Toyota RV 4cyl

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dogear52

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Anyone living in a Toyota RV 4cyl that has no problems moving about in AZ (mountains/hills)? I'd prefer the V6 but I don't mind going slow on the road with the 4cyl. I might try starting out in the 4 and move up to the 6 in time unless the 4 is not a good idea for AZ. Thanks. Chris
 
well I am not living in one but the Toyota 4cyl in motor homes is a 22r. although a bit small for a mh, it is a great engine and fairly inexpensive to repair as far as foreign engines go. the Toyota v6 not so much, lots of problems, expensive to repair. if it was me I would rebuild a 22r before I swapped in a v6. my 2 cents highdesertranger
 
Thanks highdesertstranger. I guess I can narrow my focus on the 4cyl. From what I have read the 22r has a carb. and 22re is fuel injected. I'll have to compare them. Didn't know that about the V6 troubles.
 
You can look at recalls and alerts on any model car online. That way you can get an idea of the issues with the design. Alldata.com has that I think.
 
Yeah, if you can travel light, you'd be OK. Definitely try for the EFI.
 
Efi electronic fuel injection. With a on board computer it can make the engine run in cold-hot-humid-overload-broken conditions if needed not everyone understands this.
 
Not a motor home but I did have an 89 dually flatbed with the 22re. I took it on a couple of 1000+ mile trips with more than 2000 pounds in the back up some very windy and steep rural passes. I had to go down to first gear at times but it made it just fine. That was with 200k miles on an untouched engine.

22r is the class of engine, sometimes people use that when referring to the fuel injected 22re. You can tell very easy if it's efi by looking under the hood - there will be a big air intake hose leading to a rectangular object with EFI written on it in big letters. Sometimes the front of the engine will have 22R-E written on it but not always. They are very good engines and people keep them forever so finding parts and knowledgeable mechanics should be easy.
 
Have a Toyota tech listen if/when you check it out. Timing chains seem to go on these engines at 150-200K depending on maintenance. I've had to replace a couple at about 170K on my used cars.

I'm a big Toy fan also although I haven't owned one for quite a while. '86 and '87 trucks (2wd,carbs) and '82,'83,'84 Celicas (all EFI). All were at or over 200K. Very good motors.
 
I have owned a 1985 Toyota Dolphin for over 20 years. It has the 22RE (Fuel Injected) engine with about 88,000 miles and automatic transmission. Its the 21 footer, not the 18 foot one. I've traveled all over the West, up and down mountains, in hot and cold weather and I've have never had a problem with it other than replacing a fan belt once. They are very reliable, stout engines and I wouldn't hesitate to go anywhere with mine.

The first year for the fuel injected engine was 1985, before '85 the engine was the 22R and before that, the engine was the 20R. Later, Toyota switched to the V6 about '89 or '90. If you keep your speed down to about 55, maybe 60 sometimes, you can expect to get about 15 or 16 MPG. Much above sixty and the MPG drops quite a bit. In the mountains, I'm often down to about 30 MPH, depending on the steepness of the slope but the little jewel always makes it just fine. If you find a good one, go for it.

John
 
Wow! Much thanks to all you good folks for all the great info and link.....really will help me when I shop around. I just bought a 99 Nissan 4x4 SE V6 last Nov and the plan was to buy a small camper soon before I head West or when I get there, but lately I've been leaning toward more of a simplified mode of travel so might try to find someone who'd like to make a trade at some point. I've driven Nissan/Datsun trucks since '87 and have loved them and I know the Toyotas are legendary as well. I really like the idea of having one unit to drive/live in......pull over and walk right back into the coach and relax. However I would miss the 4x4, but there's always a trade off. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a good deal.
 
Chris.....don't mean to rain on your parade, but drive one before you buy it. All previous posters are correct, a 22r will last you as long as you will ever need it providing regular oil changes etc. Yeah, it will be underpowered. OFW. You in a hurry?? What i didn't like about the couple that i drove, the chassis just is not heavy enough and the damn thing leaned to the point of being scary.....IMHO. In windy conditions, They are a white knuckle E ticket. Not that the wind ever blows in the desert ( I live in Las Vegas ). I'm not saying they arent a decent rig...they are. Hell I've owned 3 Toys and none of them ever gave me a minutes grief. Just drive one in windy conditions and on a curvy road. Because if you travel any distance at all, you will run in to crappy conditions. Best regards, J.D.
 
We've had two of these, both pre-1985. The second one we sold this summer, after 12 years. We took it to Mexico 3 times, and took some trips around the west. Slow, yes; reliable, very. Its nickname was Can-Do, and it lived up to it. Great gas mileage. Made a great guest cabin when we bought a little house in Mexico.

We sold it because we bought a somewhat larger rig. We're planning to live in with our 2 dogs for 4 or more months this winter, and the larger rig, an 82 Tioga, appealed. But I will always love the Can-Dos of this world!
 
The 22re has about 16% more horse power and does accelerate better than the 22R. It will also run better in all conditions. I would definitely skip the V-6's. If the motor begins to run hot, first thing to change is the fan clutch, then consider the radiator. The fan clutch is often forgotten and a failing fan clutch is difficult to identify. It is often the cause of blown head gaskets. Also, timing chains rattling can be silenced sometimes by using a synthetic oil than cleans out the oil port in the chain tensioner. Shop mileage and get the lowest mileage vehicle you can. The drivetrain is the most important as it gets you wear you are going... The suspension, if weak, can be strengthened in a variety of ways. Given the good fuel economy, it be worth it. However, the later model v-8's can also get the same or better MPG.
 
A good way to eliminate timing chain chatter, provided the tensioner isn't shot, use a genuine Toyota oil filter. In 93 I bought a new truck, told a friend at wholesale parts about it. He said the factory filters have a patented check ball that doesn't let the oil drain down from the tensioner when shut down overnight. Used them exclusively and NEVER had chain slap in 207,000 miles. Sold it in 97 and it still ran like new, didn't leak a drop of anything, and had tens of thousands of good miles left in it. The filter costs a couple bucks more than Frams, etc, but timing chains aren't cheap either. Especially if it breaks or slips a gear. Then you have some real problems. Try it out your next oil change. I you still have chain slap it's stretched over the max and needs to be replaced. Best regards, J.D.
 
Been away from the forum for a bit and saw some new replies. More useful info and I really appreciate it! I'm seeing some Toys on AZ Craigs list and I hope a couple will be left when I finally get there late this month. I think I might try one out but will have to figure out how to keep my 4x4 pu with me as well or store it off and on since I'm traveling solo. Might just end up selling it if need be but still thinking about the cargo trailer mode. Thanks again folks.
 
I really do think the stealthy white van and matching utility trailer converted is a smart combination...I got into a Class A cheap and it was originally not intended for traveling cross country so fuel economy was not as much of an issue. I'll tow a 2wd Toyota. The curb weight is about 2,700lbs, just under the limit for most states (3,000lbs). The Toyota Pickup 4WD weighs in at 3,300lbs. Driving a class A gas hog would hurt more if I did not have the Toyota it can easily pull. This is the least expensive set up to get started with that fit my situation well. The Toyota 4WD is rated to tow up to 3,500lbs. It could handle a light weight travel trailer.
 
I agree entirely with with RogueRV2. An older RV towing an economy car is a very good combination if you need more comforts.

Otherwise a van and a cargo trailer i hard to beat.
Bob
 
Basically I just need some room and security for 3 cats and a MH seems to be the ideal set up since I only want to move every 2 weeks about 30 miles each time. My 2 dogs and I will be outside a lot. If I kept my truck I could probably pay someone to drive it to the next campsite so I have back up and 4x4 for off road exploration. So, RogueRV2, what model and year class A did you get and what is the engine size. Towing my pickup might be an option but it's not tow ready as yet.
I like your set up, Bob, and it might be what I evolve to or just go ahead and start with. Trying to imagine how the pets would do.....and would go with a 7x12 v nose with ramp/side door and install several windows. Just wondering how difficult it would be to sell it if I decide on a different rig.
Thanks guys.
 
If at all possible, you want to get a tow bar for the towed vehicle. They come in two parts, the part that goes to the RV--that one is fairly universal and you can probably find used. The other part mounts to the towed car and that one is specific to the vehilce, you probably can't find it used. I had a friend set up his old Ford Festiva to tow and it cost him $600

Hooking up and towing is much easier than you would think!

7x12 would make a very good home, but what are you going to tow it with? I don't know about resale. Cargo trailers hold their value really well so it would all depend on how elaborate your conversion.
Bob
 
Have seen seen interesting ideas about converting a school bus, and towing a small car. Might want to investigate success stories if any for doing that.
 
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