Somebody pointed out to me that it is my choice to let these crowds ruin my day.<br><br>Had to think about that one for a while. <br> It is far to easy to just get frustrated and go into avoidance mode.<br><br>Today, A new swell arrived, from a storm on the other side of the Pacific. It was cloudy. I got to the ocean a little later than preferable, about 11 am. I Achieved front row parking overlooking the ocean, no problem. It was still cloudy, the coastal marine layer in full effect. My solar panels which are usually putting out 11+ amps on a sunny day at this hour, were making 2.2 amps.<br><br>I missed breakfast, so I fried up some thinly sliced potatoes, onions, carrot, yellow peppers in some olive oil. Once the potatoes were soft, I scrambled in two eggs into the mix, and threw it on two Trader Joe's combo corn/whole wheat tortillias, added some Sriracha, and had an extremely rewarding breakfast.<br><br>Here was my View while cooking and eating:<br>
<br><br>It was about 70 degrees, with a light onshore wind.<br>2 swells were running, a westerly wind swell with an 8 to 9 second period, generated a few hours earlier, not too far offshore. The other swell was the Southern Hemi with a 17 to 18 second period generated a week to 10 days ago off the coast of New Zealand. Both were on the rise.<br><br>The crowd was light. I selected the board which I thought would yield the most amount of fun. It was the board I talk about more in this thread:<br><a href="/post/Keeping-it-Alive-6359957" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">
https://vanlivingforum.com/post/Keeping-it-Alive-6359957<br><br>I</a> take my time stretching on the beach before paddling out. Not an option anymore. Getting old. Grrrrrr.<br><br>By the time I'm done, the crowd is down to 2 and the wind has increased a little, for more chop on the faces. Soon I am out there all by myself, loving being hundreds of yards away from another Human.<br><br>Then the wind lessens, the chop diminishes, and the sets of waves really start increasing in frequency.<br><br>Long story short, I was having almost illegal amounts of fun, and had it all to myself for well over an hour. When a few others did join me, they knew better than to get too close to me, as I was in a rhythm where I was in the prime spot to catch every large set wave, without even having to wait.<br><br> It was a true merry go round and it was getting better and better. <br><br>One wave, one ride in particular is burned into my memory and will be forever. About 7 to 8 feet on the face initially, I caught it late, barely made the drop, barely kept in front of the whitewater doing mach speed. Then the wave backs off into deeper water, and I re position myself, waiting for the wave to feel the bottom again before bottom turning parallel to shore once again. The timing of this is critical. Too early and one outruns the wave, too late and the wave breaks on one's head. I managed to do pretty good in this regard, and the wave started heaving in the shallower water getting ready to throw a barrel.<br><br>I move my back foot back, Grab my outside rail with my right hand, stick my left hand into the wave as a speed brake, and the wave throws out over my head.<br><br>Barrelled. Time seems to slow down in the barrel. All the little details enhanced. The vision unreal, the feeling as close to orgasm as is possible. At one point the exit of the barrell was 12 to 15 feet away from me and I didn't think I was going to make it out, and I took my hand out of the wave and leaned forward and was able to accelerate and somehow squeaked out like a watermelon seed doing a zillion Miles per hour, followed by the spit of the airwithin the barrell being forced out by the compression of the collapsing wave.<br><br>I had two options, either straighten out toward shore, or use the wave as a ramp and launch myself airborn. I chose the latter and at the very crest of the lip, I jumped and soared about 8 feet over the top of the wave in a swan dive, but a launched swan dive where I kept rising for a while. I was airborne, flying for a while. Always fun.<br><br>When I surfaced I heard hooting and hollering coming from a great distance.<br><br>Three surfers in the parking lot who witnessed my ride had their hands over their heads and were screaming at the top of their lungs at my ride, and most everybody else on the beach was now looking at them.<br><br><br><br>I paddled back out for a few more.<br><br>But soon, about 15 guys paddled out at once and I took the next wave in. <br>Everybody paddling out was smiling. <br><br>Nobody more than me.<br>-------<br><br>Many years ago, I used to get irritated when I would see camera footage from a person riding inside the barrel. I loved seeing it, but part of me felt like the general public didn't deserve to see such a view. It takes tremendous skill and dedication to put oneself inside a barrel and be rewarded with this sight and incredible feeling of this view.<br><br>Now with the proliferation of Gopro camera's and no lack of those with a look at me attitude. well........<br><br>Here. This is a bodyboarder at a remote world class surf break, in Southwest Africa.<br>The visuals, while impressive, cannot compare to the feeling of being there.<br><br><a href="
http://vimeo.com/59101379" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">
http://vimeo.com/59101379</a><br><br><br><br>Enjoy.