The Cube, U-Haul to RV camper conversion

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Matlock

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Messages
827
Reaction score
45
2006 GMC Savana 3500 Cut Away Box Van.

It's time I put together some photo's and document the method to my madness, (modifications).

All comments welcome.
The back story;
I purchased the truck in August of 2014 after a polite conversation with the U-Haul folks. I had my mechanic check things out and learned that with 94K on the truck it needed new brakes all around (4 wheel disc's) and the transmission needed a rebuilt /swap. (Jasper rebuilds Engines and Transmissions, are nationwide and warranty their rebuilds for 100K or 3 years).  All told I wanted about $4500 off asking price because of the problems and U-Haul finally agreed to the deal.
The only surprise I've had is the Catalytic converter had a hole in it and needed replaced and a small water leak from a roof bolt. The converter is fixed but I think water sometimes runs uphill.... donno?
I've got about 900 miles on the new to me tranny.  After 1000 they want me to bring it in for new fluid and filter to satisfy the warranty.

The truck continues to put a smile on my face driving down the road. For a one ton it handles great, rides smooth and is easy to maneuver in traffic. The 139" wheel base is about the same as a full size pickup. This gets better to drive the more weight I have. FYI the overall height is 9'. Inside the box measures 74" tall x 79" wide'x10' long. I'm 6' so after the insulation and ceiling boards I'll still be able to stand up straight. This is important to me cause my knees don't work as well as they once did. The rear door is currently a garage type roll up door. I'm still undecided what to do with that. I'd leave it but the tracks are in the way for wall/ceiling mounting of any cabinets.

My first objective was to cut an access hole from the cab into the truck box. I drilled 4 holes, one in each corner so I could cut from inside the box and the bottom cut from inside the cab. There is a 3/8" height difference from the cab to the box and I didn't want to cut into the box flooring with my sawzall.

10x6SM.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 10x6SM.jpg
    10x6SM.jpg
    108.6 KB · Views: 171
Second mod was the install of my Dash Camera and a Back-up Camera/Monitor. The dash cam uses a suction cup and sticks where a rear view would be. The rear cam monitor was mounted onto the headliner and wiring for both was routed under the headliner back to the box and down along the newly cut rear access doorway into a 3-way 12v outlet. The 3 way outlet has either a cig plug or a fused hardwire connection. I'll hardwire eventually.

Backup cam install.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Backup cam install.jpg
    Backup cam install.jpg
    128.6 KB · Views: 86
Here's the camera mounted below the 3rd brake light.
Camera angle 3.jpg
Camera mount is straight forward, It uses a wire to the backup lights to trigger the cam/monitor. Or you can power it up anytime with a button on the monitor or the remote control. There is available cable connections for 2 additional cameras. If I had a 40' RV it might be nice but the door mirrors work fine on this short box. There's also a microphone on the camera and a speaker on the monitor. I didn't know this when I bought the system but it's actually nice to hear someone talking when I'm parked at the store. And I am sure it will give me peace of mind when boon-docking in town.
 

Attachments

  • Camera angle 3.jpg
    Camera angle 3.jpg
    99.1 KB · Views: 58
Today I started installing the insulation. Flat walls make rigid foam an easy quick process.
Left side wall insulation1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Left side wall insulation1.jpg
    Left side wall insulation1.jpg
    111.9 KB · Views: 98
Matlock said:
2006 GMC Savana 3500 Cut Away Box Van.
 The rear door is currently a garage type roll up door. I'm still undecided what to do with that. I'd leave it but the tracks are in the way for wall/ceiling mounting of any cabinets.
If possible I would remove the roll up  door and build a wall with a door and window. The roll up door will get old after a while rolling it up and down to get in and out.
 
Spirituallifetime said:
If possible I would remove the roll up  door and build a wall with a door and window.
It's handy for doing the build, but an RV door framed in is probably best.
The opening is only 69" high. I see used or new surplus doors offered on line that are 72" and I guess it's not that tuff to cut them down and re-seal the cut edge.
 
Any chance you kept mpg records before the conversion? I'd like to see how much the increased weight affects your mpg.
 
concretebox said:
Any chance you kept mpg records before the conversion? I'd like to see how much the increased weight affects your mpg.
No I did not. All my mileage has been local in mostly stop and go traffic picking materials for the conversion.
I do know when I bought this truck that it had close to zero aerodynamics and with a gas engine to boot the MPG's are gonna be less than great.
 
There are places where RVs go to die. These are often great resources for doors and windows.
 
LoupGarou said:
There are places where RVs go to die. These are often great resources for doors and windows.

In this part of the rust belt those places range from salvage yards to back yards.
So far everything I've looked at required a torch to remove and all new hinges and locks. Well, for a buck-fifty I'm gonna spring for a new door. Now windows are another story but I haven't decided if I really want to put windows in the side of this Cube. Looks sorta stealthy from the side.
Cube Van Conversion.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Cube Van Conversion.jpg
    Cube Van Conversion.jpg
    327.7 KB · Views: 37
Today I worked a bit more on finishing up the wall insulation and started to install the stained 1X planking.
The two table looking things on either side of the door are 2/3 of my bed. Daytime will be seating.
Cube 3500.jpgCube Van Interior.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Cube 3500.jpg
    Cube 3500.jpg
    392.5 KB · Views: 84
  • Cube Van Interior.jpg
    Cube Van Interior.jpg
    378.9 KB · Views: 97
New Door.jpg

Picked up my new door for the back of the Cube.
I want to center it in the opening when I remove the roll-up door.
I am looking for a plastic covering for the exposed back wall that will support and close in the rear of the truck.
I'll use 5/8 exterior plywood on each side but need to cover the ply with something white.
HD has FRP 4x8 sheets and its reasonable. But I'm concerned about UV and having it turn yellow.
Anyone have a recommendation?
 

Attachments

  • New Door.jpg
    New Door.jpg
    327.8 KB · Views: 41
Matlock said:
Picked up my new door for the back of the Cube.
I want to center it in the opening when I remove the roll-up door.
I am looking for a plastic covering for the exposed back wall that will support and close in the rear of the truck.
I'll use 5/8 exterior plywood on each side but need to cover the ply with something white.
HD has FRP 4x8 sheets and its reasonable. But I'm concerned about UV and having it turn yellow.
Anyone have a recommendation?


One of the RV supply places I was exploring on line had sheets of the fiberglass panels used on the RVs. Sorry I can't figure out which one, I didn't bookmark the page because I'd never need it.

Try one of your local RV dealers or better yet, find an RV in the scrap yard and get a couple of panels from there.
 
I did talk to two local dealers. Cheapest one wanted $180 a sheet plus delivery of an additional $40 per. Sorta discouraging for anyone that's able to work with tools and has a shop to work in. They pushed hard trying to sell me a new RV though.
Unfortunately in northern Ohio there are no RV/Camper/Motorhome scrapyards. If I wanted to drive south or west a couple hundred miles I could find a few, but the contacts on-line web-site won't guarantee they will have stuff when I arrive even if I gave them a paypal down payment. (Not that I'd do that)
 
Almost There said:
One of the RV supply places I was exploring on line had sheets of the fiberglass panels used on the RVs. Sorry I can't figure out which one, I didn't bookmark the page because I'd never need it.

Try one of your local RV dealers or better yet, find an RV in the scrap yard and get a couple of panels from there.

If you have a fast signs franchise in your city, check with them. I needed to fill some holes in a wall in a factory we took some machinery out of and needed a sheet of alumacore. They had it. It's not cheap, but sign companies usually stock it in 4x8 and 5x10 sheets. If they have it, you save the shipping costs.

You may need to buy a "sign" to get them to sell it to you, but the Fastsigns in Syracuse was very helpful when I needed some.
 
I used a frp panel from Home Depot to cover a replacement over cab board on my old four wheel pop up camper. It didn't get much sun, as it was on the bottom side, but it held up there fine all the way up to when I sold it - no yellowing at all that I could see. It was probably 2-3 years old at that time.
 
ZoNiE, There are a bunch of FastSigns within a short drive for me. I'll call them in the morning and see what they offer.
masterplumber, That helps for sure. I know the FRP at Home Depot is $18 a 4x8 sheet around here.

I've got a couple feelers out for UV resistant paint on a marina forum. I may just go with the HD stuff and paint over it if the paint is cheap.
 
Top