Solar kit assembly

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Van Lady

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I am requesting help in choosing good components to build a roof top solar system. I am trying to put together a kit of items needed. I am going to have help to install it mid February. I want to start purchasing needed items. The person helping me is coming from out of state. I need to have the necessary items here when he arrives. There will be no time to order and wait once he is here.

My van is a 2000 Dodge Ram B3500 (old church van).

I have 2-125 ah AGM batteries. There is an electrical system in the van, set up for solenoid and generator use.

Please let me know if the following list of components is inclusive of what would be needed other than the cables and fuse.

I believe I can get better quality not buying a commercial kit.

2-165 watt panels:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-165-Watt...Off-Grid-RV-Boat-165-watt-total-/262892327726

Then:

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I would appreciate input from those knowledgeable regarding solar installations.

Thank you!
 
That is a lot of money for a roof rack.
 
Yes, I wanted aluminum and it is specific to my 2000 Dodge van. I wish it was not so expensive.
What is your opinion of the other items?
 
My opinion?

Since there are so many different manufacturers of solar parts that all are competing, but putting out a quality product. ~~~. I would stick with one brand as then there is only one call to make to get everything fine tuned. 

You are willing to spend extra to get a aluminum rack, but want to pinch pennies on a system.    Call Renogy with your list and see what they can do. It is the job of the sales staff to make sure that a system is designed to work with the customers needs.  

Do the same with Northern Arizona Wind and Sun. Make a list and compare similar systems. 

Let us know what you are offered.
 
I have installed several of those kits. One I am currently useing. Substitute the Rover Controller for the Commander and you have a quality system for less.

As for better? Just as good in my opinion.
 
To properly build a system , you start with measurement / numbers .
Or what is called a site survey - this starts with what you want to power , then see if you can make your consumption more efficient - try not to use solar for heat & running motors .
Once you have numbers it just simple math , Ohms law to workout any issues .
??? you have not given any idea of what your consumption / electrical draws are ?
This seems to be the common [ wrong way ] that most start with .
Using solar in mobile is hard right off from the beginning , generally speaking not enough room for enough panels & batteries for what most want to do , so we are starting from a negative - that requires [ in most cases ] sacrificing a lot of what we hope for .
Your list is not bad , except for the design approach is left out , at least your post here , you may have done this , and just not told us ?
 
Could you please explain your choice of the Rover over the Commander?

The cost of building my own kit versus buying a commercial kit seems so close as to not really being a factor unless I am missing something.
 
The most important thing in a MPPT controller is the ability to fine tune the charging voltages and duration.

I suggest putting the kit together as you have and compare it with kits from Renogy, Eco-worthy, windynation, etc. That way you get to see what the difference in cost and quality there are. There will be differences in wire sizes, types of mounts, controllers and such. Some pieces in kits may be useless to you or need to be upgraded. You have to add that into the cost.

More important is how you came to decide that this is what you need. Solar is part of a balanced system which is hard to set up if you do not know what your needs will be.
 
To add

330 watts mounted flat is not a lot of power especially in the low sun of winter.
 
I see nothing wrong with the way you are doing it... here is what I bought for the system on our roof today. Two years ago I got a WAY better deal on 10g dual solar wire from a vendor in a tent!  http://observations-on-the-road.blogspot.com/2017/11/solar-on-bench.html 

I bought a bunch of nc4 connectors from Amazon, they were a good deal so I bought more than I needed (for when I mess one up putting it together).
Are you going to be at the RTR? Lot's of good deals on bits & pieces from the vendors there, like wire.
 
jimindenver said:
To add

330 watts mounted flat is not a lot of power especially in the low sun of winter.

It's a lot more than I had on my van & it did work ok.... but all I want to do is run led lights, the computer, the phones & things like that.
 
One thing I do not see in your list is a means of cutting of the feed from the panels to the controller. You will need this so that you can disconnect the panels from the controller before disconnecting the controller from the batteries. You might consider a breaker between the controller and batteries as it will be easier than a fuse that has to be pulled.
 
My power needs are not as great as many. I will NOT be on a laptop working each day. I will need to power my Dometic frig/freezer (the large one) 24/7. I will want to power my Max Air fan a lot during the summer. Other than that there will be daily charging of a phone, iPad and jet pack. I do have a 27 watt solar panel that can charge them also. Whenever I am moving the solenoid will be charging. My main need will be when camping for days without moving. I am mainly a follow the 70’s kind of camper. I am not full time.
Bob says to get as much solar as you can afford. This is my limit. 330 watts is as much solar as I can afford.
Do any of you know:
1) a reason why the items I had chosen for my system would not work?
2) if I forgot any items other than cable and a fuse?
3) if the Blue Sky charge controller would not be a good choice? Does it meet the ability to fine tune the charging voltages and duration requirement?

Unfortunately, I cannot attend the e RTR.
 
jimindenver said:
One thing I do not see in your list is a means of cutting of the feed from the panels to the controller. You will need this so that you can disconnect the panels from the controller before disconnecting the controller from the batteries. You might consider a breaker between the controller and batteries as it will be easier than a fuse that has to be pulled.


Thank you!
Could you please post a picture/link of what you mean? I am not clear what I would be looking for.
 
There are always incidental items needed like zipties, screws, tape, lugs, crimp connectors, cable clips, maybe U-bolts or something similar for the panels, wire loom, plus tools, (the normal ones), plus a caulking gun for that sealant, maybe a small holesaw or stepdrill for the cable entry, a small saw of some kind to cut a hole in plywood or paneling for the controller you linked, or make a box for it, etc.

Will these things be available where you are, or is your install guy bringing all that stuff?
 
Thank you for your comment!
We will have or can get those types of things locally. I live in a large metropolitan area.
Can you identify any problem with any of the items I listed? Is everything compatible?
My thought is, I get the items listed, then we follow one of the diagrams showing how to install them. My BIL is a very handy guy. I have a lot of faith in his ability.

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jimindenver said:
To add

330 watts mounted flat is not a lot of power especially in the low sun of winter.

What do you think of starting out with one of the kits (Renogy’s 100W Solar Suitcase) that you can direct towards the sun and adding more panels/batteries as you learn your needs? I know I need electric power, but can only guess how much. I need to have a CPAP from the beginning and want a low power 12 volt fridge as well. Putting flt panels on the roof seems a lot more convenient, but apparently not that efficient.
 
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