Vagabound's Build-Out - 1993 Ford E350 Box Truck

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Size, length of a roll, and prep.

2" x 48" with no mention of needing special prep chemical spray.

4" x 50 feet with necessity of prep.

4" would overlap a seam more than a 2". That could be important.

How many feet of roof seams do you need/want to cover? The smaller rolls are always more expensive per foot than a larger roll.

The product part identifier for the small roll is RVEMT, indicating this is emergency repair tape in the field.

The other roll is coded as Roof Seal White, RSW-4-50.

-Wayne
 
wayne49 said:
Size, length of a roll, and prep.

2" x 48" with no mention of needing special prep chemical spray.

4" x 50 feet with necessity of prep.

4" would overlap a seam more than a 2". That could be important.

How many feet of roof seams do you need/want to cover? The smaller rolls are always more expensive per foot than a larger roll.

The product part identifier for the small roll is RVEMT, indicating this is emergency repair tape in the field.

The other roll is coded as Roof Seal White, RSW-4-50.

-Wayne

Wayne,

Although I was never a favorite of my math teachers, it wasn't the measuring tape part that was confusing me. ;-)

Just want to know what the recommenders have in mind, and beyond what I can read on Amazon, which one is used to solve which problem?

Tom
 
I used a good bit of the $50 flavor of eternabond an would highly recommend it. It comes in a 20ft roll that's cheaper, but I'm not familiar with the really cheap flavor you linked...
 
osb sucks,plywood much,much better,a little late but pay for or resource(craigslist) plywood,you will thanks yourself when it does not turn back into sawdust at the slightest bit of moisture

did you get the bugs worked out of the engine dieing thing?
 
Gary68 said:
osb sucks,plywood much,much better,a little late but pay for or resource(craigslist) plywood,you will thanks yourself when it does not turn back into sawdust at the slightest bit of moisture  

did you get the bugs worked out of the engine dieing thing?

OSB: Yeah, I thought about that. Like I tried to explain, it wasn't as much the money as it was the fact that no one in the entire store could help me pick a piece of plywood with exterior glue. Plus, at least the OSB had a stamp saying exterior glue. That said, I know about its bad points. My only hope is that it's inside a wall between a piece of fiberglass and interior wall covering, all in a waterproof box. Or at least that's the grand plan. ;-)

Engine dying: It seems so, but I don't want to jinx myself and say yes. Plus, it's nearly impossible to know the difference between A) fixed or B) it's an interval between the last time and the next time.  Thanks for asking.

Tom
 
"X" in the ply description means exterior Glue. example CDX means one side is grade "C" the other side is grade "D" and the glue is exterior. of course Marine Plywood is the best, painted Marine plywood last a very long time in the harshest environments. highdesertranger
 
Marine plywood's glue can withstand a certain amount of time in boiling water. Not sure how that applies when the wood itself will swell when wet. marine ply must also meet some standards ass to what wood is used, the thickness of the plies, and allowable voids and how any knots are fixed/sealed.

I worked in a Boatyard some 10 years ago, the Owner, who was in the cashing out phase of his life, decided to use regular exterior grade plywood instead of marine grade.

His logic was that everywhere we used it, it was coated in polyester laminating or sanding resin, but he was always there with a sanding block whenever the exterior grade markings were visible, which shows he knew damn well it was not acceptable to those paying for the custom built boats.

I had seen much difference in build quality of boats made 10 years previous when his father was in charge, compared to what we were making at that point in time. Toxic job, I quit in disgust once I learned all I cared to learn from them.

Supposedly new OSB is much better than the older USB when it first became the poor man's option. It does seem heavier and is more infused with glue. If true, it will take some considerable time before it loses the reputation it now has, as a swelling moldy mess just waiting for moisture to fullfill its role as a curse starting house destroyer.
 
Vagabound said:
Wayne,

Although I was never a favorite of my math teachers, it wasn't the measuring tape part that was confusing me. ;-)

Just want to know what the recommenders have in mind, and beyond what I can read on Amazon, which one is used to solve which problem?

Tom

My apologies.

Be suspicious if someone tells you the 2" tape will leakproof a long, over six inches, crack in a structure under variable stress.

Neither product will permanently close or fix the cracks.

It is taping over a fault line.
 
HDR:
Thanks for that info and especially the thought behind it.  Maybe I should have been clearer.  _I_ knew that stuff already before I went to Home Depot.  _They_ didn't know it!  Pretty surprising, right?  My dilemma wasn't lack of wood knowledge, but not being able to identify their lumber.  After waiting for about 15 minutes for them to round up someone who "knows about lumber" (while standing in a lumber department ), I gave up, bought the OSB, and left. 

While we're on the subject, an additional problem that foiled self-help is the lack of the CDX label on the wood or the price tags.  Most of the wood no longer lists glue type either.  Some types mention an exposure level, such as Exposure Level 1, which I didn't understand at the time.  The opportunity presented itself today to have a longish chat with the manager there.  I explained all of this to him and he apologized and spent about 30 minutes with me in the lumber department, explaining their inventory and how to identify it.  Nice guy.

SternWake:
Right ... if I was rolling in dough, I'd make everything I build out of marine plywood.  Good stuff.  Interesting story about the your old boat building boss.  I've always wondered if they pulled crap like that.  The problem with his logic and method (not that he cared) is that even epoxy resin isn't 100% waterproof.  Eventually, moisture gets in.  That's when you want marine plywood to help resist it, not to mention the added strength all along from the extra plies it has.

wayne49:  
No sweat ... you're trying to help me and I always appreciate that.  Now if I just could have gotten you to take my math tests years ago, that would have been some serious help!  I wonder if that tape is the same sort of stuff that a person could/should put under the flashing around a fan in the roof of a vehicle, as a gasket of sorts during installation?

----------

I've been working my butt off on the truck.  Next update coming soon.

Tom
 
Progress Update:
But she has a nice personality!

Well, I promised an update and so here it is. With the exception of a little more caulking, and my artificial rain-on-the-roof test, Phase One -- Box Integrity -- is complete.  I can't say it's pretty, but I think it's now strong and hopefully watertight.

In short, that phase took about one-and-a-half months and dealt with things that only I would probably notice. This phase included fixing the roll-up door latch and cable support attachment points, replacing rotten wood in the walls, sealing the old wooden plank floor with caulking and paint, inspecting and leakproofing the roof, and replacing 90% of the box corner bolts.

Too tired for photos now. Maybe later.

There are a couple of piles of construction materials laying around my site waiting for Phase 2  - -  Basic Functionality.  That should start tomorrow.

All said, I think my RTR to-do list will be quite a lot longer than I thought.

Tom
 
Vagabound said:
All said, I think my RTR to-do list will be quite a lot longer than I thought.

Tom

Cheops Law:  No project EVER comes in on time or under budget! :)
 
Hi Tom,
You're getting there. You've gotten all the "prep" work out of the way and that always takes the longest. Growing up doing floors with my Dad, he always emphasized how important prepping the floors were. It could sometimes take 4x as long to do the prep work as it would to lay down the actual sheet vinyl.
 
Every Road Leads Home said:
Hi Tom,
   You're getting there.  You've gotten all the "prep" work out of the way and that always takes the longest.  Growing up doing floors with my Dad, he always emphasized how important prepping the floors were.  It could sometimes take 4x as long to do the prep work as it would to lay down the actual sheet vinyl.

Thanks for the encouragement!  My "batteries" are getting pretty low.

Tom
 
Hi Tom,

Hang in there. I've read every post of this thread. Kudos to you for being able to have friends like these to help out. Imagine what we would do without the internet. Oh wait. People would know what to do because they wouldn't have had to rely on the Internet to ask others. Those guys in Home Depot would know exactly what you needed, right? Those were the days.

Measure twice, cut once.

Mike
 
Tom
As someone told me, keep your eyes on the prize. When I ran out of gas, I did the things like sorting or packing. When I was down or overwhelmed i found the easiest thing I could do. Any little step is one less to do and give a sense of accomplishment. What ever it took to keep moving forward.

We are all pulling for you.
 
Tom, I know it's been a hard road, but you've been doing a good and thorough job, it'll pay off in the end
get some recharge, then keep pushing man
 
You all are great. Thanks for the good words and boost. It helps.

A little "backstory" as they like to say now ...

We all get tired, and sometimes exhausted. And often we have many reasons. What we don't usually get to know is how many reasons. 

I have 116 reasons. Exactly.

Why exactly 116 reasons you ask?   Excellent question.

116 is the exact number of bolts in the four corners of the truck's box that I replaced. Well, there and one other place. 

Big deal you say?

1. First, the old rusty bolt had to be removed before a new one could be inserted. 

In some cases, when a good amount of torque was applied from a cordless drill, the nut broke off when I tried to remove it.  Those were easiest.  

In other cases, the nut unscrewed as you would expect.  However, those were harder. Why? Because the nut is on the inside of the box and the bolt head is on the outside of the box.  Without a 50-ft arm span, that's a lot of climbing in and out of the box and running back and forth for one person.  

Also, the original bolts were carriage bolts, meaning that the head is rounded with nothing to grab onto.   I settled on using a pair of vice grips on the bolt head side and a cordless drill on the nut side. 

Great, you say. No, because normal vice grips won't grab a round carriage bolt head.   So, I found a pair of vice grips with rounded jaws. Didn't even previously know they existed. 

Now great, you say.  No, because there was typically no one to hold the vice grips while I was on the other side of the box using the cordless drill. Now what?  I finally devised a way to put the vice grips on the bolt head horizontally, and then using a rope, I tied the vice grips to the frame under the truck to act as my second pair of hands. This worked. But for every bolt, I had to lock the vice grips, and tie the rope to the vice grips, and then go inside the box and unscrew the nut. And then come back outside, and do it all over again for the next bolt.  There was still one type worse.

For some reason there were some very stubborn bolts that simply would not come off. Often because there was no way to get a grip on the bolt head. Those had to be cut off with a Dremel tool. How? Probably different ways, but I used the Dremel to cut the bolt head into quarters. That often didn't work completely. Then I had to cut behind the bolt head until it fell off.   Thankfully, there were not many of this type.

Finally, there was removing the bolt from the hole. For reasons too complicated to explain, the bolt was often wedged in the hole even with no nut and no head. I had to use a punch and a big hammer to knock the bolt out of its hole. This was true for most of the bolts.

2. And then the new bolts had to be put back in. I'll spare you most most of the gory details which took about 10 different steps, but imagine that kind of process above somewhat in reverse, for each of 116 bolts, with lots of Sikaflex sealant, disposable gloves, and enough paper towels to wrap around the Moon.

By the time I got to 50 or 60 bolts, I had finally devised a good method and the process speeded up some.  And in the interest of full disclosure, I had a helper a time or two for a few minutes to take off some of the worst bolts.

You're tired from reading that. Imagine doing it. It stunned me that it took me several days to get this done, in and around other things.

Okay, I'll close with the little box truck humor.

Yesterday I was up sitting in the box of the truck, taking a break.  I started visualizing where everything was going to go, to include the walls that need to be built for the front and the back of the box.  Once I started deducting space for all of that stuff, and the furniture, and the kitchen counter, and the bed, and the shower, a thought crossed my mind -- I might not have enough space. Where on Earth was everything going to go?!?

That was a genuine moment. Now I know that all of you van guys and girls can shed a tear for me now. The poor 14-foot box truck guy who doesn't have enough room. ;-)

Tom
 
It's got to feel good getting those bolts out of the way. Whew.

I kept a master list of what I needed to do just to get out of Dodge. It helped seeing the line items crossed off when I felt overwhelmed. Sometimes finding the littlest thing to do just to get anything done when I really wasn't up to it got the ball rolling for the next item on the list.
As for where it all goes, that's part of your design planning. Make a mental list of what needs to go and envision it in the truck and work around it. You need clothing just like you need a fridge. You need room to store pots, pans and dishes just as you do a stove to cook the food you need room for.

Were it me I would be thinking more along the lines of a van build than a RV like build. A built in stove with a oven is nice but a single burner that can be put away when not in use takes up much less room. A permanent shower is nice but a hoop, curtain and basin that can be tucked away most of the time leaves a lot more floor space. I'd dislike having to switch my bed to a dinette daily but the fact that they are a bed, dinette and storage makes the best use of the space.

In the end you will have to make the hard choices of what fills your needs vs what it would be nice to have. You have more room than a van but not that much more that you can go hog wild on what you take.
 
yup, that sounds utterly horrible
and +1 what Jim said re the van vs RV build, my little 16 foot travel trailer would have been a lot more livable (and lighter) without all the built ins
 
jimindenver said:
It's got to feel good getting those bolts out of the way. Whew.
...

You got that right! If I had the time, I'd get drunk around a campfire and celebrate ... just the completion of the bolts. It feels that big.

After I finished the bolts, I learned that the Sikaflex sealant that I used also comes in grey. Maybe in the next life ..

IMG_20170106_084035-600x802.jpg

Phase 1 included other fun projects like fixing the huge gaps that were designed into the back top corners of the box. Previous owners had tried to fix that with a lot of caulk. And repairing past Frankenstein, new-caulk-over-old-caulk patches on the roof.  Have a few photos to share, but forgot to take a final photo of the fine metal work on roof patch patch. Now it's totally covered in Sikaflex sealant. Dagnabit.  

Anyway, here's a few examples ...

Tom
 

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