Two. Two alternators! Ah ah aahhh ....

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Hence the picture with the four alternators. Past that they need the voltage. In drag racing spl (sound pressure level) the cars were/or are rated by watts at 12 volts. So 0 to 1000 is one class 1000 to 2000 etc etc. But that is rated at 12 volts. Start pushing 15.4 and yeah, you get the idea. At spl above 156 you are almost creating weather level pressure. Why redesign the wheel. These systems, while not for me, take a ton of current and voltage. Learn from them and be done.

Not to say I know best to the OP, but I think the tome I wrote is good for his system, layout and needs. Agreement? Any additions? I am just trying to not make it too complicated so it can be field repaired if something hapens.
 
John61CT said:
VR is usually "internal" that is attached to the alt. The computer does not handle that functionality.

Sorry.  I sold auto parts for quite a few years, including a spell as the Parts Manager at a Dodge dealership for a while.  There is no internal or external voltage regulator  on Chrysler Jeep alternators.  It is controlled by a circuit in the Power Control Module.  Has been since at least the early 90s.

A google search on the subject shows that MOST Fords also use the PCM, since around 2000 or so.

It's not clear - to me - what GM is doing, apparently they only went to something called Regulated Voltage Control about 5 years ago, and it LOOKS like they are now PCM as well.

On the other hand, it does appear that Toyota is still using an internal regulator in their alternators.  As for the rest of the foreign cars, I really have no idea.
 
No, this engine's alt uses an internal VR, easy to see all the replacement alts are the same, both the primary with the 8- groove serpentine and the second one running off a 6-groove.

Looks like a nice platform too!

Sent from my HUAWEI ALE-L04 using Tapatalk
 
Uh ... wut? ELI5 and or provide links. Pictures help.
Trying to absorb but haven't had any real time to get back to this and the Bluebird Wiring diagrams. I wisj I had the ford onrs
..
 
Best to take your favorite local auto sparkie out to lunch and/or pay him for an hour of his time to poke around, sit him down with a printout and discuss your options.

But if you're not doing a lot of driving every week, fuggeddaboudit, not worth spending much on Alt charging anyway, you'll likely just get a little genny and lots of solar anyway.
 
Past what I posted for you. You really don't need to know the Blubird wiring as you are going to be augmenting or bypassing. Internal or External once it is connected is really is a moot point unless you are going to try and get max charging. The best way to do that is new alternators mounted to the points you have and use the same wiring method I wrote up for you. Your old alternators are spares in a box when the new one fails. Stock is made for STOCK applications and "just" stock applications. The least amount of money spent to achieve the needed power replacement. Stock are not 100% duty cycle alternators nor are they rated to make power at low RPM or handle all the heat you're going to create.
John61CT makes a good point. Get a genny and loads of solar. Easy button!
 
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