Sportsman 800w on sale again

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Zizzer_Zazzer_Zuz said:
Please explain like I'm 5.

If I buy this generator what is the preferred / best way to utilize for charging house batteries? What other hardware would be required?

I have 2xDuracell 6V golf carts. I also have a Battery Tender brand charger.

This generator also has DC output. Can you just run the DC output to a battery and charge that way?

Buy the generator and I will assume your Battery Tender Charger is in the 10-20 amp range. (BT maintainers are in the 2 amp range) Clamp the red and black ends to your battery bank, positive to positive and negative to negative, then plug it into the generator after it's been running for a minute or so.

These inexpensive inverter generators are a bit like batteries, meaning its best to keep your average demand in the middle of its range, for best efficiency, performance, and life. Plus just about all of them have a derating curve for higher altitude and/or high ambient temps, meaning it might only do 500 watts continuous at 8000-12000 feet in the mountains or in the low desert at 110 degrees in the shade.

So its best to stay conservative with the current rating of the charger you plug in to the genset.

You can use the DC hookup, but you still cant exceed the power ratings.

It shows a 4 amp output, so it will slowly, VERY slowly, charge those big ol golf cart batteries. On the gensets I have used and am familiar with, the DC output can be considered to be a constant 'float' charger, it is voltage regulated around 13.4-13.8 more or less. This is very safe for flooded and larger sealed lead acid batteries.

So it will charge your batteries but not in a hurry. The Battery Tender will pull more power to fast charge the batteries and then cut back to float as the voltage stabilizes.


Hoping this helped?
 
tx2sturgis said:
Hoping this helped?

Yes. Thank you. It confirms my basic understanding. I'm also looking at a used 2000watt Generac for $300.

I like the warranty for the lesser price.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
:huh: SW thanks for the info.  I will have to study on that.   :) I learn something new every day!

Jewellann
 
Zizzer_Zazzer_Zuz said:
 I'm also looking at a used 2000watt Generac for $300.

My one and only Generac was faulty out of the box and Northern Tools refused to take it back since it had been filled with oil and gas.

Well how in the hell is one supposed to test it out?

Sure, they will 'repair' it, if I am willing to either ship it at my cost, about $50, or hand deliver it to a certified repair center 150 miles away.

Huh? (blank) that.

Then on top of that, they sent snail-mail and email questionnaires asking things like, was I satisfied and would I recommend a Generac to a friend? Not no but HELL no.

I filled out and returned both the printed and the email questionnaire and have heard NOTHING.

Generac customer service, in my opinion, is poor at best. So make sure that used one is working...test it before you buy it. Start it up, plug in a 1200 watt space heater, and let it run for 10 minutes. If it struggles, or bogs down and dies, tell the seller, thanks but no thanks.
 
Generac was going to be the next big thing, competing head to head with Honda and Yamaha in quality with half the price. The Ace Hardware near me said he had a 60% return rate the first six months and dropped them like a stone. Buyer beware.

Rob
 
Our old handyman, back when we had disposable income, called the el cheapo generators "screamers".  Some of them can be pretty loud. If relative quiet is important to you, you may want to listen to how it runs prior to purchasing a cheaper one.  
Ted
 
I'll probably start taking bets on the over/under of how long it takes to fry my first set of batteries.

Rob
 
StarEcho said:
....but with the DC port on the generator there is no floating, just flat out charging.


 Actually, its both.

I dont go around checking all of them, but most of them simply output about 13.4-13.8 more or less, and that will slowly charge a lead acid 12v battery and bring it up to float charge level. The charge current tends to slowly decrease as the battery approaches say, 75%-90% of full charge. The final charging time to top it off can be many hours.

The time involved depends on the capacity of the battery and its state of discharge.

But in theory, it cant overcharge a battery either, so its pretty safe.
 
Gunny said:
I'll probably start taking bets on the over/under of how long it takes to fry my first set of batteries.

Rob

None of end up with the batteries we started with, so you're in good company...

:D
 
Dang movable keys..


That last line should have said:

None of us end up with the batteries we started with, so you're in good company...
 
Standing a equal distance from both a Honda EU2000 and my Sportsman I could not tell the difference with each under load. The Honda is much quieter in Eco mode though but then again I don't run a generator to be ready for when I need it, I only would run it under load.

I can also say I was very impressed with the noise level of a Champion 2000i inverter generator. They are as quiet as the Honda in Eco mode and a bit louder under full load. I'd like to have one except A it is too heavy and B I never needed the last generator I gave away unused nor have I needed the one I have now yet. My bank will support me conservatively for a week and the solar picks up enough in the rain to extend that to weeks. So far I haven't gone more than a few days without enough light to get the bank through an absorption cycle. It doesn't take full sun to do it.
 
I've got a new charge controller being installed, supposed to be an upgrade from the old one, my trailer is an 1988. Trying to decide on solar and how to configure as much as I can on the roof and charge the batteries, 2 Duracell 6 volts, and trying to understand the dynamics of getting them to full charge without overcharging.

My trailer is still in Oklahoma being repaired or waiting in line to be repaired, I haven't called and am rapidly reaching the point I don't care.

Those that have experience have tried mightily to educate me and while I am not stupid I must admit this high charge, low charge, ambient charge or just plain old charge boggles my mind.

I would like a meter or some instrument to tell me when to change voltage and maybe even for how long. Probably isn't one. Some have said I just want something fancy...No, I want something that I can work with. And can understand.

Rob
 
Rob

First off you are having a converter installed. A charge controller is what you will use to control the power coming from the panel/s. It should adjust the voltages as needed, mine always have. Some converters like the one you bought are better than others at taking care of your batteries. That said I don't know enough about it to tell you what it can and can not do. I rely on my solar and my batteries have lasted long term. The only reason I bought the Sportsman was it was too cheap to turn down.
 
Jim, My thought was it would beat cranking up the big generator just to charge the batteries. It's also something perhaps my back could handle, who knows.

I have everything loaded up to take to Oklahoma, that will happen this week if my back cooperates. I will ask someone to take pictures with measurements to see what I can actually put up there.

I'll talk to you in an email about the various panels I've found and a couple of controllers on ebay.

Rob
 
Gunny said:
Those that have experience have tried mightily to educate me and while I am not stupid I must admit this high charge, low charge, ambient charge or just plain old charge boggles my mind.


Think of a battery as a full bucket of water.

Pour out half of it.

Now take a garden hose with water on low flow, and fill it back up right to the top of the brim, no more, no less.

Time your removal of the flow so that nothing ran over, and the level of the water is EXACTLY at the brim.

Pretty easy, but it takes a bit of time to do. Lets say, 2 minutes.

After a few days, if the water level has dropped due to evaporation or a dog slurping up a drink, add a tiny bit more water until the level is perfectly at the brim. No more, no less.

Now you have the idea behind the way a standard, flat rate charger with maintenance, or float, would work.

Starting again...

Pour out half the water.

Take another bucket, same size, but 1/4 full of water.

Pour it in rapidly. Dump it all in!

Now the bucket is 75% full. Quickly take the hose with water flowing rapidly, and fill it to 90%.

Turn the water flow down to very low flow again, and top off the water to right at the brim.

You now have a bucket full of water but it only took say, 30 seconds from 50% to 100%, instead of 2 minutes.

Again, add a little water every few days to keep the level at exactly 100%.

Now you have the idea of how a multistage, automatic charger works.

Bulk is the major fill from the other bucket.

Absorption is the high flow from the hose.

Float is the low flow from the hose as it reaches the very top of the brim.

And adding a bit of water every few days is like the maintenance stage...just keeping it level.

On flooded batteries, you can have another stage, called equalization. This would be like spraying a wide steam over several square buckets aligned so that the overfill from one bucket will add to the next bucket.

And finally, you might see a de-sulphation (or sometimes called de-stratification) stage for flooded batteries on some chargers, usually used once a month, or manually with the press of a button. These are often present on a home system using flooded batteries that never move. Batteries in a vehicle that is driven regularly do not need this stage, nor do gel or sealed AGM.

De-sulphation, (de-stratification), used in our bucket of water, is done by taking the hose on the highest flow possible, and dropping the nozzle into the bottom, and purposely over filling the bucket to over-flowing. This stirs up or agitates the water, and keeps it well mixed and fresh.

In a flooded battery that sits perfectly still for months at a time, the battery acid can develop 'gas' bubbles during the charging process and those cause the plate surfaces within the bubbles to 'dry out'. This can cause the beginning of sulphation, and it needs to be addressed or the battery will be damaged eventually. So the desulpahation or de-stratification stage FORCES a very high voltage into the battery, with lots of current, to cause the acid to basically start to boil...its a controlled boil, causing off-gassing, and only done for a short period of time. But its enough to 'stir' the acid, and recombine all the fluid and force the bubbles to the top of the acid level and vent off.

You dont want to be breathing those fumes while its happening! But it restores the fluid to a well-mixed consistency inside the battery.

Now for the those who understand all of this, this is highly simplified....but maybe it helped make it clearer for those who are new to all of this stuff.
 
I got to run a full tank through mine while I was at Rampart range and under tree cover. Started easy and ran smooth as long as the gas lasted.
 
great deal on a sweet little generator. It's too bad it can not be paralleled, I'd get another at that price.
 
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