Speaker Wires+Heat Shrink Tubing as Solar Wires?

[windnsalsa]

Hi, I already have a roll of never used audio wires [10 awg stereo wires oxygen free copper, USA, JSC Wire & Cable [font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]#[/font][font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]2225[/font]]. What do people think about using these wires enclosed with heat shrink tube in the section exposed outside of minivan? Dangerous? I would think the tubing is the same material as that is on PV wires and would hate to spend $ if I can safely use with some quality wires that I already have. Tube example :
 
https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Marine...16702238&sprefix=temco+shrink+,aps,239&sr=8-3

 

[highdesertranger]

Just get the correct cable. Outdoor rated solar cables with the MC4 waterproof connectors are cheap and it's plug and play. Save the audio cables for audio. Highdesertranger

 

[MikeRuth]

Not gonna argue HDR's response but for me, I'd do that. Then again I'm the type to use what ever I have if it will do the job.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

I can't say dangerous, but you may fry some equipment if those wires become compromised. Outdoor wire insulation is specifically designed to resist the harmful effects of the sun. Unknown what damage the sun will do to speaker wire or heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink isn't the cheapest thing. That Amazon link has it for $1.60/foot. You can get outdoor rated solar cable for $0.50/foot. If you only need 5' of cable distance, buy a 10' piece with MC4 connectors already on both ends, cut it in half, and plug and play.

 

[doublegregg]

i'd maybe do it myself, but i have a portable solar panel. for something permanet on the roof - i wouldn't. that seems dangerous, once that insulation gets fried, i'd figure my electronics can get wipred out...

 

[windnsalsa]

i'd maybe do it myself, but i have a portable solar panel. for something permanet on the roof - i wouldn't. that seems dangerous, once that insulation gets fried, i'd figure my electronics can get wipred out...

I tend to think the same...I will use my speaker wires for a future portable panel purchase.

On another note, I recently found for free some landscaping wire with following label. Would this be worse or better than speaker wire in regards to the main question in this thread [which thus far is not recommended overall]?
label specs:  black, E-494815 , 2/c , UL, underground  low energy circuit cable 150v AC sunlight resistant.  UL ULEC direct burial only 30v AC or low voltage landscape lighting FT1

 

[abnorm]

^ 12 gauge

 

[crofter]

Sounds like your rig will have faulty electrical wiring when you get done with the project. Maybe you should hire a professional to be on the safe side.

I can't imaging wanting to scrimp on something that could burn down your rig.

The National Electric Code was created to prevent people from doing what you are doing, and to reduce the number of houses that burned down due to faulty electrical wiring.
-crofter

 

[doublegregg]

I tend to think the same...I will use my speaker wires for a future portable panel purchase.

On another note, I recently found for free some landscaping wire with following label. Would this be worse or better than speaker wire in regards to the main question in this thread [which thus far is not recommended overall]?
label specs:  black, E-494815 , 2/c , UL, underground  low energy circuit cable 150v AC sunlight resistant.  UL ULEC direct burial only 30v AC or low voltage landscape lighting FT1

i don't know, as i'm a newbie at this solar stuff also. but sunlight resistant does not sound acceptable. it's designed for underground use, and low energy. a solar panel is not low energy, afaik. i tend to think it would be a disaster, actually. maybe someone else can weigh in. 

i think i'd go with the proper stuff for on top of your roof. it's a safety issue. idk if other people use inferior wiring up top... i guess they do, but it just seems unsafe, at least to me.i guess you could have a short circuit, since the wires are running close together, and blow out your controller or panels.... i figure you'd have to constantly check your wires and connectors. they'd probably only last a year or two, until something happened.

 

[B and C]

That is only 16G cable when I looked it up on Google.

"SURFACE PRINT
Sample: E-494815 16 AWG 2/C (UL) UNDERGROUND LOW ENERGY CIRCUIT CABLE 150V AC SUNLIGHT RESISTANT — C(UL) ULEC DIRECT BURIAL ONLY 30V AC OR LOW VOLTAGE LANDSCAPE LIGHTING FT1"

You really should use some 10Ga cable made for solar panels. This stuff is too skinny.

 

[doublegregg]

personally, i'd spend the money and try to do a propery wiring job on the outside of the vehicle. there's rain, sun, wind, vibration... it'll break down bad wiring and be hard to constantly check --- (uh, i do not have experience in this, btw).  i'd consider scrimping on interior wiring... it'll be easier to see if something uh... goes wrong or is wearing out.. also, hopefully there are lower amps going thru those wires inside. unless it's directly to the battery or solar controller, inverter, etc.....

 

[tx2sturgis]

Not only is proper solar panel wiring UV resistant, but the dielectric breakdown voltage of the insulation is usually at least 600 volts, maybe 1000 volts or more. If you cut this wire and look at it, the insulation is usually thicker than the metal conductor, kinda resembling spark plug wire, IE, high voltage wire. But usually stiffer.

Speaker wire? Who knows.

 

[wayne49]

Proper cable using weatherproof MC4 connectors. That is what comes on Renogy panels.

Speaker wire is meant to drive speakers for audio enjoyment, not charge an important battery bank.

Do it right, do it once.

 

[crofter]

 Save the audio cables for audio.  Highdesertranger

That is a great idea, but who still has hardwired speakers? My ancient trailer came with a set, nice sound quality but they found their way to the storage shed anyway.

I listen to all my audio on my smartphone. Tried a bluetooth speaker but could not get it to work.  What do you use for speakers?
-crofter

 

[vanstu]

Remember that the output of photovoltaic panels is direct current (DC). DC current will lose voltage when sent through small wires-- called line loss in the solar trade. Try to keep the wires from your array as short as possible and use the correct gauge wire to prevent this. 10 gauge minimum. Solder all splices and "tin" (solder the ends of the wires) all connections to your charge controller.

In mobile applications things get bounced around and can loosen up over time. Do it once and do it right the first time. :thumbsup:

 

[highdesertranger]

" What do you use for speakers?"

LOL I didn't get the memo. I use my newly installed Jensen RV stereo with hard wired speakers. Great improvement over the lap top speakers. Highdesertranger

 

[tx2sturgis]

That is a great idea, but who still has hardwired speakers? 

Me, says the guy who has a couple of tube-type audio amps...oh the sound is GOOD.

 

[B and C]

My van has two hardwired systems, the one from the factory and one I added to run off the house battery.

 

[Joey 319]

I can't say dangerous, but you may fry some equipment if those wires become compromised. Outdoor wire insulation is specifically designed to resist the harmful effects of the sun. Unknown what damage the sun will do to speaker wire or heat shrink tubing. Heat shrink isn't the cheapest thing. That Amazon link has it for $1.60/foot. You can get outdoor rated solar cable for $0.50/foot. If you only need 5' of cable distance, buy a 10' piece with MC4 connectors already on both ends, cut it in half, and plug and play.

Yay !! plethoraOf guns, well said. If I had a dollar for every time I've seen someone scrimp a nickel to save a dime and it cost them a quarter, I would be a hundredair...ya get what ya pay for