Trailer weight and required trucks?

[GrantRobertson]

How much can I expect an average travel trailer of a given length to weigh? I am talking about the fully equipped ones with bathrooms, kitchens, beds, tables, etcetera.

I am mostly curious about trailers in the following categories:

20 feet:
25 feet:
30 feet:

And then I need to know what size truck/van I would need to haul each.

I am primarily interested in trailers with regular ball hitches rather than 5th wheel hitches because I would like to be able to put stuff in the truck while hauling the trailer.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Grant, those are some pretty general questions.
A 1/2 ton truck will pull lots of 20' trailers, but adding stuff in the back of the truck adds to the equation. Personally, I wouldn't care to tow with less than a 3/4 ton...just my view.
I don't think I'd want to pull a 30' bumper type hitch. At that point a 5er (5th wheel) is much better for maneuvering/driving.
Not only weight, but tongue weight plays a big part in the tow vehicle.

Another question is whether you will be traveling with a trailer or only moving it once in a while. I'd want a more substantial truck if I were going to do more than move a trailer across town some day.

 

[GrantRobertson]

Grant, those are some pretty general questions.

I know. Sometimes you have to start out in the weeds until someone can show you where the road is.

Another question is whether you will be traveling with a trailer or only moving it once in a while. I'd want a more substantial truck if I were going to do more than move a trailer across town some day.

I will be predominately living in the trailer, full-time, in RV and trailer parks for months or years at a time. I don't have the wanderlust, like many here, I just want a super cheap place to live so I don't have to work as many hours to get by and can then spend more time thinking about and working on my various projects. At first I will be commuting to a regular job, but I will eventually like to move on to being able to work remotely as a technical writer and software developer. I may occasionally move cross country to a different city, if I get a long-term gig somewhere and I need to go into an office every once in a while. As I won't be moving it very often at all, I really won't mind if I have to drive more slowly and carefully.

I want to be able to use the truck to haul materials which will be used to restore/re-engineer the trailer. It seems to me that a 5th wheel hitch would pretty much make the truck useless for other, regular pickup-truck type stuff. I might even get a heavy-duty van and fit it out as a "spare room" for my "lady friend" who likes to spend a lot of time in quiet solitude.

I have several options for if I have to commute. My "lady-friend" has a tiny, old Corolla which she could drive separately on major moves. Or I could ride a motorcycle. Or I could just buy a cheap, used economy car and then resell it if I have to move to another town. So, that part of the equation is covered.

Thanks,
Grant

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Sure, I know its hard to find the right road sometimes.

Let's keep in mind that "slowly and carefully" isn't necessarily "being safe" when it comes to a few tons at any speed. (we weigh in about 14K).

Sounds like your looking at units that need remodel, so that allows some flexibility as to your needs. I'd look at some trailers and decide on what you can live with for size and comforts, then find the one that suits your plans. Once you have an idea of length/weight, etc you'll be able to match the right truck to the trailer.
It would be a bummer to buy a nice truck only to find out the trailer you want out weighs its ability....off we go to find another truck

 

[Unchained]

If you can maybe throw up some Craigslist links to (or, even better, pics of) the type and age of trailer that interests you, it might help folks in giving advice. Sounds like you are considering a 90s or maybe even 80s trailer to restore?

I'm with B&Us on the 30'. That's a bit big to go the bumper hitch route. Then again, my TT is 15' and weighs less than 2000lbs dry, so it may just be that I'm a big chicken

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

For a situation like you are describing - a trailer that sits in one place for months or even years at a time, and is only moved once in a blue moon:

A: It should be possible to remove the 5th wheel hitch from the back of the pickup, store it, and only bolt it back in when you need to move the trailer.

B: Alternatively, it should be possible to build an easily removable wooden platform to go over the 5th wheel hitch to give you a flush floor. Optionally, add some wooden sides. This should give you plenty of functionality for hauling your project materials.

Regards
John

 

[wagoneer]

Towed a 22ft airstream with a 1 ton GMC diesel van for many a mile. Great combo. Diesels like a load.

 

[GrantRobertson]

Thanks for all the help so far. I'm replying on my phone, so I'll put all my responses in one post.

I do not plan to buy a truck or van until after I have chosen the trailer. I would also prefer to get an over-powered truck so I will have more leeway in the future. Yes, diesel is the way to go, both for power and for the possibility of using biodiesel.

When I first buy the trailer, I will either get someone to move it to its first home for me or I will rent a Home Depot truck and move it myself. I will then have a year or so to find an appropriate truck. Considering my budget, it will have to be used. I don't care if it is pretty as long as it can haul the load.

That said, I don't want to end up buying a trailer that can only be pulled by a truck I will never be able to afford or that will use up so much gas between moves that I could have just paid for someone to move the trailer.

When I said I could go slowly and carefully, I didn't mean 20 mph on the freeway. And I didn't mean I would be using an underpowered truck. I just know that some people have complained about the difference in stability between a hitch-mount and a 5er. I can deal with that slightly decreased stability for a once in a blue moon move. I am also pretty darn sure the gub'ment (as idiotic as they can be sometimes) wouldn't have allowed manufacturers to make 30 foot hitch-mount trailers if they were unsafe at minimum highway speeds when pulled by an adequate truck.

My problem is that I still have absolutely no idea of how much some of these trailers weigh. Without that, I can't start making any kind of assessment as to how much truck I should plan to get. I'm not looking for precise values. Just general guestimates. Does an average 30 footer, with all the standard trimmings, usually weigh in at 5,000 pounds? Or is it closer to 10,000? How much would a 20 foot Airstream generally weigh? All I want is some ballparks. If anyone knows of any resources that could give me the info I want, I would appreciate that too. Yes, Iknow Google is my friend. But sometimes google can be a little too friendly and give you way too much random information. I would rather trust some guesses from old hands than a bunch of precise sounding but possibly random or made up numbers from the intertubes. (Yes, Iknow, Cheap RV Living is on the intertubes too.)

Thanks,
Grant

 

[BamaDuke]

A good source of info is the PPL website. The sell RVs on consignment, and list the GVWR ands tag weights for almost all of their offerings. You probably won't buy from them, but the info is good.

In general, the older TTs weigh more than newer TTs. It has only been the last few years (and higher gas prices) that weight became important. Better materials and better insulation have made some of the newer Ultra-Lite RVs just as usable as some of the older high quality RVs. I personally would prefer an older high quality than a newer low quality, all things considered.

Another option you may consider is purchasing an RV you like, and just hiring someone to move it once a year or so. The cost of maintenance, tags, insurance, etc., on a 3/4 or 1 ton truck, just to use it once a year, would pay the cost of a cross-country move every two or three years. Diesels are especially expensive to maintain.

Or do what I did, and buy a motorhome

Bama Duke

 

[WheelEstate USA]

A good avg for 20' is about 3500#. 30' can weigh in at around 7000-9000#. Those being dry weights...towing weight depends on what you load into it.
If you box and put stuff on a scale as you're moving in you might surprise yourself at what you add to the total.
Usually a 30' needs an equalizer hitch.

---

Bama, I think a MoHo is a waste if its going to sit in one place for a year or 2 at a time. They are meant to be driven.

 

[BamaDuke]

Mornin' Bin and the crew,

I would agree with your statement about motorhomes being a waste if allowed to sit too long. But I've seen three recently, one having sat for over 4 years, the other two over a year, and they all fired right up once the battery was replaced. Only one is known to have Sta-bil in the gas. One was a diesel. I was truly gobsmacked

If I were looking, and saw an old motorhome priced good, I wouldn't be too afraid.

Bama

 

[GrantRobertson]

I think a MoHo is a waste if its going to sit in one place for a year or 2 at a time. They are meant to be driven.

I agree about using a motor home (MH). I also don't like the idea of attaching the "engine part" of my total rig to something that can't easily be driven into a regular auto shop for repairs. Repairing the engine of a MH would be a nightmare for me.

I am leaning more and more toward just not buying a truck and paying to have the trailer moved or renting a truck when necessary. I currently have a Volvo 240 wagon which is more than adequate for hauling any of the materials I may need.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Patrick46]

I think a MoHo is a waste if its going to sit in one place for a year or 2 at a time. They are meant to be driven.

I am leaning more and more toward just not buying a truck and paying to have the trailer moved or renting a truck when necessary. I currently have a Volvo 240 wagon which is more than adequate for hauling any of the materials I may need.

Thanks everyone.

Grant....this post makes alot of sense!! ^^^

unless you get to where you are indeed doing alot of moving around, then I'd forgo the expense and hassle of buying and owning a truck. Just rent one or hire someone to move your trailer for you.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Grant, that really sounds like the best start-up plan. Its always possible plans could change by the time you finish the trailer...who knows.
I worked the dickins out of an old Volvo wagon some years ago. I kept wanting that old horse to give up, but it wouldn't lay down. I finally gave it to a guy who's car had been wrecked and bought the truck I needed out on my acres in the desert hills. Tuff car.

When you go look at trailers take pics inside and out. Pics are handy to throw up on your puter to review your choices and in case there's something you might have concerns about that you wanna share here.

Check around, usually people want to get rid of anything that needs repair/remodel. Lowball the heck out of their asking price almost to the point of them paying you to haul it out....in fact, you might find a free one.

Good hunting

BTW...since you'll be doing work on a unit a park might not be your best option. I'd look for someone with acreage/space with electric you can rent cheap.

 

[westriver]

Best info. for specific tow vehicles can be found at places like rv.net or irv2.com in the tow vehicle sections of their forums. Remember that there is a third option here. It's pretty common for ranchers and farmers to use a goose neck hitch instead of a fifth wheel, since most horse trailers and flat bed trailers are set up for it. The head of the fifth wheel hitch on the camper can be converted to a goose neck ball type. The bed of the truck can have a gooseneck ball installed that can be turned upside down and disappear when the truck needs to be used for other work. The entire hitch structure is under the bed and the ball only sticks up when you are using it.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

If you're going to go with hiring a truck for your occasional moves, do a little preliminary research to see if the companies that do that charge differently for pull behind vs 5th wheel.

If there is little difference pricewise, then 5th wheels can go into the potential pool too.

Regards
John

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Quite often you can find one of the old boys in the park you're moving to who will do the tow for you for a reasonable price. If you've got tires aired/ready, everything set to hook up and go expect to pay a min of $100-150 for time and fuel for an easy tow across town.
(check lights jumping off your car battery)

I've done a couple of these tows and have had to work my a$$ of getting a unit clear of junk, bad tires, and any number of problems, including bad brake lights/wiring, and a loose piece of skin nearly flying off.
Don't leave any surprises for your tow guy...just sayin

 

[papas34]

What about storage? My 5th wheel has tons more storage than any of my bumper pulls. The storage under my bedroom is way biger than my truck bed.....just a little limited in height.

 

[GrantRobertson]

What about storage? My 5th wheel has tons more storage than any of my bumper pulls. The storage under my bedroom is way biger than my truck bed.....just a little limited in height.

Do you mean when parked or on the road? I can't store a scooter under the bedroom while on the road. But I can put a scooter in the bed of a truck or inside a van.

However, I can solve that whole conundrum by opening up the backside and turning it into a toy hauler.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

If you think a toy hauler better suits your needs take a look at some of the bunk house type. The issues with a drop gate are solved and many of these have only basic galley, shower/toilet, and seating with fold down bunks. These are pretty plain, but we've seen a few that were really cool DIY projects, including one that was an office with some choice electronics and a custom Harley complimenting the interior design. (wish I'd had a camera)

Or...you could go this route...