fridges are much more efficient, especially the ones intended to run on 12v, But $$$. The Inverter powering a 120Vac dorm fridge option, will also consume a considerable amount more battery power than a 12v compressor fridge.
The high initial cost of a 12v compressor fridge is negated by not having to increase battery storage, and increasing recharging capability. Mine payed for itself in a little over a year, just counting the cost of Block Ice, not including the gas to go get it or the inconvenience of having to go get it, and clean out stinky water, or throw out food contaminated by stinky water.
Also some dorm fridges require large inverters just to handle the start up surge. In general, the closer the rating the inverter is to what it will be powering, the more efficient it will be.
I've been living like this for 12+ years. The 12v compressor fridge is probably the best thing I have added, and enough Solar power to run it indefinitely. For me it is a Luxury that crossed the line into necessity back in '07, and I wonder how I managed beforehand.
