Starting the build

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Back on the running system. I replaced the shock absorbers, $80 for Gabriel Ultra's, all 4, eBay!!! ($200 at parts store) And the ball joints and stabilizer bar bushings. $128.00 from RockAuto. (Normally $240.00 at parts store.) I needed a new jack, so $95 later, I have something I can take on the road at 1/2 the weight of my old one.

This morning I have to get a mounting bracket from the wrecking yard for the stabilizer bar, as someone used it to tow with, bending what is supposed to be a straight pin into a s shape. Once it is all done, I will get a fresh alignment, and my wheels balanced. Then it should ride and track like new, for about 1/4th what the shop would charge. That will bring my investment up to about $1,500 so far. I will have saved more than three times that by doing the work myself.
 

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Still stuck working under the van. I made a deal with a military trained mechanic, and tackled the brakes... I replaced the left caliper, (The right one had already been done) and the rear wheel cylinders. It seems my mechanic I took it to was lying to me. He said the back brakes were fine, and he adjusted them and bled the system. The cylinders were collapsed, and their were no tool marks on the bleeder valves. :dodgy: The fronts were all that was stopping the van!

I had to replace every piece of hardware on the brakes. Between corrosion and wear~~~ $90 in parts, and $120 to my friend to make sure the labor was done right.

It seems that there is a trick taught in mechanics school. You filter the brake fluid through a coffee filter, and save the $14 a gallon it costs by re using it. :dodgy: My first suspicion was when the fluid in my new mechanic install master cylinder looked like mud.

I will be confronting him today. :mad:

I still want to replace the stering box, but time is getting short. 1 1/2 months left. :D
 
Brake fluid sucks up water/moisture and becomes useless as it will never be reliable and will rust your brake lines.
this is the cheapest fix start at the brake furthest away from the pump usually the right rear.
 
The lines have been completely flushed. I went through 1/2 gallon of fluid.
 
I finally got some progress on the interior. :D

The local Habitat for Humanity has a "Re~Store" where they sell donated construction items. The profit goes to fund the building of houses for those that qualify.

I have been checking out their cabinets waiting for the right one to come in. Yesterday it did. One of the local Hospital's rebuilt some exam rooms. The sink and cabinet are a perfect 36". Just right for fitting behind the drivers seat. Not bad for $40.00 I can put in a faucet and drain it into a jug at a later date.

The only down side is I have to pull it once a month to check my storage batteries.

This means I need to re think my carpeting plans. Perhaps a throw rug instead would be better.

Now to look into the solar parts~~~:s
 

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Wow! Mini bar....check! Great score.

Could you make a removable panel in the back of the cabinet to check that battery?
 
Bdog1 said:
Wow! Mini bar....check! Great score.

Could you make a removable panel in the back of the cabinet to check that battery?

Since there will be up to 4 batteries in there, I will wait until I get them set so I have precise measurements. They are under the floor of the cabinet.
 
Ah. I see. Yea, pretty limited on a place for that much battery.
 
I found the perfect place. UNDER. Since I have about 60CF dedicated to tool storage, I must do something to have the power I will be needing.

The converter system will be in the wall of the closet, and the panels on top. 45 years in construction arts does come in handy.
 
I have the interior almost completed. I need to have a plate welded on a seat to move it over 3 inches, so I can maneuver it for proper sleeping.

I have a curved shower curtain to go in the front to cover the windshield.

I have the clips to hold the drawers in ordered, along with the bubble for the back window. and the solenoid for the solar.

Tomorrow I will clean out the van and post current pictures of the set up. I need to get a can of paint and make it all nice and uniform.
 

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I dropped the seat off to have the plate welded on it, and went by the carpet store. I asked about remnants and for $10 I got a piece big enough to do the front.

I went to put it in and the cats decided to sleep where I was working.

Once I got the seat back and installed, I found it will do what I need a whole lot easier. All I need to do to it now is cover the base with carpet.

I also need to paint the interior. That will have to wait until I finish the current job I am doing. I would rather not have fresh paint and job supplies at the same time.
 

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Time is short!

Just over one week left, and lots of things to do.

I found a Fantastic Fan at a yard sale. Just the dome, screen and frame, but it is in great shape. I cut the hole in the roof and mounted it. I can run the wires for it at any time. Down the road I can buy the upgrade kit to put in the fancy power fan. Just having this in and cracked open lowers the temp in the van about 15*

I have a bunch of parts waiting for the right chance to put them in. 50 ft of #4 gauge and a bunch of connectors. The 8 ton crimp tool should be here any day. 50 foot of 18 gauge speaker wire, for the 12 volt lights and fan. 12 led lighted 12v power switches to turn on the lights, fan, and power the solenoid. I will pick up my batteries in the beginning of July, right before I hit the road. Solar hopefully as I go through Arizona.

It all depends on a few factors I have no control over. :D
 

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Hi GotSmart!
I'm about to do my Fantastic vent, could you tell me what kind of sealant you used? My fan just came with a thin foam gasket. I called the supplier today and was told that's all I need between the fan and the roof. I'm very skeptical! Surely I need more than that!? Some type of sealant?
Ps, don't know if it's just on my side, but yours pictures look blurred.
 
I found a product called Rope Caulk. Any hardware store has it. I spent about $6 for a package that would do 3 fans. That is what I cleaned off of the unit befor I put it in my location. It has been raining here for the past 2 days. No leaks,



http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1386305&cp=2568443.2568453.2626341.2627448

You just unroll it to cover the base plate, press in and tear off what is not needed. Kind of like playing with clay as a kid.

My pictures look clear from my computer. Any one else having that problem?
 
Yea, that's what I guy on YouTube was using. No way I'm just going to rely on a flimsily foam gasket.
Question though; is that rope caulk safe to use on a metal roof?
 
Luisafernandes said:
Yea, that's what I guy on YouTube was using. No way I'm just going to rely on a flimsily foam gasket.
Question though; is that rope caulk safe to use on a metal roof?

It is like clay. No problem as to causing any damage. I have found similar stuff as weatherproofing in many buildings I work on. It works around windows to stop leaks, and cleans up easy.

One hint. When you set your fan in place, and drill the pilot holes for your screws... Use some silicone Caulk by the screw head to guarantee a waterproof seal. I put just a drop at the top of the screw so when it goes down the last full turn it squishes a little out.
 
Pictures look alright to me, although if the browser doesn't automatically resize them they appear super zoomed in.

Thanks for the tip about the rope caulk. Seems like plumber's putty, but better.
 
It is a slightly different consistency than plumbers putty. it is not as pliable. The color is different also. Plumbers putty will leave a oily stain after sitting for a year or so. Especially on fiberglass tubs. That can be removed with a cloth soaked in Peroxide. (Commercial plumber for years) Just let it sit for an hour or so.
 
Not yet. When the air is dryer, I can take it apart on the inside and touch it up with a small brush. It was ready to rain when I finished the installation.
 
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