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I'm sorry, I don't know if you mentioned this before, but is yours a van or RV? If van, where did you place the fan, forward or aft?
 
If you start reading the thread, I identify the vehicle in the first sentence. My identity picture also shows my cat on the roof of my van. My photograph of the fan instal clearly shows the FF in the back between the roof racks. I was looking at putting it in the front, but would have had to build up a couple spots to make it work.

Read the entire thread. I will be adding more to it in the next few days, as soon as the final pieces come in for the electrical / solar installation. I hope to be on the road in two weeks. As soon as I get my kids moved into their own place.

Then comes the story of my trip around the country.
 
Sorry, I've read the thread from the beginning over a period of weeks, but had just forgotten. And the picture of the fan install...still shows up fuzzy on my end, : ( sorry.
 
Time for an update on this old thread.

I ended up with four Fullriver DC224-6 batteries
A Blueseas 12 opening fuse box for my house system.
Three Blueseas 12v power outlets on 15a fuses.
two LED lights
1 100a Renogy panel with a Renogy controler.

After 9 months on the road, I found what to do differently

Start with at least a 1 ton frame.

The rest will be on a new build thread.
 
John...that's why I insisted on a 1 ton. I knew we'd be making changes and adding things over time.
Plus, as you noticed, the taller ground clearance is well suited for desert boondocking.
The extra space in the long maxi vans is really nice. I wouldn't care for anything less now.
 
Hey John, I've thought about a van with one of those KUV bodies. My biggest concerns are the weight, I've had several pickups that had been converted to service bodies and they were all heavy, before adding tools. I also wonder if there's enough room left inside to make a decent living area? Have you checked out the used Uhaul cargo vans that are single rear wheel? A contractor friend bought one for work. It was tall enough to stand up in, no wider outside than a regular van, and I think the inside measured 10' long. The cab and box were originally separate, but it was an easy task to cut a pass through in the plywood bulkhead. A door could even be built there to create a pretty stealth rig, using skylights for natural light instead of windows if need be.
 
Another good option Doug.

I will expand my search criteria.
 
slow2day said:
Since you have the floor stripped, you might want to put in an access door for the fuel pump. That way if your pump fails on the road some time in the future, you wouldn't have to drop the tank to replace it.

My pump is on the engine, but I will remember this awesome idea for the future!
 
GotSmart said:

That's the dual wheel version. More room and better weight capacity, but more like driving a Class C motorhome and only about 10 MPG. I was thinking the single wheel version of the box truck - not a regular cargo van. I found a few at Denver area U Haul dealerships, but they were around $9700 with just under 100K on the odo. I'm sure you can find a better deal from a private party used. I tried to post a link, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to copy and past since I switched to a Mac and have no right click feature. You can teach an old dog new tricks, but it takes some of us a little longer to figure things out.
 
Highlight, "C" for cut? (and "P" for paste) That might work.

I need to do something once I am able to be up. I have maintenance to do once I am allowed to be on my feet again. Slight infection~~~

I am in the search part of the build again.
 
masterplumber said:
I'm having trouble figuring out how to copy and past since I switched to a Mac and have no right click feature.

Hold the command key and (@ same time)

x = cut
c = copy
v = paste

Command key on bottom left, looks like 4 leaf clover.

There are other ways also but that's what I remember off top of my head without looking at a mac
 
So I just randomly thought of another vehicle option for you. The forest service fire crews use a shorter version of a full size school bus. It is either 7 windows or 9 from the door back, I can't remember which. But basically it's not really any longer overall than my crew cab. Many rural school districts use these also, so you might find a used one cheap. In the forest service ones, they have a caged in area in the back, where they store all the tools. I thought that could work as well for you. Then you still have the front for living in, and it would still be bigger than your whole van. The load capacity is huge, as these are usually built on a 2 ton chassis. With a Cummins or International DT 466 the mileage wouldn't be great, but probably not as bad as you would think. I don't know if driving a stick agrivates your back, but I have seen these with autos also. I'm amazed how far back on the fire roads they take these things. As long as there's traction they seemingly go anywhere due to the supperb clearance and gearing. Just a thought to throw in the proverbial soup.
 
In Missouri they use old school busses for float trips. Lots of back road and trail driving.

The problem is the 8 MPG those hogs get.

Also the job coming up in Sacramento will be in an exclusive area. I can hide a lot of vehicles, but not a bus.

I will take my time, and look around for what I would really like A utility box van. Once I move my tools out, I have room.
 
GotSmart said:
In reading other threads, I saw the question come up about painting.  I am posting this now so people can see how I did it, and learn from my mistakes.

I had a rusty roof, and was worried about it going through. I removed the luggage rack and used m cordless drill and two wire wheels to remove the main rust.  I had a lot of sandpaper from years ago.  I used about 30 sheets and cleaned and roughed up the remaining paint.  I masked off the sides~~~:mad: not good enough:mad: and used seven cans total (primer and top coat) to paint the roof.  I then used fresh stainless steel screws dipped in clear silicone to put the rack back on.  

I had to use scrubby pads to remove the fine overspray from where I had not masked.  (HOURS!) I bought a cheap spray can trigger handle ($3) which made things much easier.  I would have been much better off it I had used either a good brush, or a roller.  

The paint I used was from a farm supply. International Harvester White.  Which is a cream or dark eggshell.  They had about 20 different colors there, so for $5 a can spray, or about $14 a can liquid you can save a good amount over factory colors from the paint supply or auto parts stores.

Great job on the roof. Would a fine nap roller have done the trick? Like the foam ones.
 
The next time I will use a roof coating. There are a couple of recent threads telling how to do it right.
 
Yeah, I understand the heavier frame idea. Trouble is, here in Az the MVD/DMV said that cargo vans can be personal use plates up to 3/4 ton, no 1 tons. Didn't ask about window vans but the 15 passenger versions are all commercial plated here. I haven't seen an older 12 passenger window van that's more than 3/4 ton. Anything with a high top is $8,000 plus...
All, like 99% of the conversion vans are heavy half tons, 7700 gvr is the max I have seen. Even stripping out all the seating only saves about 4-500 pounds which rapidly goes away when adding batteries, solar, cabinets, water etc... And I don't even have the tools you've got.

Then there is the 15 inch rims on older conversion vans, low ground clearance, crappy axles and brakes...

I like your build and agree that while the uhaul single axle vans are nice, they are entirely commercial plated with all that nonsense that goes along with it. There was a great one on Craigslist a while back for $4500 however, commercial... All the short buses are the same.

If I had the money I'd get the 2007 or newer ford e150 vans as they boosted the gvw on those. Part of the ever increasing truck frame capacity wars going on. However, that's not affordable.

Gat post and descriptions. Is the solar working for you? Does a 100A panel bring those 4 batteries up quick enough? I'd think that would be a struggle...
 
Using my road pro cooker, lights, chargers and everything else... On a normal day they are topped up before noon.

I think using quality components and large wires makes the difference.
 
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