Traction, not getting Stuck!

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Ballenxj said:
I love my van, even though I haven't started the build out yet. I've been using it as a work truck for supplies.
Here's the deal, it's mostly unloaded at the moment, and when I drove it across a friends yard during a rainy day, it got stuck.
To me, it got stuck way too easy. I was using even pressure on the throttle, had momentum, yet the rear wheels started spinning till I had no momentum. There I was, Stuck!
The first thing I did after getting it unstuck, was research ways to prevent that in the future.
I looked into getting posi traction installed, $900. to $1000. :(  A set of more aggressive tires for the rear, $450.
Then somebody told me the main problem was that I don't have enough weight over the rear axle. That made sense too. I will incorporate that in my build plans by putting something heavy over the rear axle, like maybe the water supply? Problem with that is as I use the water, it will lose the needed weight.
I'd like to hear some more ideas from you guys on how you would address this problem? Feel free to post your thoughts here. :)

Two ten foot lengths of 12-14 inch old carpeting kept rolled up in back of your van will get you out of a situation like you describe. Un-roll one length in front of each rear tire, sticking as much as possible under the rear tires. Slowly move your van forward and drive out of the mud. Don't forget the carpeting; put them in trash bags 'till you can dry them out. Worked for me many times.
 
driveon said:
Two ten foot lengths of 12-14 inch old carpeting kept rolled up in back of your van will get you out of a situation like you describe. Un-roll one length in front of each rear tire, sticking as much as possible under the rear tires. Slowly move your van forward and drive out of the mud. Don't forget the carpeting; put them in trash bags 'till you can dry them out. Worked for me many times.

I can see that working, but the kind of mud I'm talking about will ruin the carpet fairly quick. I had to use a screwdriver to chisel it off the bottom of my boots. 
Update, I now nave mud and snow tires on all four corners, and am scheduled to have it in the shop Monday to install a Detroit Tru-Trac.
It's only money. Grumble, grumble.
 
the Tru-Trac combined with high traction tires will do the trick 85% of the time. you know we are going to need pics. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
the Tru-Trac combined with high traction tires will do the trick 85% of the time. you know we are going to need pics. highdesertranger


Was looking at a tru-Trac for my Toyota Tundra 2006. TRU-TRAC was cheap at around $500. Not including installation. The description says that you need to spin the tires (get centrifugal motion going) for the differential to lock up. Not sure how you unlock the differential after you are done. Bet installation is $500 more.

1). Get weight on the rest end. Free.
2). Get better tires. $400 plus installation of $100.
3) Get TRU-TRAC installed. $1000
4). Make sure you have a come along tool (winch). And some straps. Maybe get some traction devices to attach around tire like snow chains. $300
5). Don't go off graded roads. Use only mostly flat pavement. That's 95% of the driving. Call AAA when things go bad. $100 a year.
6) know how to ask for help from off road community in the area. Have a ham radio or good cellphone coverage to ask for help. $100



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"5). Don't go off graded roads. Use only mostly flat pavement." that ain't no fun. highdesertranger
 
Goshawk said:
Was looking at a tru-Trac for my Toyota Tundra 2006. TRU-TRAC was cheap at around $500. Not including installation. The description says that you need to spin the tires (get centrifugal motion going) for the differential to lock up. Not sure how you unlock the differential after you are done. Bet installation is $500 more.
Not sure you're looking at the same one as I. The Detroit Tru-Trac is a Torsen design that only allows a limited amount of slippage between the two sides, and comes highly recommended as a no nonsense, low maintenance limited slip.
From this link https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2009/10/Limited-slip-and-Locking-Differentials/2145831.html 
Eaton's Detroit Locker differentials will evenly divide engine torque to each wheel for maximum power at launch and will keep both wheels in constant drive, although the units do have the ability to automatically allow some wheel speed differentiation when required. Like the Truetrac, Detroit Lockers are helical-gear type differentials and can take a lot of abuse. They are recommended for track racing, as well as off-road use. Available for Ford 9-inch as well as GM 10-bolt and 12-bolt applications, Detroit Lockers sell for between $510 and $625.
 
another note,  a Detroit Locker for a GM14 bolt full floating rear end you do not have to buy a carrier.  the carrier is so massive the locker fits right in.  therefore the are cheaper you can pick them up for just over 400 bucks.   I did a build thread on my rear axle last year here it is,  https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-rebuilding-a-GM-14bolt-rear-end .  starting at post number 33 is the Detroit Locker install.  highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
another note,  a Detroit Locker for a GM14 bolt full floating rear end you do not have to buy a carrier.  the carrier is so massive the locker fits right in.  therefore the are cheaper you can pick them up for just over 400 bucks.   https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-rebuilding-a-GM-14bolt-rear-end
I don't remember if I mentioned, mine has a Chrysler 9.25 differential in it. Pretty beefy, but I don't have the confidence to install my own locker, so, into the shop it goes.I will look at your install thread as time permits though, and thanks for linking it.
 
Ballenxj said:
I don't remember if I mentioned, mine has a Chrysler 9.25 differential in it. Pretty beefy, but I don't have the confidence to install my own locker, so, into the shop it goes.I will look at your install thread as time permits though, and thanks for linking it.

Ok so the Mopar 9.25 is a good axle even though its the much maligned C-Clip. I have yet to break one. I've broken a GM 14bolt, and a 9" Ford.
 
steamjam1 said:
Ok so the Mopar 9.25 is a good axle even though its the much maligned C-Clip. I have yet to break one. I've broken a GM 14bolt, and a 9" Ford.

That's good to hear. ;) Have you had the chance to try and break one like you did the GM 14 bolt, and 9" Ford?
 
Ballenxj said:
Coincidentally, your first link goes to a Kelly Kettle demonstration. I happen to have one of those and like it.

 Damn. hate when that happens. I think this is what I wanted to link to. ..Willy.
 
Took my van out in the snow today. It gets by, but not nearly as confidence inspiring as my AWD Subaru. Need to work on weight in the back next.
 
Raven+Squid said:
Oh ya and pucker when the snow is on top of ice.?
That's one condition I will try to avoid. :blush:
 
Ice without the snow is the worst driving I've ever done
 
ArtW said:
Ice without the snow is the worst driving I've ever done


Going down the highway noticing that it's looks pretty icy. Hitting the brakes and nothing happens. That's not a good situation.


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Ballenxj said:
Took my van out in the snow today. It gets by, but not nearly as confidence inspiring as my AWD Subaru. Need to work on weight in the back next.

Did you get that Eaton/Detroit Truetrac installed? Whats you think of it?
 
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