holly man i am freaking out, then calm, round en round. i have a 16' pull behind and a 02 pathfinder. i pulled the trailer for three hours to get it home and the pathfinder did not like that. tomorrow i am getting a 3/4 ton pickup with a topper. topper has racks on top so i can put solar panels up there. i am asking you fine people ...will this work to have the batteries and panels on the truck and run a cord to the trailer. also to use an inverter so run 120 volt in trailer? nervous smile.
solar from truck to trailer
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Almost There
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Yes and yes, you can use solar on the truck and power the house battery system in the trailer.
BUT you'll need a bit of a beefed up wiring system!
Think of it and design it like a portable system, which in a way it is.
You might be better off putting the batteries and everything else right near the trailer and running the power cords between the two vehicles. That would minimize the size of power cords you need.
You're always better off using 12V instead of 120 but if you have to you have to. Get the smallest inverter (or more than 1) that will power the lowest wattage 120 appliances you can. I have a 400W inverter hard wired to a couple of 120 outlets but it's got a switch built in that I can reach from the living quarters that shuts it down if not in use. I also have a 100 watt portable that plugs in to a marinco 12v outlet that sees a whole lot more use than the big one does.
Just don't drive off with the cord still attached and the trailer parked....
Don't laugh it's been done!
BUT you'll need a bit of a beefed up wiring system!
Think of it and design it like a portable system, which in a way it is.
You might be better off putting the batteries and everything else right near the trailer and running the power cords between the two vehicles. That would minimize the size of power cords you need.
You're always better off using 12V instead of 120 but if you have to you have to. Get the smallest inverter (or more than 1) that will power the lowest wattage 120 appliances you can. I have a 400W inverter hard wired to a couple of 120 outlets but it's got a switch built in that I can reach from the living quarters that shuts it down if not in use. I also have a 100 watt portable that plugs in to a marinco 12v outlet that sees a whole lot more use than the big one does.
Just don't drive off with the cord still attached and the trailer parked....
Don't laugh it's been done!ok... im thinking... of my rv as any land locked home and that land home just plugs in and runs 120v, with or without battery.when i plug the rv in to my land house i can run everything, i think so far i have not pluged it in! i get BEEFED up wiring. well not how to but that it must be done. so with 600 watts and a 2000 inverter and a week of amp hours, shut off switch. i'm good. yes? i have driven off with the speaker in the window at a drive in!Almost There said:Yes and yes, you can use solar on the truck and power the house battery system in the trailer.
BUT you'll need a bit of a beefed up wiring system!
Think of it and design it like a portable system, which in a way it is.
You might be better off putting the batteries and everything else right near the trailer and running the power cords between the two vehicles. That would minimize the size of power cords you need.
You're always better off using 12V instead of 120 but if you have to you have to. Get the smallest inverter (or more than 1) that will power the lowest wattage 120 appliances you can. I have a 400W inverter hard wired to a couple of 120 outlets but it's got a switch built in that I can reach from the living quarters that shuts it down if not in use. I also have a 100 watt portable that plugs in to a marinco 12v outlet that sees a whole lot more use than the big one does.
Just don't drive off with the cord still attached and the trailer parked....
Almost There
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campurrr said:
Ahhh, but running a trailer off solar is radically different than living in a sticks and bricks home.
In a solar set up you are responsible for creating every little bit of power that you use. You have to replace it if you want to be able to use it the next day. Essentially you are your own power company. Yes, solar is free to use once you've got it set up but it has to be set up properly and attended to regularly. It's not a plug and play situation at all.
Your trailer may very well be wired for almost all or completely all 120V wiring. Some of the RV mfrs are doing that now since so many new owners never go further than the RV resort style environment where they just plug in and use it like they would a home.
But for those of us who avoid the expensive RV resorts and rarely if ever see an electrical hook up, the game is a bit different. Solar panels are normally set up to charge 12V batteries and converting to 120V for everything in a whole trailer comes at a price.
The wattage of the solar has to be matched to the size of the battery bank, wiring, controller etc. and the inverter needs to be sized to what you're going to use.
First step is figuring out what your normal usage is going to be in terms of hours of use and wattage of appliances/lights etc.
highdesertranger
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also conserving power is always easier then making power. highdesertranger
highdesertranger said:
hi to you, i am going to admit that i am sick. i need low humidity to breath. i am running my ac at home right now and it;s 53 outside, i use a dehumidifier most of the time. my hope is that i can get solar enough to come to the rtr to follow you all around eavesdrop on every conversation on boondocking see if i can breath better in the dry air. i may b be able to work next summer in minnesota or not. i don't know how i saw bobs videos but i awoke from trying to figure i might die to trying to figure out how to live in a travel trailer. i'm sorry to say all this but i don.t want anyone to think i just want to plug in and have a good time. this is a big hope for me as i saw myself becoming disabled and homeless. i'm thinking i may need more power than a healthy camper. i do so appreciate the help. this site and you people remind me of the long ago years. so really thank you i hope you understand my power needs.
campurrr said:
There is at least one gentleman who participates here who has a large panel on his truck/SUV. In his case, it is in ADDITION to the panels on the roof of his trailer. The batteries , however, are in his trailer.
Hopefully, he will chime in. But yes, unquestionably, it can be done. How to do it, I am not the expert on that. There are far better people on this forum to assist with that. From what I know, "Almost There" is giving you very accurate info.
I understand that you have medical issues that demand a certain level of electrical service. I wish you the best, and hope to see you at the RTR.
Regards,
Pat
Also, unless you get a 3/4 ton pickup with a 6 cylinder engine, I think you got enough power for the battteries to reside in your trailer. Again, there are more expert people here than me, but I wish I had a 3/4 ton. I'm pulling with an F150. And I feel sorry for my suspension.
highdesertranger
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believe me my comment about conserving power was in no way meant as a disparaging remark at you. I say it to a lot of people and it's true, it was meant for everybody.
so lets start over and start figuring out what your power needs are. start by making a list of everything you need power for. post it up here and we can help. it would help us tremendously if you could list the power consumption for the devices. highdesertranger
so lets start over and start figuring out what your power needs are. start by making a list of everything you need power for. post it up here and we can help. it would help us tremendously if you could list the power consumption for the devices. highdesertranger
frater secessus
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campurrr said:
This kind of setup was in the final running when I was choosing a platform. I was thinking:
- Tacoma 4wd
- full rack (going over topper and cab, too), allowing up to about 1000w of panel
- A-liner or similar with upgraded smart converter
Like you, I kept turning the umbillical problem over and over in my head.
My final thoughts were a big solar array on the rack, 24v bank in the bed, and 24v inverter. Power would go to the trailer as 110v with an extension cord. This would allow 50'+ of separation for shade/sun concerns, and the 24v inverter is more efficient than a 12v version. Power enters the trailer at the shore power outlet and feeds the converter; as far as the trailer knows it's hooked up to a power pedestal.
frater secessus said:
well yah so what did you do??? thats what i want.. my truck to be the plugin. with 600watts and a2000v inverter. right so another guy at rtr told meeeee today he has 1200watts and one panel is on the truck 3 on the trailer. but i don't know what he does for inverter or converter. but i wiiil let him be and ask him in a day.
frater secessus
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campurrr said:
I bought the eurovan rig in my signature below. Mounted 570W of solar on the roof. The lack of passthrough is what finally pulled me away from the truck-trailer combo.
jimindenver
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Three panels on the trailer, one on the truck.....hey wait, that's me. hehe
The panel on the truck is just the 435w panel and a set of 50 ft 10 gauge MC4 cables to allow me to get the truck out in the sun and move it around tracking. Those cables go to the front of the trailer and connect to a set of 8 gauge that run under the trailer to the back storage area where they come up through the floor to the trucks Morningstar TS-MPPT-45 charge controller. The three on the roof are currently in series running into the rear storage to a TS-MPPT-60 charge controller. Both controllers run to the three Lifeline 8-D AGM's forming a 675 Ah bank. To that is connected a 1250w inverter and the house systems.
I do not have batteries or the controller in the truck. I could if I ever wanted to use the truck as a short term camper in places the trailer can not go. I tried a trip with the bank in the truck but it was a hassle to feed both the 12v and the shore cord not to mention the trailer losing power any time the truck was away.
The nice thing about my systems is that the trailer can do everything on the three 250w panels on the roof. The panel on the truck can support on its own if the trailer is shaded. Together they are a rolling power station that can do many of the thing others will instantly tell you that you can not do.
The panel on the truck is just the 435w panel and a set of 50 ft 10 gauge MC4 cables to allow me to get the truck out in the sun and move it around tracking. Those cables go to the front of the trailer and connect to a set of 8 gauge that run under the trailer to the back storage area where they come up through the floor to the trucks Morningstar TS-MPPT-45 charge controller. The three on the roof are currently in series running into the rear storage to a TS-MPPT-60 charge controller. Both controllers run to the three Lifeline 8-D AGM's forming a 675 Ah bank. To that is connected a 1250w inverter and the house systems.
I do not have batteries or the controller in the truck. I could if I ever wanted to use the truck as a short term camper in places the trailer can not go. I tried a trip with the bank in the truck but it was a hassle to feed both the 12v and the shore cord not to mention the trailer losing power any time the truck was away.
The nice thing about my systems is that the trailer can do everything on the three 250w panels on the roof. The panel on the truck can support on its own if the trailer is shaded. Together they are a rolling power station that can do many of the thing others will instantly tell you that you can not do.
yes it is you. your dog is smarter than he looks. here's what i did not know; my rv has a converter! i don't know 110 from 120v! so i was thinking bare bones VAN not prewired travel trailer. Bobs voice is in my head like the theme song Green Acers. here is whats already in the trailer ac on the roof 15 amps water heater 12 microwave 15 frig 3.5 has a propane furnace no idea what the fan on that uses a motor fan in bath room don't know what it uses the book lists things i may have, which i do not know if i have or not... heart inverter/charger 22 amps magnetek charger 14 . i have not gotten yet but will before i leave is a compression fridge fantastic fan panels, batteries induction cooktop . i would like to run my pc at top 225watt monitor 20-40? i have a laptop that needs a new battery i use it now plugged in all the time so a coffee pot 2-3 amps? but these things are 100 0r120v? mr power house can do anything as will i? i have a boat business 1/2 mile from my house and a gulf cart business across the street and a rv place up the road from there so if i know what batteries to use i should find them here. i hope to have solar enough to boondock at rtr and spend all winter redoing everything 3 maybe 4 times. ha. as to which i want to take the fridge out now to make more room. if i take it out in AZ how will i dispose of it same with toilet and bathroom sink. please how do i stop putting these sentences all mashed together! do you need to know details about the converter? also GOOD AFTERNOON to y0u and you and you
highdesertranger
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ok lets try to break this down,
1. AC
2. water heater
3. microwave
4. induction cook top
all of these will require a huge battery bank and a lot of solar to run or a generator or plugged in.
refrigerator should be a 3-way and can run on propane. can only run on 120v when plugged in or genny and 12v while driving.
the lap top try to find a 12 volt cord for it.
coffee is much more efficient made on propane.
so the lap top, lights, phone charging, and other small loads can all be run off a 100-200 watt solar with 100-200AH batteries.
I am confused about the converter, charger, inverter. can you be more specific? what do you have now?
highdesertranger
1. AC
2. water heater
3. microwave
4. induction cook top
all of these will require a huge battery bank and a lot of solar to run or a generator or plugged in.
refrigerator should be a 3-way and can run on propane. can only run on 120v when plugged in or genny and 12v while driving.
the lap top try to find a 12 volt cord for it.
coffee is much more efficient made on propane.
so the lap top, lights, phone charging, and other small loads can all be run off a 100-200 watt solar with 100-200AH batteries.
I am confused about the converter, charger, inverter. can you be more specific? what do you have now?
highdesertranger
jimindenver
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The converter powers the 12 volt systems in the trailer as well as provide a charge to the batteries when the shore cord is plugged into shore power or a generator. Details on it would assist in choosing a generator and to understand what kind of charge it is giving your batteries.
Running your Roof A/C requires a generator unless you have a lot more solar than I do OR have a 12v unit costing a few grand. As it is I run a small 5000 BTU window unit. I recently upgraded it to a newer model that pulls 410w or less. I could have gone for a 6000 BTU unit that pulled 500 watts except it is too big for the application I would use it in.
I do have a electric heating rod in my water heater, it is a aftermarket 6 gallon Hott rod that pulls 450w.
I don't have a induction hot plate, what I have is a small dual burner electric stove that the smaller burner pulls 470w.
The electric side of my propane fridge pulls 462w. The control board uses a trickle at 12v no matter what mode it is in. I also run a Engel 12v 40 quart freezer.
When I am alone I use a moka pot for coffee, when in a group I use a 12 cup Mr Coffee auto drip.
My furnace pulls around 8 amps at 12v when running.
I use a 900w microwave pulling 1375w daily but want to replace it with a lower watt version that will run off the power the system puts off instead of draining the batteries.
For electronics I currently run a 17 inch laptop, a 10 inch tablet, a 24 inch TV, a firestick, up to 6 hotspots/phones, a booster, keep various batteries charged to shavers, cameras, run the exhaust fans and a 20 inch 120v box fan. I will likely get my computer tower out of storage but will not be just leaving it on all the time.
You might notice that almost everything outside of the coffee maker and microwave are under 500w. That is because I designed it all to run under the radar of the batteries when the solar system is running. I can run any of them with just the trailers system, any two with the truck connected too. The most I have had on was the water heater, the fridge on 120v, the freezer, a exhaust fan and the neighbors RV plugged in using the trailer as shore power to charge his battery. On top of that I heated two frozen burritos in the microwave for four minutes.
As far as guts go, I don't have issues running any power tool that can be plugged into you average household outlet. I carry a half inch drill, a sawzall, a circular saw, grinder and more because battery operated tool just do not compare.
A system like this can do a lot for you if the sun plays well enough, At full power I see over 80 amps of usable power at 12v. That is more power than a 800w/100w inverter generator puts out and a lot more surge capacity. It isn't cheap, it isn't small and it doesn't come in a kit.
So what did you want to run again? I would think that some of the numbers you provided are at 120v.
Running your Roof A/C requires a generator unless you have a lot more solar than I do OR have a 12v unit costing a few grand. As it is I run a small 5000 BTU window unit. I recently upgraded it to a newer model that pulls 410w or less. I could have gone for a 6000 BTU unit that pulled 500 watts except it is too big for the application I would use it in.
I do have a electric heating rod in my water heater, it is a aftermarket 6 gallon Hott rod that pulls 450w.
I don't have a induction hot plate, what I have is a small dual burner electric stove that the smaller burner pulls 470w.
The electric side of my propane fridge pulls 462w. The control board uses a trickle at 12v no matter what mode it is in. I also run a Engel 12v 40 quart freezer.
When I am alone I use a moka pot for coffee, when in a group I use a 12 cup Mr Coffee auto drip.
My furnace pulls around 8 amps at 12v when running.
I use a 900w microwave pulling 1375w daily but want to replace it with a lower watt version that will run off the power the system puts off instead of draining the batteries.
For electronics I currently run a 17 inch laptop, a 10 inch tablet, a 24 inch TV, a firestick, up to 6 hotspots/phones, a booster, keep various batteries charged to shavers, cameras, run the exhaust fans and a 20 inch 120v box fan. I will likely get my computer tower out of storage but will not be just leaving it on all the time.
You might notice that almost everything outside of the coffee maker and microwave are under 500w. That is because I designed it all to run under the radar of the batteries when the solar system is running. I can run any of them with just the trailers system, any two with the truck connected too. The most I have had on was the water heater, the fridge on 120v, the freezer, a exhaust fan and the neighbors RV plugged in using the trailer as shore power to charge his battery. On top of that I heated two frozen burritos in the microwave for four minutes.
As far as guts go, I don't have issues running any power tool that can be plugged into you average household outlet. I carry a half inch drill, a sawzall, a circular saw, grinder and more because battery operated tool just do not compare.
A system like this can do a lot for you if the sun plays well enough, At full power I see over 80 amps of usable power at 12v. That is more power than a 800w/100w inverter generator puts out and a lot more surge capacity. It isn't cheap, it isn't small and it doesn't come in a kit.
So what did you want to run again? I would think that some of the numbers you provided are at 120v.
sorry guys, i don't understand. on a video of bobs with Randy. sorry if i should not use a name, i don't see a video number for the interview. randy has a plain coffee pot, toaster. he has the new wave pickpro induction cooktop and whynter 12v fridge. he demonstrated a small washer. talked about 200-300 watts of panels with a pure sine inverter 1200 to run this stuff. perhaps ac is out of the question and a rv dehumidifier will work. i am really not getting any of this. i thought i did but no. can we start over....... i don't know what to ask. this is what i have 2004 gulf stream ameri lite 17BW and a 03 3/4 ton truck. there is a converter in the trailer with this information on it panel input; 120vac 60hz 30amp converter input;105-130vac,780 watts output; 13.6 vdc, 45 amp [inc charging and load] there is a battery on the hitch 24dc 130/150 min @ 23 amps. i don,t intend to use the fridge or microwave i have money put aside for solar i have to put some panels on the truck cuz trailer is small unless 2 400watt panels will work with a boat load of batteries. i feel really bad here. this should be rather easy. :blush:
