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I should have been more specific, I meant boat deck paint. it's tough stuff. highdesertranger
 
rvpopeye said:
What do ya got laying around?

got a jug of old transmission fluid and some moss killer which would actually work pretty good

i was asking the old let it breath or seal it up? after hitting a few boat forums i'll seal it up with... let me think...
wood sealer
 
Sorry about the photos, Gary. Thanks for resurrecting the thread and your work.
 
call it cheap,frugal,not wanting to waste a good product but giant windows left me with a nice ball of butyl

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some kneading,stretching and roller pin
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put it in the freezer and cut with scissors
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For the floor I'm seriously considering pulling the carpet in my trailer and painting it with deck paint with silica sand added for traction, especially on the ramp door. That is what crave did on his trailer and it's holding up really well even to wheel chair traffic.
 
yep if you are going to paint your floor boat deck paint is the way to go. highdesertranger
 
i have access to i think enough 1/8 laminate but the slip factor is something you have to think about

a couple years ago i walked in the back door with a load of firewood and snow on my shoes and the next thing i know i was on my back gasping for air

the bumper step is painted and the first step is linoleum and last winter with snow they were very slippery,i'll get some of that stick on tracktion stuff for them

maybe laminate with a throw/runner rug
 
Gary, is this a Chevy and is there anything you dont like about it?
 
XFILE36 said:
Gary, is this a Chevy and is there anything you dont like about it?

i specifically targeted a chevy because of the universal parts,if you look in the old thread you will see i bought a bunch of engine part,outside of the head gaskets those part will fit any chevy small block for a 40 year period

if i need a motor any chevy small block will bolt right in,a 250 or 292 straight six will bolt right in,all the transmissions will bolt right on to any of the engines

also add that the chevy small block has the cheapest easiest to find parts of any engine ever made
 
actually in the larger vehicles like vans and trucks any engine or transmission will bolt right in, straight six, V-6, V-8, Diesel whatever. same with the trans. a note when interchanging some of the newer trans to older engines a couple special parts are needed. but with that said a 2017 Chevy engine and trans will bolt right into a 1950 circa Chevy. highdesertranger
 
While this is true, you had better get all the brain and electronic controls that are needed for them to operate properly.
As an aside, my brother and I installed a 350 HP Chevy 350 with automatic in a 1967 English Taxi Cab once upon a time. Also drilled the axles on a GM 12 bolt differential for that car so the new studs would fit the stock wheels. It was meant to be a sleeper. :p
I kind of wish we kept the 4 cylinder Perkins diesel that came out of that car.
 
the ls is a common swap so many aftermarket companies sell stand alone ecu and wiring harness but they cost upwards of $1000
but the performance and efficiency of the ls is very tempting
 
yep the performance and efficiency gains are great but the reliability and simplicity go down the drain. highdesertranger
 
And then there was the time I dropped a 500 cu in caddy motor into. 3/4 ton 4x4 Chevy pu. It would pass anything but a gas station.
 
o.k. on the boat forum they keep saying thompson's water seal  so i got a quart of it to seal the floor up,cleaned up the floor,removed the seat belt in the house and the went after the linoleum,it's hot out so it came up pretty easy,get to the steps and

5O2GMN2.jpg

it's wet,rotten and almost an inch out of square

so out comes the door,take out the side screws go up on the ladder and there are no top screws the door frame is about 1/4" higher then the the house,it.s not the original door
so i spend about an hour scraping silicon,then cut the bottom tab off the door so now there is no bottom screws but lowered the door enough for top screws
replaced the rotten step and about 10" up the sides
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and of course painted it freakin white

being frugal left me with exactly enough,not an inch to spare butyl tape to do the job

the plastic trim disintegrated upon contact
 
monies

home depot just broke me
didnt have the cheaper plywood so i had to go birch and of course i got a sheet of each extra and 10 extra feet of 1x12 planning on a screw up

6 sheets 1/2
2 sheets 1/4
32 feet 1x12 pine/fir?
screws
20 simpson a21 90's
piano hinge
wood glue
a gallon of poly
stain
$420
 
You've got wood ! :p
Now do something with it !
 
first hiccup,in the sun you can clearly see that the plywood is made from 6" layers so solid horizontal line when polyed,from my floor to roof is about 5'8" and every thing is set up to go vertical,thought about it and there is no out,i will have vertical lines when aesthetically you would want horizontal
 
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