The lazy man’s cargo trailer conversion
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highdesertranger
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brakes are more important than going. any vehicle can coast downhill with no engine but when you need to stop, you need to stop. stopping is more important than going. THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS TO MUCH BRAKING. live by this advice. highdesertranger
VJG1977
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coolmom42 said:
You are correct about the law. So far with all the furniture, microwave, coffee pot, TV, laptop and air conditioner, I am up to 1402 pounds. If I have to I can transport the ice chest and suit cases in the van to stay under 1500 lbs.
I am not full timing in this, I am treating it like a hotel room on wheels. I'll start out parking in a relatives driveway and plugging into their electric. The only thing a hotel room would have that I will not is a shower. No solar panels, batteries or charge controllers saves a lot of weight. No holding tanks or plumbing simplify things. Just a commode chair and a dish pan with a few jugs of water.
My goal is to be warm when it is cool out. Be cool when it is hot out. Have a comfortable bed. Be able to watch a movie on DVD or a TV show off the air. Make a pot of coffee in the morning and heat items in the microwave. Until I retire in four years, I am limited to long weekends and maybe a 10 day vacation each year but it would always be where electric, WiFi and water is available.
Now that I have a more capable tow vehicle I may add brakes.
There are a lot of single axle enclosed cargo trailers without brakes being sold in Tennessee that weigh over 1300 pounds empty. I wonder how many are moving around with more than 200 pounds of cargo.
VJG1977
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Over this past weekend I installed one of the windows and lets just say I learned one way not to do it. The windows have a radius corner and are 12" x 24". I used the inner trim ring to mark the outline to cut. I thought it would be easier to use a hole saw and cut out the four corners then make four straight cuts to join them. Bad Ideal! I was working from a step stool and working over head, first mistake. The first hole saw I tried put a good shine on the siding but would not cut. The second one would cut if you rocked it side to side. What I did not see until the third hole was that the pilot hole was wallowed out and the hole cut was out side my cut line, second mistake. At that point it was too late to straighten the cuts so the window is about a 1/4 inch out of square.
These windows have an outer frame and an inner trim ring. It is held in place by screwing them together and squeezing the wall between them. The luan interior and the outer skin are so flexible that you need to put a spacer inside the wall. I had been hoping that the upright wall supports were close enough that they would not flex, third mistake. I ran to Lowes and got a piece of one inch square aluminum tubing. Pulled the window and framed it in with the tubing in the wall. When I pulled the window I saw that most of the screws that came with it, had stripped out the frame or the screw threads were gone. Finally just drilled through the outer frame and screwed into the tubing in the wall. I'll paint the screws heads black. I used butyl tape and caulking. Hopefully the next window will go in easier. I'll forget the hole saw and cut it all with the jigsaw from the inside. Also will have the tubing on hand to go in the wall. I'll also buy a better self tapping screw to join the frame and trim ring. This is a stock photo of the window. Maybe this fall I'll replace the crooked window with a bigger one and straighten it up.
It rained very hard last night and I checked the trailer for leaks and was happy to find that it was dry as a bone.
The next big task is installing the air conditioner. I had thought about mounting it through the wall and near the ceiling but have decided to keep it near the floor and completely inside. Again I did not want to cut the upright wall studs and did not like the ideal of a 47 pound unit bouncing down the highway.
I looked at a lot of small campers on line. Many have a window AC installed in a cabinet or under the dinette seat with a louvered vent on the outside. Something like this.
I want an inner sheet metal box with a drain pan and an outer plywood box. My biggest concern is keeping water out.
These windows have an outer frame and an inner trim ring. It is held in place by screwing them together and squeezing the wall between them. The luan interior and the outer skin are so flexible that you need to put a spacer inside the wall. I had been hoping that the upright wall supports were close enough that they would not flex, third mistake. I ran to Lowes and got a piece of one inch square aluminum tubing. Pulled the window and framed it in with the tubing in the wall. When I pulled the window I saw that most of the screws that came with it, had stripped out the frame or the screw threads were gone. Finally just drilled through the outer frame and screwed into the tubing in the wall. I'll paint the screws heads black. I used butyl tape and caulking. Hopefully the next window will go in easier. I'll forget the hole saw and cut it all with the jigsaw from the inside. Also will have the tubing on hand to go in the wall. I'll also buy a better self tapping screw to join the frame and trim ring. This is a stock photo of the window. Maybe this fall I'll replace the crooked window with a bigger one and straighten it up.
It rained very hard last night and I checked the trailer for leaks and was happy to find that it was dry as a bone.
The next big task is installing the air conditioner. I had thought about mounting it through the wall and near the ceiling but have decided to keep it near the floor and completely inside. Again I did not want to cut the upright wall studs and did not like the ideal of a 47 pound unit bouncing down the highway.
I looked at a lot of small campers on line. Many have a window AC installed in a cabinet or under the dinette seat with a louvered vent on the outside. Something like this.
I want an inner sheet metal box with a drain pan and an outer plywood box. My biggest concern is keeping water out.
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Optimistic Paranoid
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VJG1977 said:
I fear that my response to this is going to come across as harsh and judgemental. I apologize if that's the case.
But the truth of the matter is that you've pressed one of my hot buttons.
The presence, or absence, of trailer brakes may make all the difference between stopping in time, or not stopping in time, in a sudden emergency stop situation.
If some five year old kid chasing a ball darts out in front of you suddenly, you may spend the rest of your life regretting that you "saved a few bucks by not buying trailer brakes" and the apparent fact that "lots of other people do too" is going to be mighty cold comfort.
[/soapbox mode off]
VJG1977
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Optimistic Paranoid said:
I am not offended at all. As I said, I am under the limit and will stay so until I do get brakes. Not because I fear not being able to stop but because it is the law.
But!! many states do not require brakes until the gross weight exceeds 3,000 lbs.
http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/
There are only four states that require brakes at 1500 pounds.
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highdesertranger
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ok a couple of tips about installing window.
1. using a hole saw is fine, only you don.t use a drill bit in the saw. drill your hole and put a pilot/guide shaft in the saw. this is just a bare shaft and will not auger out the hole.
2. using a sabre saw is also fine but cut from the outside. tape off the metal so you don't scratch it.
3. cutting the thin aluminum with any kind of saw is not the best method, the saw distorts the metal. best method is to use an nibbler.
4. the best backing for the thin aluminum is plywood if you have flat walls. that's plywood not OSB. if you are insulating with polysio you can use that for the backing. if you are dealing with curved walls use 1x2 wood cut into about 2 inch pieces this will conform to the curvature of the wall. of course don't put a piece of wood right on a body crease.
5. you don't need self tapping screws for the installation. regular screws are fine just use high quality screws. if someone stripped the screws or holes I would send it back, obviously the quality control is not very good. if you don't want to send it back move the ring top to bottom this will put the screw holes to new locations.
one last thought, did you read my post #22. I will repeat, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS TO MUCH BRAKING. trailer brakes are cheap. they will help your tow vehicles brakes last longer and work less no matter how much your trailer weighs. my 2 cents. highdesertranger
1. using a hole saw is fine, only you don.t use a drill bit in the saw. drill your hole and put a pilot/guide shaft in the saw. this is just a bare shaft and will not auger out the hole.
2. using a sabre saw is also fine but cut from the outside. tape off the metal so you don't scratch it.
3. cutting the thin aluminum with any kind of saw is not the best method, the saw distorts the metal. best method is to use an nibbler.
4. the best backing for the thin aluminum is plywood if you have flat walls. that's plywood not OSB. if you are insulating with polysio you can use that for the backing. if you are dealing with curved walls use 1x2 wood cut into about 2 inch pieces this will conform to the curvature of the wall. of course don't put a piece of wood right on a body crease.
5. you don't need self tapping screws for the installation. regular screws are fine just use high quality screws. if someone stripped the screws or holes I would send it back, obviously the quality control is not very good. if you don't want to send it back move the ring top to bottom this will put the screw holes to new locations.
one last thought, did you read my post #22. I will repeat, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS TO MUCH BRAKING. trailer brakes are cheap. they will help your tow vehicles brakes last longer and work less no matter how much your trailer weighs. my 2 cents. highdesertranger
VJG1977
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becida said:
I may be off by a state but it looks like there are only 9 states that require brakes on single axle trailers under 3000 lbs.
In ALASKA, An independent braking system is required when gross weight exceeds 5,000 lbs.
In TEXAS, A trailer or pole trailer is required to have brakes if its gross weight exceeds 4,500 lbs.
In MISSOURI, Independent braking system not required except on trailers coupled by a 5th-wheel and kingpin, and on trailers hauling hazardous materials with a gross weight exceeding 3,000 pounds.
I have been pulling trailers around for over 46 years, more important that brakes on a light trailer is the knowledge needed to tow that trailer in a safe manner. Much like driving in snow, you slow down, don't tailgate, brake before a curve, not overload the trailer and have the load balanced. There is a long list of things I do not worry about. Being able to tow a 1500 lb. trailer is one of them.
Don't get me wrong, brakes are good to have, especially if the trailer weighs near or more than the tow vehicle.
If I lived in any state that did not require brakes on trailers under 3000 lbs I must likely would not add them. Being that I live in Tennessee, I'll add brakes if and when I go over 1500 lbs with my trailer.
Dust-In-the-Wind
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Nice job on the conversion.
I'm sure you're tired of hearing about brakes on your trailer, but here's one more thing to consider.
I bring this up because I've seen this happen firsthand to a friend of mine. For whatever reason, the trailer came off the tow ball. Sure, he had safety chains on but with no "breakaway" brake system, that didn't stop the trailer from ramming his vehicle on a downslope when he reflexively slammed on the brakes when he saw in the rearview what had happened. And then the fun really started when the trailer headed off the shoulder and tried to take the pickup truck with it. Not a pleasant day. Even less pleasant had the trailer headed the other direction into oncoming traffic on the narrow two-lane road.
For your consideration.
I'm sure you're tired of hearing about brakes on your trailer, but here's one more thing to consider.
I bring this up because I've seen this happen firsthand to a friend of mine. For whatever reason, the trailer came off the tow ball. Sure, he had safety chains on but with no "breakaway" brake system, that didn't stop the trailer from ramming his vehicle on a downslope when he reflexively slammed on the brakes when he saw in the rearview what had happened. And then the fun really started when the trailer headed off the shoulder and tried to take the pickup truck with it. Not a pleasant day. Even less pleasant had the trailer headed the other direction into oncoming traffic on the narrow two-lane road.
For your consideration.
Ballenxj
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Well, if nothing else you guys have convinced me that I will install trailer brakes on mine at my earliest convenience.Dust-In-the-Wind said:
Anybody know what the cost might be for installation on a Dexter single axle?
Milk Hauler
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You have limitless online stores to shop. However, find an rv dealer or cargo trailer wholesaler who will install it. Etrailer.com is a good source for affordable trailer brake kits. Amazon is another, however Amazon wont fi d a certified installer for you like Etrailer.Ballenxj said:
I'm fairly handy when it comes to wrenching, but if I was doing a brake retrofit, I'd go to someone who was certified. You will also need a junction box for the trailer brakes, and a good brake controller. I have a digital Prodigy P3, and will never go back to the analog pendulum cheapos. I hit a button for empty braking or loaded.
5 star rating on Amazon, from 750 reviewers. [emoji1]
Sent from my SCH-S968C using Tapatalk
VJG1977
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Finally got back to work on the trailer. Between work, rain and doctor appointments it's been busy. I went with 1" blue foam at R-5 in 4' by 8' sheets. I cut strips to fit between the steel roof members.
Where the cut sheets met I attached a ledge for the sheets to sit on.
A few more cuts to make and the ceiling will be covered. I had planned on painting the ceiling white but I really like the light blue. This and painting the roof with Henry Elastomeric Roof Coating should help to keep it cooler.
A few random items: mounted the TV antenna on a section of mast, Led lantern is sitting on the TV wall mount still in the box, tablet PC, 18 volt cordless drill and indoor/outdoor digital thermometer sitting on microwave. Also got a red dish pan to go with the red microwave.
Where the cut sheets met I attached a ledge for the sheets to sit on.
A few more cuts to make and the ceiling will be covered. I had planned on painting the ceiling white but I really like the light blue. This and painting the roof with Henry Elastomeric Roof Coating should help to keep it cooler.
A few random items: mounted the TV antenna on a section of mast, Led lantern is sitting on the TV wall mount still in the box, tablet PC, 18 volt cordless drill and indoor/outdoor digital thermometer sitting on microwave. Also got a red dish pan to go with the red microwave.
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VJG1977
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Got back to work on the camper. Installed the air conditioner. That took a lot longer than I had anticipated. On a good day I'm good for about two hours of real work and after that I start making mistakes and get sloppy. Making that first cut in the wall was nerve racking. Measured 3 times and drilled some holes near the middle of the opening. Cut out a 15 x 16 hole. Installed the louvered vent outside.
Inside I warped the aluminium skin around the opening. I used a aluminium cookie sheet for a drip pan. Cut one end off and notched it to stick out of the bottom louver.
Everything that wasn't metal got a coat of silicon.
The air conditioner sets in the drip pan and it attached to the wall and floor with L brackets. Built a box with 1" foam. The top 4" of the vent lets air into the top and sides of the AC and the bottom 12" is the air out.
Later I will cover the foam with plywood. I just ran out of steam.
I moved one of the four draw storage units to the van and added a Haier 3.3 cubic foot refrigerator. This refrigerator is so quiet, you can not hear it running.
Added 32" flat screen, DVD player and outside antenna. Mounted one mast section to the A frame tongue. Mounted the digital antenna to another section. Traveling I'll remove the top section with the antenna and carry in the trailer. Tried it out and got ten stations without rotating the antenna.
My wife's bed is a patio chase lounge with a memory foam topper.
We leave tomorrow for our first test run. Five days near Knoxville parked in my step son's driveway.
Inside I warped the aluminium skin around the opening. I used a aluminium cookie sheet for a drip pan. Cut one end off and notched it to stick out of the bottom louver.
Everything that wasn't metal got a coat of silicon.
The air conditioner sets in the drip pan and it attached to the wall and floor with L brackets. Built a box with 1" foam. The top 4" of the vent lets air into the top and sides of the AC and the bottom 12" is the air out.
Later I will cover the foam with plywood. I just ran out of steam.
I moved one of the four draw storage units to the van and added a Haier 3.3 cubic foot refrigerator. This refrigerator is so quiet, you can not hear it running.
Added 32" flat screen, DVD player and outside antenna. Mounted one mast section to the A frame tongue. Mounted the digital antenna to another section. Traveling I'll remove the top section with the antenna and carry in the trailer. Tried it out and got ten stations without rotating the antenna.
My wife's bed is a patio chase lounge with a memory foam topper.
We leave tomorrow for our first test run. Five days near Knoxville parked in my step son's driveway.
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travlinman and wife
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VJ1977 I like your work on the ac but I have a suggestion. I did the same thing and had problem with the ac freezing up. warm air rises and cold air falls. I had to make a deflector to direct the air up to keep my ac from freezing up. And by the way are you from middle tn
VJG1977
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travlinman said:
Hi Travlinman, Could you post a picture of your AC with the deflector? Yes, I am in Clarksville TN. I got to Ft. Campbell in 1977 and when I got out of the army in 1984 I figured Clarksville was as good as any place.
