Stalls out only in reverse

[uncagingmyspirit]

I have a Ford E350, 1998, lots of miles.

Just recently, whenever I put it in reverse the van almost always stalls. It starts fine, drives fine, never stalls out except when it's in reverse. Doesn't do it every single time, just often enough that it has me worried. Anyone know what it might be?


Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[bullfrog]

Still sitting still with brake on or attempting to start backing up with foot off brake when it stalls?

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

Still sitting still with brake on or attempting to start backing up with foot off brake when it stalls?

Attempting to back up.
After it stalls out I put it in park started up fine and then back up. It always stalls out the first time I put it in reverse. After I restart it, it doesn't do it again

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[Manyways2go]

I can't quite decide with limited information. If all else seems normal does it also happens cold + when its fully warmed up? Where I'm at the Auto Zone and O'Riellys hand you a scanner to plug in and then read it with their software or give you a printout, sometimes it is helpful. What engine size? Is the idle smooth, rough or too slow? Normal items like fuel filter and transmission service, spark plugs etc if not changed in recent years is a good place to start. hopefully something simple shows up

 

[bullfrog]

Do you use your parking brake on a regular basis? Sometimes rear brake shoes stick, If they are out of adjustment reversing with the brake on will cause the automatic adjuster to be activated but can sometimes cause them to wedge, this sometimes results in a poping noise when they do release. When was the last time the rear brakes were looked at? I would park so that I could move forward a few feet first then put it in reverse and see if it does it. It may be with a cold engine just enough resistance to cause the engine to stall taking the pressure off the drive line or brake while restarting may rock the vehicle just enough to unstick the shoes. Engines don't know if they are going forwards or backwards so unless it is really an unusual problem most likely something in the driveline most likely brakes is causing a load on the engine.

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

What engine size? Is the idle smooth, rough or too slow? Normal items like fuel filter and transmission service, spark plugs etc

Engine size. I think is a 5.8? Hopefully I'm saying that correctly.
Now that you mention it, I believe it does only happen at night time. The temperature here at night is in the 40s. I've done regular oil changes and I took the van in for a basic inspection but not a full inspection. I had her in the mechanic shop late October where they worked on a few different things. Unfortunately there's a second issue that I'm not certain If the mechanic shop caused. My hood won't open. When I try to open it, the passenger side corner of the hood doesn't seem to be attached. I'm taking her by the mechanics tomorrow.

I'm hoping to be a little bit more knowledgeable before I take her in though. I think that guy who runs the shop inflates his prices a bit. I sort of feel like he took advantage of me the last time it was in the shop since I was doing multiple things. If he did cause the hood to be broken then I'm hoping he will fix it for free. I realize if his shop did break at their not going to admit to it. But since I spent a little over $1500, and I'm a repeat customer, he'll consider it good business. We'll see.

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

Do you use your parking brake on a regular basis?
No.

I don't hear a popping noise when I put it into reverse. The rear brakes was one of the things that the mechanics looked at it when it was in the shop late October. I know that he said that the bearings are loud but he didn't tell me that they needed to be changed. When this happens it's after I've been driving for a while, doing errands. However, I realized just recently that my front brakes or at least one of my front brakes are squeaking. It doesn't squeak every single time I use them though. I was planning to change them after RTR.

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[bullfrog]

Loud bearings? Maybe he was reffering to the bearings in the rear end? Was the fluid changed in the rear end and was it visually inspected?

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

Loud bearings? Maybe he was reffering to the bearings in the rear end? Was the fluid changed in the rear end and was it visually inspected?

Since it was the mechanic who told me about this, I really hope so. I believe the fluid was changed and brakes inspected.

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[Seminole Wind]

maybe you can scan/photo the work order (bill/paperwork) so we can see what exactly was done by the mech. if your bearings are making noise, they are going to be a problem sooner rather than later.

as for the stalling in reverse, not saying this is YOUR problem, but i have seen where the torque (motion) of the motor was different going into reverse vs forward. in that case there was a wire connection that was not so good. often when going into reverse that motion/torque of the motor strained that connection and cause a fault. it was an intermittent problem and drove us nuts trying to track it down. think outside the box, think about ANYTHING that is different about going in reverse vs going forward. like the back up light circuit, this is really a stretch but a combination of bad grounds or faulty connections could do some weird things. with 20 years on that rig, no amount of "up keep" will prevent wires and connectors from degrading.

maybe i missed it but i assume this is an automatic transmission? check to make sure the linkage is not rubbing on a wiring bundle. again, not saying thats the problem, but i saw a case where a clutch pedal would bind on a wire bundle and after 15 years i wore through some insulation and would short things out.

as for sticking brakes, i would highly doubt that. if the engine is running right you can drop it in any gear with the brakes locked and give it gas. only thing that happens is you load the engine but go no where. no if the engine is running like dog snot, fix the engine and the other problems may go away

looking forward to see the work order to help you better

 

[Weight]

My engine was idled too low. Reverse would put just enough extra 'presure' on the drive train that the engine would stall the first time it was in reverse. Not always.

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

maybe you can scan/photo the work order (bill/paperwork) so we can see what exactly was done by the mech. if your bearings are making noise, they are going to be a problem sooner rather than later.

I misplaced one of the service papers but here is most of what was done on my van in late October

Replacements
radiator oem (radiator part number F5UZ8005B)
Heater hose
drive belt
Serpentine belt
A.I.R. belt
Wheel cylinder
rear brakes & lug nuts
rear brake kit

The brakes and rortars were a home job, done by a friend last spring but the front is sqeeking. Realy hoping i can put it off to Feb because I want to go to RTR. The shop the work was done at is closed until Jan 2nd >.< I'll have to wait to have them look at the hood and the potential cause of the reverse.

What I have realized is that it only happens at night. I baked up a few tmes eariler today and it didnt happen. It's only happening at night, after I've been driving for at least a couple of hours ding errands.

Sent from my RCT6873W42M using Tapatalk

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

stalling in reverse, not saying this

maybe i missed it but i assume this is an automatic transmission?

I just tested it and it only happens when my foot is on the brake and I'm in reverse. If I put it in reverse only, it doesn't stall out.

I do have an automatic

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[Manyways2go]

The only differences in Reverse would be a bit higher pressures within the transmission and the direction engine moves on the mounts. Weird problem would be wiring harness and difficult to find, also as mentioned in something binding in the rear. Since the brakes were done rear it would be good to have it rechecked there are several small parts and mistakes can happen or breakage. Brake shoes have a larger shoe goes to the rear, sometimes mechanics get it wrong. Any air leak sound under the dash when you apply brakes would indicate a power booster beginning to leak. Again hopefully something minor. It seems peculiar doesn't occur ever in drive, there are some electrical solenoids inside the transmission also that could stick and act up.

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

. Again hopefully something minor. It seems peculiar doesn't occur ever in drive, there are some electrical solenoids inside the transmission also that could stick and act up.

Thank you. I'm definitely going to take it back to the original mechanic who worked on it in October. They don't open again until the second. I'm going to call tomorrow just in case, but I probably have to wait. I'm just glad this happened now before I left for Arizona. at least now I have a broad general idea of what might be happening... And I can communicate this to the mechanic.

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk

 

[Doubleone]

Several symptoms seem to indicate a low idle.  Engines don't like to idle in the cold until they warm up a bit.  Foot on brake, automatic in reverse, cold night with headlights on, possibly steering at the time. all contribute to drag down the engine rpms.  Usually the computer can compensate by raising the idle but sometimes things go wrong.  The first thing to do is cheap and easy, clean the throttle blades of any carbon or crud to restore the minimum air flow setting.  Over time the throttle gets crusty along the thin edges and restricts air and lowers the idle.  I'd also clean or replace the PCV valve because that is also part of the minimum air flow.  The computer expects a certain amount of air coming in and when dirt clogs up the works the computer doesn't understand.  It takes a small wire brush and solvent to really clean the throttles good.  Next thing I'd look at the idle air control valve (IAC), take it off, clean the inside and knock out all the carbon, maybe even replace it depending on mileage.  The IAC is a screw type servo that controls idle by varying the amount of air depending on load and math tables in the computer.  The IAC is a moving part that wears out over time and can stick, not keeping up with idle air needs, causing stalling or rough idle.  Another common thing is a worn throttle position sensor (TPS), they can cause a glitch with idle or just off idle without setting a code.

 

[uncagingmyspirit]

Several symptoms seem to indicate a low idle.  

Great information! Thanks. If I can open my hood (separate problem) I'll definitely check these things out.

Sent from my 5049Z using Tapatalk