Sound proof floor worth it?

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SunDance57

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Hi All,

Noob here building his first van. I am doing the insulation now and then will panel it. Then the floor. I was wondering if it is worth it to sound proof the floor with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deaden...an-20&linkId=1ef4ba4a6c3749f3b34d2fa463dbf9ba

I plan just to use 1/4 in OSB board for the floor. Then sheet vinyl on top of it?  Sound OK? Also, does it matter if I put the floor in after I put the walls on?


Thanks!

Michael
 
Usually cargo floor is not damp-matted, but the back wheel tubs (inner and outer clamshells) need it for sure even for a Sunday driver.  My best return on money from NOICO style damp mat was doing the back doors, pulling covers and getting in/out surfaces with a checkerboard of the stick-on stuff, then wheel well tubs, then side slider door. Getting 15-25% coverage in centers of huge sheetmetal cargo walls before the insulation would pay off, some say not so much, but it'd be more calm with it.

More info required - van make/model and where in the world (climate) - and - is this a coast-to-coast cruiser or just drive-a-mile-a-week?

It'd be very expensive to do even 20% coverage of cargo floor - maybe a little between floor corrugations anywhere it rings when tapped or above back axle & other places it might sympathy chime from tire noise and spring/shocks/frame mounting points?

Cold makes noico and other sound deadening mats turn rock hard, amazing how noisy my van gets six months out of the year (Minnesota) - I used scrap freebie 60mil roofing epdm membrane across the cargo floor under 1/2" plywood, in cold weather the rubber might as well be iron too. That is when carpet w/ built in padding rules!
 
SunDance57 said:
Hi All,

Noob here building his first van. I am doing the insulation now and then will panel it. Then the floor. I was wondering if it is worth it to sound proof the floor with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deaden...an-20&linkId=1ef4ba4a6c3749f3b34d2fa463dbf9ba

I plan just to use 1/4 in OSB board for the floor. Then sheet vinyl on top of it?  Sound OK? Also, does it matter if I put the floor in after I put the walls on?


Thanks!

Michael
Click to expand...


I wouldn't argue with HDS for anything. 
 
It seems all these people have 'driving'-deadening insulation (?)
To me, through the windows and sitting still are the main anoyances.
I wouldn't want it too deadening so I don't know what is going on around me,
but just enough to deaden parking lot activity for LOUD inconsiderate people.

Maybe HDS will offer some of his 'sound deadening' window shade secrets??   :D 
Truck Drivers obviously have got something going on to help keep their careers on the road intact.
 
What kind of noise are you hoping to keep out?
 
I am not really worried about noise, where I go noise isn't a problem. for my windows I took 1/8 inch plywood and cut it approximately 1/8 inch short of fitting the frame. then I took Reflectix and glued it to the plywood leaving it overhang the edges of the plywood by about 2 inches. now I can take the plywood panels and shove them into the frame and the overhang of the Reflectix holds it snug. on the floor I use Ensolite closed cell foam. don't glue it to the floor this way if needed is can be removed and washed. if you want a hard floor over that use plywood. highdesertranger
 
breeze said:
Truck Drivers obviously have got something going on to help keep their careers on the road intact.
Click to expand...

Nope, you just get used to the noise.  And when you went home for a weekend you couldn't sleep because it was too quiet.
 
1/4 OSB will fall apart- too thin! 1/4 of anything will warp. My floor has a sheet of free-floating 1/2 inch AB plywood with garage flooring on top of that. Under that is some XPS insulation. It works great. For some of the walls I used Advantech OSB, which is as good or better than any OSB on the market and it still isn't as good as plywood. If you want the best quality, longest lasting, more moisture resistant, easiest to use, easiest to paint, best looking product, you will want plywood. If I ever do a build again, it will be with plywood. While the OSB is holding up and working fine, I may regret not using plywood. Time will tell.

Putting the sound deadening product will help quiet the ride, but at a loss of room. Space is at a premium, so it is up to you if you want a quieter van or less room. The insulation and plywood itself resting on the floor will dampen noise.

Putting up the walls first or last doesn't seem to matter.
 
Obviously, window shading sound insulation is an open book for potential innovation   :D

And for sticks and bricks home windows, 3/4" plywood rocks, lol, but not for an rv van due to weight and awareness of surrounding environment. Ymmv. As for moving insulation, many mechanics like to hear a pin drop when they are moving, so they can fix anything not working just perfect. I've seen bald eagles with cones to their ears listening to their engine or other noise producing areas to figure out any odd noises.
 
Vans are not ever going to be as quiet as a luxury sedan...first off they're shaped more like an echo chamber than anything else.

Yes, you can go to some extreme lengths to try to quieten them down but IMO, why bother.

Put in a solid interior, pack your stuff so it doesn't rattle and let it go. Accepting that a van is going to be noisier on the road than a car is just part of the deal.

Besides which, you're going to be parked more hours than you're driving...it's what the interior is like when you're living in it that counts more, not a bit of road noise when you're driving.

Heck, if the road noise bothers you, drive less or turn up the stereo a notch or two... :D
 
I've NEVER regretted purchasing Fat Mat as sound deadener before building out the van. It rides VERY quiet. Doesn't take up ANY additional space, contrary to another post earlier (unless you count an 1/8" "space")...Between the Fat Mat and Polyiso insulation sheets and plank walls and ceilings, I'm very happy. I didn't put any on the floor, but did do wheel wells, and 2/3 of walls and ceiling. Full coverage is NOT needed. I think it is less tiring when driving for 8-10 hours a day if you don't have to listen to your truck rattling down the highway. Music sounds better. Conversations without screaming is also nice.

Also, as a few others have commented, I wouldn't use 1/4" wood for your floor. You want something thick enough that you can screw into to hold down fixtures inside your van. I've got 5/8" OSB that was polyurethaned on both sides before laying down as my subfloor with vinyl plank flooring as my floor. I have no smells or any other funkiness from the OSB. 3/4" Plywood is the only other option I would consider for your subfloor. YMMV...Good luck on the build!
 
highdesertranger said:
on the floor I use Ensolite closed cell foam. don't glue it to the floor this way if needed is can be removed and washed. if you want a hard floor over that use plywood. highdesertranger
Click to expand...

I googled ensolite and found it is used for a number of purposes, such as gaskets.

Is there a particular reason for that brand? Or is it a type.

Eg, is this essentially the same stuff?

Foam Mat Floor Tiles, Interlocking EVA Foam Padding by Stalwart – Soft Flooring for Exercising, Yoga, Camping, Kids, Babies, Playroom – 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DAOSLVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zXUOAb4K5KSD7

Thanks.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Regarding plywood subfloors, I’m curious- people talk about it being mo suite resistant, but I’m inclined to have no wood in my build at all. Cabinetry is plastic an aluminum, I’m going for kind of an airstream look.

The floor is unclear. Certainly in the winter the floor will be most exposed to water.

So my plan is, base layer thin strips of UHMWro fill in gaps where the sheet metal is corrugated, above that polyisocyanate, and another that sheet metal. Maybe 1/8 aluminum or 3/16ths. Something as rigid as 1/2” plywood. (And above that the closed cell foam I linked above.)

The aluminum doesn’t seem right to me- seems there should be a composite that would do a better job, but I haven’t found anything yet— the building industry loves its wood.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the info! I will skip the sound proofing and go with AB plywood at 1/2 inch. I agree about OSB, i was trying to save money and thinking the vinyl will protect it.
 
Artsyguy said:
I've NEVER regretted purchasing Fat Mat as sound deadener before building out the van.  It rides VERY quiet.  Doesn't take up ANY additional space, contrary to another post earlier (unless you count an 1/8" "space")...Between the Fat Mat and Polyiso insulation sheets and plank walls and ceilings, I'm very happy.  I didn't put any on the floor, but did do wheel wells, and 2/3 of walls and ceiling.  Full coverage is NOT needed.  I think it is less tiring when driving for 8-10 hours a day if you don't have to listen to your truck rattling down the highway.  Music sounds better.  Conversations without screaming is also nice.

Also, as a few others have commented, I wouldn't use 1/4" wood for your floor.  You want something thick enough that you can screw into to hold down fixtures inside your van.  I've got 5/8" OSB that was polyurethaned on both sides before laying down as my subfloor with vinyl plank flooring as my floor.  I have no smells or any other funkiness from the OSB.  3/4" Plywood is the only other option I would consider for your subfloor.  YMMV...Good luck on the build!
Click to expand...

Good point about the wheel wells. Next to window covers, wheel wells and roof are the next big areas; except I am leaving all Exterior insulation and walls until last to avoid putting on and taking off repeatedly. Window shades and wheel covers seem like mutually exclusive areas disjoint from exterior insulation, imo, so those are potential changes in the short term.

I am boot strap optimizing mine with expert vendors in each area one at a time, overlapped. I don't know what it will look like when I get to my external walls, yet, but it is starting to take shape nicely (but still looks relatively 'empty'.) It will hopefully just be plugging in the holes and gaps left over after I first fill gaps in with cabinets, shelves, and poly nets for storage requirements. Plastic poly walls looks like a good contender for a finishing exterior wall product if it is specifically designed as such with Air flow and humidity factored in.
 
I got some good information about sound deadening in this thread. Good stuff. Since AB is kinda spendy, you can consider the cheaper underlayment plywood because it doesn't have the voids that lesser grades of plywood have. I had the money at the time, so I bought the expensive stuff. Seems to me underlayment would work just fine. I stay away from marine grade plywood because it is so expensive. Non-marine grade plywood has served me quite well.
 
Ensolite is an excellent insulator. it is what old backpacking sleeping pads were made off. you can lay Ensolite on snow then your sleeping bag and not feel the cold underneath(1st hand experience). you used to be able to buy cheap it at surplus stores in the form of military sleeping pads. I haven't run across it lately. here's a site that sells it with a sticky side,

http://www.raamaudio.com/ensolite-i...ended-absolutely-the-best-foam-on-the-market/

it seems pricey but look at the specs it's 3 feet by 55.5 inches. I would not stick it to a floor in case it needs to be removed to wash. on the floor I would get the non peel and stick. that's what I have in my truck. highdesertranger

note, that product is only 1/8 inch I have 1/2 inch on my floor I would go with 1/2, if you look around you can find it in 1/2 inch.
 
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