Step van roof platform idea

[Bud Smiley]

Howdy folks, I've got a 1996 Grumman Olson step van on a Chevy P30 chassis with a Detroit Diesel 6.5L engine. It used to be a Mac Tools truck and only has 90k miles on it. I'll get around to posting an intro thread at some point but I don't have any pictures of my van available. What I do have is an idea that I need help with:

I want to put a big platform up on the roof. I envision being able to sit up there with a couple people on folding chairs. Maybe sleep up there on nice nights. 

What would be the best way to build brackets to attach it? Does anything like this already exist? Should they be bolted into the wall supports or should I use the rain gutters? The step van is 100% aluminum and is well built so I don't think it will have a problem supporting the weight as long as I can figure out a good way to attach it.

For the platform itself, I'm thinking of a frame made out of square tubing and the floor out of steel mesh. That seems like a good mix of light weight and longevity. I'm pretty new to welding and this seems like a good sort of project to get my feet wet.

I've got an AC unit sticking out of the roof that I'll build around. I mention that because it means I won't be increasing the overall height of my vehicle.

Anybody with experience using rooftop platforms for more than just storing gear?

 

[eDJ_]

My father fabricated something just like that when I was a kid.   It was built of the roof of his first Ford Econoline Van to carry a small aluminum fishing boat.   There were no High Top's back then but the boat did cover a bunch of freight he carried up there. 

He used bungee cords to hold down the cargo inserting the hook ends into the metal mesh. 

Then the boat was pushed up over the top and clamps held it to the rack so it wouldn't move.

He had a duffle bag he put the little 8hp outboard motor in to carry inside the Van.

He thought it to be solid as he had 4 legs on both sides which located just above the side ribs of the
walls of the Van.  The feet that were bolted directly to the roof metal were shaped to where they matched
the contour and had rubber gasket material between the roof surface and the roof rack.   He never chose to climb  up on the roof.

As Dad said,  it's a lot easier to get up there than it is to get back down (safely).

 

[flying kurbmaster]

if it was me I would have it hooked into the gutters like a roof rack, the gutters on that thing are very strong, if you decide that it is not being used you can pull it off, easily. The aluminum on the roof of my Kurbmaster is 1/4 or less of the thickness of the walls, so you have to be a bit careful, I sometimes sit on my roof but not that often, and not for too long, I seem to always need something and when I go down and get it I don't go back up. I could see it being cool at some kind of event with shade umbrellas if you happen to be parked close enough to see something. It will add weight and poor aerodynamics' so you will loose some fuel economy. When I first had my Kurbmaster I installed rails on the roof, I used handicap stainless steel L shower bars on the rear corners and straight shower bars along the sides,. At the time I thought that I would tie stuff to it or if I ever slept up there that it would hold me up if I rolled too close to the edge or stop a chair from slipping off the roof. I got caught up in aerodynamics and wanting to keep my mpg as high as I could so I removed them. The idea came from boats with grab rails along the cabin or pulpits and pushpits. it looked cool but in reality was impractical due to the lack of strength from the rivets in the thin aluminum, and I decided that I didn't want to tie stuff to my roof and if I sit up there I just have to sit in the middle.

 

[flying kurbmaster]

here is what it looked liked, the ladder is also made of salvaged stainless steel towel racks

 

[Bud Smiley]

Good things to think about.

I priced gutter mount brackets... holy hell they are expensive. The nice ones looked like $125/pair. I think I'll head to the junkyard and see what I can pull off some work vans.

I've got a big lift gate that gets up to about 4' from the roof and I'm adding a marine ladder for ease of access. I'll put some sort of low railing around it too, thanks for mentioning that flying kurbmaster.

eDJ_, I was actually thinking about adding a trailer winch and using the roof to transport my 14' aluminum boat. Your dad had a good idea.

 

[grummy]

What is your trucks interior height ? If you have an aluminum roofed truck, you can walk on it, but it is rather spongy.  If you put lawn chairs up there, the legs are sure to put dents in it, maybe even pop thru.

If you have an extended height truck and you are willing to give up an inch and a half, I would do everything in my power to NOT put any additional platform on top, but just enhance what is there. Either way you go, this costs you money, so explore this:

Bond and support under the existing beams with additional aluminum beams in the form of tubing (or you probably could use Ash wood on edge). It would not take much to make the roof a whole lot stiffer by doing so, as long as the ends of the tubing are also well supported on a vertical structure. You might design your interior such that you have "open beams"........ It could be an architectural feature.

With the beams reinforced, I would locate 1/8" - 3/16" aluminum sheets (one BIG sheet will be expensive.... 2' wide and as long as the truck might be a whole lot more affordable) and bond them to the existing roof panels such that the material bridges across your new beams. You could find aluminum with a non-slip pattern in it, or take the truck to a shop who can spray a good quality non-slip bed liner up there.

I think if you did the weight math as well as the money math, it would be well worth it to just be able to walk on the existing roof platform with the above enhancements. No cumbersome look, no extra wind resistance and probably a whole lot less weight by the time you are done. These trucks when loaded get top heavy enough, so why add more ?

If you only had a 6' interior height, I might attempt to put 1" aluminum tubing across on top of the existing beams, then fill the voids with a rigid foam panel... put 3/16" aluminum over the top.

Use great care with any steel structure, isolating it from the aluminum with some sort of plastic or vinyl barrier. It does not take long for the two metals to corrode between, and always use stainless or full aluminum fasteners.

 

[Bud Smiley]

Grummy, it looks like I've got the same interior height as yours. I'm a little over six feet so I'd like to keep as much ceiling height as possible. Right now it's all covered with pegboard and elastic which is actually pretty convenient and I'd like to keep it. That said, I like the idea of keeping it looking stock.

On a side note, I picked up two rolls of LED strip lights after seeing them on your project page. I really, really like what you've done with your step van.

I'll keep an eye out to prevent galvanic corrosion.

I'm thinking I'll look for cheap used lumber racks and hack them up for the materials.

 

[grummy]

I'm right at 6 foot. I used 3/4" thick pine strips lengthwise under the existing aluminum beams, insulated, then screwed 1/4" Luan to the pine. At my height, I would not hesitate to burn up the 1.5" next time as the interior height is still very airy. For me, however, I think it is one of my bigger mistakes to not do it. The extra 3/4" of insulation would have been much appreciated.

Of course, if your say, 6'4, then I can see where every little bit matters. Still, do not skimp on the insulation !

My truck has transformed massively this year, and I have used it more than ever. I covered the walls with a neutral microfibre, completed some real cushions for the seating area, added oak upper and lower cabinets on both sides of the truck, installed some nice counter tops and reworked the bed. More Led's, larger, nicer sink and more crown moulding.

That slide out bed concept made it too hard to access the gear under it and it was only 48" wide pulled out. I converted the back to be more traditional with a four person dinette area so I and the wife could sit down and face each other. The table drops down to create a 54" wide bed we sleep cross truck on, but if it's still two stinky guy's going to a swap meet, I still retain 24" sleeping areas along each wall. It really gets tight if one thinks of a 14' truck to be more than a two up machine, but there is the floor to sleep on if required.

And I buckled down and made all my awning tubes slide into each other, so now there is a tray that holds it all under the driver side seat. It slides out the back for access. Being kind of a junk collector and having a passion for strange items, I decorate with a Steampunk theme. I have a lot of brass and copper detail being applied but tastefully. The trick is not allowing the theme to be just theme. I still have to camp in it, so everything must serve a purpose and not just be in the way.

I've got tons more to do. TONS I tell ya !! Just need warm weather again to get back at it. I should find some time to get my site pages updated.

 

[Badwolf42]

I've been toying with the idea of a "Breadtruck" type deal too. Would love to keep the outside nondescript for urban boon-docking and the inside loaded with home sweet home features. Are you aware of any restrictions for this type of van/truck? Is it a van or a truck? Do I need a special drivers licence for it? Is it allowed on highways and such? Since I've started noticing them, I cant say I've seen one on the interstate.

 

[Bud Smiley]

I've been toying with the idea of a "Breadtruck" type deal too. Would love to keep the outside nondescript for urban boon-docking and the inside loaded with home sweet home features. Are you aware of any restrictions for this type of van/truck? Is it a van or a truck? Do I need a special drivers licence for it? Is it allowed on highways and such? Since I've started noticing them, I cant say I've seen one on the interstate.

I can only speak for California but they are generally titled as commercial trucks. I believe that means you have to stop at CHP weigh stations. You want to install a few RV amenities like a sink, shower, stove, etc. and you can then get it re-titled as a "house car". Then you put stickers on the side saying "Not For Hire" and can drive it anywhere a normal RV can go.

No special drivers license required. They are allowed on highways. You don't see as many of them there because they are usually used for local deliveries and such. They are geared a little low but I had no problem running 60-65 in mine.

They aren't designed with comfort in mind so the cab is spartan. I heard horror stories about how loud and painful they were to drive but I didn't find mine to be bad at all. I am used to older vehicles so your mileage may vary (hah!).

 

[Badwolf42]

Thx.
Kind of like the spartness though im sure i could make it comfy with a little thought.
Also figured to make everything inside quick removal incase i need to use it for cargo. (Like a sofa bed bolted to the floor. 4 bolts and its out)

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Bud Smiley]

Agreed. They're very well made too. They are designed for day in, day out commercial use. They work great as a blank canvas to build your own setup. Easy to get parts, relatively easy to work on, etc.

 

[Badwolf42]

I figure a diesel too.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Bud Smiley]

Lots of diesels. Usually 6.2 or 6.5 Detroit Diesels or 4BT Cummins. Mine isn't turboed and I suspect a lot of them are like that. I'd have preferred a 4BT in mine but I think the 6.5 will serve me as long as I leave it stock.

 

[grummy]

> Would love to keep the outside nondescript for urban boon-docking...

The "nondescript" is possible, but then you really need to keep it looking like a work truck. If I was desperate for stealth, and I had to use a Step van, the drivers compartment would remain slightly messy with all sorts of clipboards and paperwork. Behind the sliding door however, would be as plush as desired.

It's still a challenge then to park where such a truck might spend the night. In some states, putting a company name on the side without DOT numbers might get you pulled over because they want all company trucks to have DOT numbers.

As far as I am concerned, there is only one really good "cover" for stealth on a van, but it does not work for a step van (Doll up your van to look like a transport/wide load escort van - Cops are familiar with those people forced to be living "on the road").

> Are you aware of any restrictions for this type of van/truck? Is it a van or a truck?

None really regards driving, unless of course you bought one so large that it has air brakes. That would require an elevated license in most states. It is a "truck' technically with a "Van body".


>Is it allowed on highways and such? Since I've started noticing them, I cant say I've seen one on the interstate.

UPS and FedEx runs up and down the interstates day in and day out with them.

Of course with new federal and state rules, it seems that any truck once designated as a "commercial truck" remains a commercial truck. This means that while you can get it titled as a motorhome, you may be forced to insure it as a commercial truck. In my case, I have been forced to retain full coverage, but that does include full roadside assistance and towing. There is a company that specializes in insuring "converted" vehicles, and this next year, I might look them up for a quote. My registration is only $60 something a year as a motorhome, but insurance is running me over $500 a year. I am sure this is still cheap compared to what some pay, but I have 5 registered vehicles, and they know I can't drive all 5 at any given time.

If you go true step van, like mentioned, the CAB is the area where you have a real different world compared to something with traditional doors. LOTS of exposed aluminum makes it harder to insulate and the sliding doors can never fully be weather stripped. BUT again, behind the wall you can have a really nice, tight well insulated living space.