Source for cheap wire

[bee]

The price of electrical wire has me in tears lately so I was real excited when I went to SamsClub and picked up 4 gauge 20ft jumper cables for $19.<br>I was real excited because on their website it says they are pure copper. &nbsp;It does not say on the packaging, but the cables have stamped copper clad aluminum (CCA).<br><br>So... it is still a decent price at $0.50 a ft for CCA, they are&nbsp;proper&nbsp;thickness. &nbsp;Just remember you have to treat them like they are 5-6 gauge wire instead of 4 gauge.<br><br>Does anyone have any other places or ideas to find cheaper wiring?<br><br><br><br><br>ps so now I don't know what to do with them. &nbsp;I would much rather have pure copper wire for my camper, and I don't know if 20ft long jumper cables with 6 gauge equivalent wire will be able to jump a diesel.

 

[bk2valve]

I usually buy my cable from a welding supply store or if just a shorty is needed, I buy a switch to starter cable:<br><br>http://www.easternmarine.com/48-2-awg-battery-cable-black-200074<br><br>If you buy from a welding supply place you can have them install (crimp) on the terminals...<br><br>It is the cheapest and best cable I have found....the welding lead cable is super flexible and has a industrial strength rubber insulation....<br><br>Bri<br><br>edited for spelling...

 

[blars]

I ordered some online, took them about a week to ship then another to get to my permenent address.&nbsp; Shipping not cheap, wire is heavy.&nbsp; http://www.cableyard.com/RADAFLEX-Welding-Cable_c_1.html&nbsp; Remember to order the terminals as well.<br><br>I have a crimper for up to 1/0 wire, it will be at the RTR.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I ordered 50 feet of 8 awg from the following link for my Solar panel.<br><br>Among the best prices on the net, and fast and free shipping.<br><br>http://genuinedealz.com/

 

[longjohn]

<P>I bought some 20' 4 ga. jumper cables online for a good price and it turned out to be aluminum wire with a copper coating. No mention in the description that it was not 100% copper wire. Has worked fine so far though.</P>

 

[Guest]

I have a Ctek D250S Dual (DC to DC) Charger. Don't need huge cabling. Don't need anything bigger than 6 awg wire. Actually. if not needing the length to reach a trailer, you're good with 8 awg.

But the cabling I did buy came from an eBay vendor and was well priced, even with the shipping. It's MADE for outdoor Solar and DC applications.

Link for the Ctek: http://smartercharger.com/products/batterychargers/ctek-d250s-dual/

If you really want the 4 awg jumper cables - HarborFreight.com, sign up to be on the mailing list and wait for the 20% off coupon. I have a set and yep, they jump start a big rig off my Chevy no problem. But the insulation isn't made to withstand constant heat or UV.

 

[Cubey]

You know.... I'm betting the best source is you-pull salvage yards. I got a couple short heavy gauge battery cables (for linking house batteries together) for a couple dollars in excellent condition, I think solid copper wire. They run about $10-15 new for cables like that which might be CCA.<br><br>Unless you find a motorhome or conversion van, you can't find very long lengths of wire of smaller gauge wire that way but you can still find the heavy gauge stuff around the starter, battery and alternator.

 

[wrcsixeight]

I've peeled back the insulation on some thicker gauge older wiring and the copper is black or purple.<br><br>Getting a good minimal resistance connection requires shining up the copper back to gleaming brightness, which is not easy with stranded wiring.<br><br>I used one store bought 4 awg cable to my house batteries &nbsp;from Shunt as a ground, and later added another 4 awg cable in parallel but used new cable lugs crimped on with a hydraulic crimper.<br><br>Later I put my clamp on amp meter over both wires showing 4.5 amps were flowing through them. &nbsp;Then I put the clamp on meter over the &nbsp;more recent 4 awg wire I put the crimped terminals on, and it was passing 3.8 amps. &nbsp;Put on the store bought 4 awg connector, it was passing 0.7 amps.<br><br>I cut off the store bought connectors, peeled back the insulation found it still pretty shiny, but still polished it with a fine bristle brass brush and crimped on new cable lugs, and then each wire shared the load evenly, 50/50 or very nearly so.<br><br>The purpose of thicker cabling is to minimize resistance and voltage drop. &nbsp;No point &nbsp;In trying to form a solid connection when the copper is seriously compromised by age or bad insulation.<br><br>Here are the ends of the store bought 4 awg cable that I cut off, stuck to a magnet.<br>

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[ccbreder]

Aluminum wire corrodes at the connections. Causes currant loss, heat and fires.

 

[bee]

CCA (copper clad aluminum, Not what is used in houses) can be treated like pure copper wire for installation purposes. &nbsp;There is no reason not to use it, just people have to be aware that it will not perform as well as pure copper wire for equivalent thickness. &nbsp;It has higher resistance and less amperage handling capability when compared to pure copper. &nbsp;It may be cheaper. &nbsp;It is lighter.<br><br>Everyone should also be aware that it is often sold as pure copper wire when it isn't.<br><br><br>Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions.

 

[bee]

Just to clarify when I said cca can be installed like pure copper, I was&nbsp;referring&nbsp;to the fact that you can use the same copper end terminals crimped or soldered. &nbsp;No special items like&nbsp;grease&nbsp;are required. Because the aluminum is completely surrounded by copper it will corrode just like copper wires. &nbsp;I am not&nbsp;referring&nbsp;to home code now, just mobile installations. <br><br>I just dislike it because now you have to buy larger gauge wire and larger end terminals which basically negates any cost savings, takes up more physical room, and I am concerned about vibration&nbsp;fatigue&nbsp;issues though I don't know how warranted a concern that is.