I downloaded the user manual and studied it. It looks like the same charge controller that I have. The setting options are the same. The LCD display is the same. If it were mine I would do with it what I do with mine.
Pretend that words don't matter. Some used words are absorption, boost, bulk, float, rebulk, and more. Different companies use different words. Sometimes one company uses multiple words meaning the same thing. Generally the words go undefined in user's manuals.
The way mine works is there is one programmable charging voltage. When the sun is shining and the battery is lower than the set voltage the controller turns on, full on, 100% on. The maximum current the panel can make is delivered to the battery. When the battery voltage gets up to the set voltage it turns off. The battery voltage is maintained at the set voltage by rapidly turning on and off. The on time, the pulse width, is modulated (PWM) by how fast the battery voltage rises when connected and how fast it drops when it switches off. This depends on the battery state of charge and the loads connected.
Handy Bob and many other people complain about solar charge controllers deciding prematurely that a battery is full and stopping the charging process by switching to a lower voltage that protects the battery from any more charging.
My charge controller doesn't do that. It pulses on and off maintaining my battery at 14.4 volts. The controller is set to 14.6 and according to my meter the voltage at the battery (the voltage that really matters) is about 14.4. In Florida there's not much difference but in the winter I set it to 14.9 to get 14.6 to 14.7 at the battery. By 5 PM the sun drops behind trees or it rains and the solar charging stops.
There have been occasions when I have been away for more than a couple of days. What I do is turn off and clean out the fridge and lower the charging voltage to 14. That reduces the battery water consumption to almost zero.
The instructions that came with my solar charge controller use the word "float" for that charging voltage setting. That use of that word has nothing to do with how other people use that word. If you set your battery charging voltage to 13.6 or 13.8 because you think the word printed on the paper matters you will be disappointed by insufficient charging.
I didn't buy a $150 battery monitoring gizmo. I use a hydrometer monthly (1.275 to 1.285) when I add water. Water use of 20 to 30 ml per cell per month assures me that there is electrolysis happening when the battery gets some charving after it is full. My one battery is for the van engine starting, fridge, Maxxfan, led lights, cell phone, lap top, everything. Two years now with an $80 group size 24 deep cycle, not recommended for engine starting, Sam's Club battery and It hasn't failed to start yet.
So, that's what I set it to and how I monitor it. I'm quite pleased with the performance of my cheap system. It works for me.
