Towing Capacity

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MoonshineCat

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I'm just starting out looking for a travel trailer that's good for winter camping in the Northeast around 20' long. Hopefully a single axel. But my first order of business is looking for a vehicle to tow it. Both of them will need to be cheaper late models. I don't want a gas guzzler 8 cyl. Would a 91-96 Nissan Pathfinder have the tow capacity for something like this? Or an older model Nissan 6cyl pickup truck? Thanks for any info!
 
MoonshineCat said:
I'm just starting out looking for a travel trailer that's good for winter camping in the Northeast around 20' long. Hopefully a single axel. But my first order of business is looking for a vehicle to tow it. Both of them will need to be cheaper late models. I don't want a gas guzzler 8 cyl. Would a 91-96 Nissan Pathfinder have the tow capacity for something like this? Or an older model Nissan 6cyl pickup truck? Thanks for any info!

My 2000 4Runner specification have it rated for 5,000 lbs.  I would not be comfortable pulling that much weight behind it.  It is an 18 year old vehicle with 220K miles on it.  Specified towing weight may destroy a perfectly good older vehicle.  Not sure what the Pathfinder would be.  If the trailer GVW is significant you should consider brakes on the trailer, load distribution, stabilizers, transmission cooler for the Pathfinder, etc. ..... does it feel safe?  You can Google the year, make, and model of most any vehicle and find a thread that will provide specifications for a particular vehicle you are considering.  Keeping the tow vehicle lighter will help reduce your travel costs for fuel and repairs.
 
First, 4 season trailers have more insulation and therefore will weigh more. Probably at least 5,000 lbs loaded which means 3500 lbs and all the
stuff it takes to full time 1500 so 5,000 lbs is just a rough guess which is probably as much as 2,000 lbs low. Second, dual axle trailers have a built in safety factor as well as insuring the weight is distributed better over a longer lenght of frame and usually dual axles are set up to carry more weight than a single axle. Third, Most older V6 engines pulling this kind of weight are most likely going to use as much fuel as a V8 and wear out quicker because of the higher RPMs required to get that load moving. Maybe a small 13' fiberglass trailer or well insulated tear drop could be pulled by an older V6. I have pulled a well insulated home built standup 11' long single axle trailer with a Tacoma no problem, but I also towed an 18' 1991 Ajo dual axle 3 season trailer with a V8 1/2 ton truck and traded for a V8 3/4 ton truck so I could maintain 45 MPH in the mountains. My opinion is I don't know of any light weight single axle 4 season 20' trailers unless you tried to have one custom built which would be expensive and maybe impossible from an engineering stand point that could be towed very well by a V6. Let me know if you find something!
 
You can make a 20' trailer that weighs 3000 pounds.

Maybe even find one OTS but it will be a specialty item.

If you want that big in a normal USian trailer with appliances tanks and all, get a heavy V8.

#1 is safety.

Also fewer TV repairs and greater longevity will pay for **lots** of extra gas.
 
If you get the truck first that will limit you to how big and heavy a trailer you can safely tow.
If you get the trailer first that will limit you to how small, light, and fuel efficient a truck you can get.

Every vehicle that can legally tow has a GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating, how heavy a vehicle can be loaded) and GCWR (gross combined weight rating, how much a vehicle can be loaded and tow combined) supplied from the manufacturer.  You need to look them up for the specific vehicle you are looking at, because they will vary depending on year and model.

A 20 foot trailer will tow better with two axles.

In my experience, a V8 will get better milage than a V6 towing something that big.  A truck heavy enough to safely tow a 20' trailer will probably get better milage empty with a V8; check the vehicle EPA milage ratings.
 
Generally speaking, most 20' travel trailers will be a bit much for most 6 cylinder vehicles. 

There are exceptions, of course.
 
Double axle trailers track much better than single axles.
 
We towed my Prowler home with a GMC Jimmy with a 6 cyl and it was empty, I don't think it would do as well with the trailer loaded.

My friend I plan to camp and boondock with has an F250 Ford 4X4 and I think it will tow the trailer just fine. My buddy moved a 25 ft trailer for his brother with it and didn't have any trouble.

I could have gone with a smaller trailer but got a good deal on the Prowler whereas some of the smaller models are actually higher priced here. My trailer was sold because the former owner only has a small truck and wanted something smaller he could tow with his small truck and he got a small vintage Aristocrat for a good price (Needs work!!)

So there you have it, pro's and cons. Good luck

Cheers
Lois
 
I have had the same idea. My strategy is to look at the trailers that I like, find their weight and then search for a tow vehicle that can tow say 1/4 more in weight than the loaded trailer. That's the idea anyway.
 
I had a Dodge with a 5.2 V8 and it was a bit small for towing even though my trailer is only 3500 pounds wet. The truck I have now is a Dodge with a 5.9 gas motor and it tows much better and gets better mileage.

Also, it's not just about having enough power to go, it's even more important to have enough brakes to stop. There's no way I would tow a 20 foot trailer with a Pathfinder even if it had a large V8 and got 40 mpg unless I could upgrade the brakes and suspension somehow.
 
Yes, that is something I have to think of as well because I'm not sure the electric brakes on the trailer work and if my buddy has the right hook-up for towing my trailer. So both the truck and trailer will have to be checked out before we go anywhere
 
Towing a trailer heavier than the TV is inherently risky, even with a top-notch braking system on the trailer.

But taking things very slow can make a huge difference wrt safety.
 
Remember.... it's not how much weight your vehicle can tow...  it's how much weight your vehicle can safely control and stop.

A little Volkswagen car can tow 20,000 lbs.. (around a parking lot)   
BUT …. can it control and stop the 20,000 lbs in an emergency stop or on a windy day at 60 mph ?

The point I'm trying to make is  … "DO NOT BELIEVE CAR/TRUCK SALESMEN" … 

They will tell you that a 1/2 ton pick-up can pull 15000 lb trailer or a SUV can pull a 10,000 lb trailer..

We all know that's not true..  but the salesman doesn't care he just wants to sell you a vehicle..

[font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif]How much weight a vehicle can carry or tow depends on the [/font][font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif]vehicle's Weight, [/font][font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif]Axles[/font][font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif], Wheel Bearings,[/font][font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif] Brake system, Rims/Wheels, Tires and [/font][font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif]Suspension system.[/font]

[font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif]And it does not matter that the trailer had it's own brakes.. [/font]
[font=Tahoma,Verdana,Arial,Sans-Serif]if the trailer is too heavy it will push forward when the brakes are applied and could jackknife your rig and make you lose control in a split second.. [/font]

Also …  too many folks think that adding "Overload Springs" or "Air Shocks"  can increase the carrying/towing capacity of a vehicle.. WRONG !!

The only thing overload springs and air shocks do is help maintain a level connection with truck and trailer and dampen the "Porpoise effect" .

When tow vehicle and trailer are properly connected there should not be more than a  1"  difference in the height of the trailer's front and rear.

More than 1" difference in height of front and rear of trailer could cause "Wiggle" of the trailer that could throw your entire rig off the road .... and the faster you go the worse the Wiggle becomes.

So how do I tell if my connection is correct ?    

Park your rig on level ground, like a parking lot or a level driveway and ... using a yardstick, 

**  at the FRONT of the trailer, measure from the ground up to the bottom of the trailer frame 
**  then go to the REAR of the trailer and measure from the ground up to the bottom of the trailer frame.

There should not be more than 1" difference.

If more than 1" … re-distribute the load inside the trailer and measure again.. (clothing, ice chest, foods, etc)

Please go with the tow vehicle's recommended towing/carrying weight, not the salesman..

Happy travels,
John

from an article I wrote for an RVing website and magazine many years ago
 
good post John. all true. also don't believe the person trying to sell the trailer they will tell you a Prius can pull that 38ft 3 axle trailer you are looking at. oh and never use air shocks, for any reason. highdesertranger
 
For a better reality check, research the manufacturer tow ratings.

And realize you need to deduct the payload in the TV including passengers.

Or ask your insurance co.

Then when you go over you do it with eyes open, know to take it slow.
 
I don't like to tow more than 1/2 the manufacture's spec where we have mountains and hot deserts especially with older trailers and vehicles as they may have wear and the specs were set with new vehicles.
 
I think some people worry too much.I pulled a 36 ft Elite all over the country back when I was full timing.It probably weighed about 12000 lbs.I pulled it with an 88 Ford f150 with a 302.Some passes I went over at 25 mph.Raton pass into NM was probably the worst.I never drove over 55mph and had no trouble stopping,although a couple of emergency stops flat spotted the trailer tires.OTOH,I had to replace the rear end once and both rear wheel bearings twice.That was probably the best truck I have ever had.I gave it to my son in law when it hit 300,000 miles.
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
If you get the truck first that will limit you to how big and heavy a trailer you can safely tow.
If you get the trailer first that will limit you to how small, light, and fuel efficient a truck you can get.

Every vehicle that can legally tow has a GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating, how heavy a vehicle can be loaded) and GCWR (gross combined weight rating, how much a vehicle can be loaded and tow combined) supplied from the manufacturer.  You need to look them up for the specific vehicle you are looking at, because they will vary depending on year and model.

A 20 foot trailer will tow better with two axles.

In my experience, a V8 will get better milage than a V6 towing something that big.  A truck heavy enough to safely tow a 20' trailer will probably get better milage empty with a V8; check the vehicle EPA milage ratings.
 
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