Homesteaders Cargo Conversion

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Lodi

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Jan 14, 2020
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Hey all, this is my first real post here. Thought I'd share my bug out trailer conversion with everyone. 

I bought a 7x14 2019 Mirage brand enclosed trailer in July of 2019. Paid 4k total after everything. I put about 1500-2000 into it. Hard to tell after all the screws, extra trips for wire and connectors etc etc. Things can add up I know, but overall the build and price was very easy to manage for a first time RV'er and camper owner. I suspect it will last me 20 years or so if I dont upgrade before then. 

I kept things simple and to the point, and found a good balance between comforts of home, and simplicity/cost efficiency.  

Dimmer switches, LED lights in and out. 
Big Buddy Heater
4 GC2 Golf car batteries. 
50 amp name brand converter. 
2000w inverter
2000w generator
30amp solar charger wired to my trucks alternator. (Battery bank charges as I drive down the road)
Zero plumbing or tanks (no winterizing or dumpstations)
Thetford porta potti. Curtain for privacy. 
Plenty of cabinet and storage space for my wife and I. 
Beds are 30" wide custom made, half lux foam and half natural latex. 
Beds lift up and are all storage underneath. Spare tire, generator, heater, water, extra propane, chairs, fire grill and others stored under the beds. 
12v sockets throughout trailer, as well as 120v plugs. Plugs can be powered by shore power or inverter. 
12v TV 
Maxxair fan with the nice low profile rain proof cover.
Real mini fridge (because I had it already, waiting to buy a quality 12v fridge/freezer. For now I like how the fridge is a good counter height. And I have a counter top velcro'd on. 
Single burner stove
Fire extinguishers
Magnet bug screens for both doors
Stands for the ramp so it acts as an elevated deck


Dry  weight is 1500 pounds. I figure I'm at around 2200 fully loaded, still need to hit a scale to know for sure. Towing with a 1500 silverado 5.3L getting 10mpg on flat ground. I do not like to be towing at anywhere close to my capacity, so this lightweight trailer, coupled with electronic brakes and a good brake controller has me feeling pretty comfortable towing it. No sway unless an ambulance passes me going 20mph faster, and even then it's barely noticeable.  I put a lot of effort into weight distribution throughout trailer, and each side of trailer is within 20lbs of the other. I dont think I need to worry about weight distribution hitches or anything, but a final weigh in and knowing tongue weight will confirm this. If it's not needed, I'd rather have the mobility than lose the ability to go thriugh a wash or make a tight turn. We like to be in the boonies. 

Now for the guts:
I left the half inch plywood on the walls at the manufacturer's recommendation.  Over top of that I have half inch of polyiso and 1/4" lauan which is stained a pecan color. That half inch of plywood underneath makes for easy installation and hanging of anything you want later on. Double the insulation on the ceiling. That 1" air gap between the inside of the skin and the plywood will help a lot with air flow behind the insulation, as moisture will inevitably be a problem. The only real way to be moisture free is to have it spray foamed, and I just didnt have that kind of money to spend.

Everything is glued together, and I siliconed the seams and corners, as well as went completely crazy with 20 cans of expanding foam. Now the whole structure feels solid and very well sealed. I need to add some floor vents to remedy how air tight it is. I used a combination of weather stripping and neoprene pipe wrap to solve the last condensation issue around the metal frames of doors. 

As far as resiliency goes, I have an extra portable 800w inverter for either the truck side or camper if the cobra brand 2000w inverter that's in there takes a crap. I have a smaller 8amp battery charger that I can run off the 800w inverter if the main 50amp converter/charger dies or malfunctions. So I have 3 ways to charge batteries. I also have a portable battery jumper that can be topped off or charged up by the trailer battery bank, it also acts as a portable 12v socket. I have a 12v compressor, and backup 12v compressor, as well as a full size home compressor with 25' air hose (my go to if I have an emergency flat, or to blow out the trailer of dust or blow off shoes or clothes). A scissor jack and a bottle jack, and I'm thinking of bringing a floor jack on longer trips. I have backup solar lights and battery powered lanterns. A dozen ways to charge phones or devices. Come along, tow straps, rope and plenty of straps and tethers. 

Next week 1/24/20 we are leaving Mid Michigan and making our way down to texas, through Quartzite, and onto vegas for a couple days, before spending a week in southeastern California. Not our first long trip, but the first long trip towing a trailer and boondocking almost the whole way. 

It was really fun to build, I had a blast. My wife loves it, and i can also use it for the farm and work, where my truck doesnt have the room. 

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask, I'm posting this for inspiration and to help others.
 
Pictures arent showing up. Would love to show it off but I'm not doing something right here. Maybe try from desktop?
 
There we go... for 31 I am a little tech illiterate it seems.
 

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Looks really nice, I'd be proud to have that rig boondocking at my place anytime...if you get thru the Texas Panhandle on your way west, shoot me a PM.
 
I'll be going through the Amarillo area probably next sunday or monday. I'm leaving michigan the 24th and want to get south as quickly as possible.
 
Nice job inside.  You may want to double check the cable wiring on your 4 GC2 batteries, it appears they are not wired for maximum battery life.  A better picture would help.

I'm sure you will enjoy camping in that trailer.
 
The electrical engineer that designed the first hybrid engine has personally set this battery bank up, and inspected my trailer to confirm its built to his strict specifications. I know that sounds ridiculous but its 100% true. Works like a charm.
 
looks good but I have to agree with 66788. it appears to me that your battery bank is wired incorrectly. yes the way it is will work as you will get 12volts, however it doesn't seem to be a balanced system, that will get you the longest trouble free life. a better picture would clear this up. highdesertranger
 
Nice!! I asked on the other thread you replied to about how you insulated and sheeted over
the original plywood walls. I am in the same boat if I want to put insulation in my 7 x 12.
Also, How did you route the wiring for the 120 v plugs shown in the pics? Is it in the "new" insulation
or in the old wall?

I like this build a lot! T
 
highdesertranger said:
looks good but I have to agree with 66788.  it appears to me that your battery bank is wired incorrectly.  yes the way it is will work as you will get 12volts,  however it doesn't seem to be a balanced system,  that will get you the longest trouble free life. a better picture would clear this up.  highdesertranger

If you click the picture you can zoom in and see the cables. Can you explain how you think it should be wired up? How about both of you explain it, then we can clear up any issues while the post is fresh and new.

And please, explain in DETAIL why this is imbalanced, and why it would be better if I did it a different way. I will run this by Mr Harris and see what he says. He did warn me not to change anything without talking to him first, since there are a lot of different views when it comes to batteries. The system is set up to his specs, and hes a lifelong electrical engineer for Chrysler.
 
trailer-t said:
Nice!!  I asked on the other thread you replied to about how you insulated and sheeted over
the original plywood walls. I am in the same boat if I want to put insulation in my 7 x 12.
Also,  How did you route the wiring for the 120 v plugs shown in the pics? Is it in the "new" insulation
or in the old wall?

I like this build a lot!  T


Hey thanks! 


I ran the wiring in a channel in the original half inch of plywood that I then covered up with insulation. So everything besides what you see coming from the batteries is hidden back behind everything. 

I have 2 120v circuits, and 8 12v circuits. 10g wire for the 12v. 8g wire for the 12v in back of trailer, furthest from the box.
 
It appears to be wired balanced to me.

4sixvoltbatteries.jpg

Nice looking trailer.
 

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Out-of-balance...…………..

In the example shown...….the NEGATIVE wire should be shown pointing DOWN

Pull the POSITIVE from one set...…...NEGATIVE from the opposite set.....Power flows thru all ……...
 
the Doug got it.

the negative should be at one end and the positive at the other. the way it is now the 2 batteries on the right are going to provide most of the power and the ones on the left hardly any. same with the charging the ones on the right are going to take the majority of the charging. take the charge and discharge cables off the switch and move them to the end battery on the opposite end of the string then the negative.

oh yes I know how to blow up the pic, but it is still hard to see exactly what's going on there.

highdesertranger
 
If we are gonna get picky, I don't usually use the the secondary bolt on terminals as I have had better current flow out of the lug terminals using military clamps with eye lugs. I actually melted one of the secondary terminals when I used it under a high load on an Optima battery.
 
x2 military terminals all the way. I use the stud terminal for my temp sensor. are we being picky? highdesertranger
 
Nah not really but to someone new to wiring it can seem that way! At least they didn't burn anything up and it worked! It was really a good idea to get some help being new to it. Our suggestions are only meant to make your system work as well as possible and we all learn from each other after many mistakes. It is work but you just have to keep asking questions and changing it till you make it the best you can.
 
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