Simple wiring diagram feedback
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B and C
Well-known member
Quickly off the top of my head, I don't see a fuse for the house battery.
Oh, and welcome. Why don't you drop by the newcomers corner and start a thread to introduce yourself.
Oh, and welcome. Why don't you drop by the newcomers corner and start a thread to introduce yourself.
bass_sears
Active member
As noted above, you need a fuse coming off your battery. In fact, most suggestions I would make are that you need some more fusing in various places, this all looks quite good to me (caveat: I'm no expert, you paid nothing for this post and it's worth less than that 
)
To clarify (because this helped in my head), fuses are to protect wires not items at the end of the wire, so every time you have a new wire heading off from somewhere you should have a fuse protecting it. A great, easy style of fuse to use are these MRBF fuse holders:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
... they can hold various fuse sizes (make sure each wire is sized correctly for the max load that will be on it, then you size the fuse to protect that wire), and you can even get doubles like this: https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A and you can mount them on bus bars / battery posts etc.
So my suggestions would be:
1) Fuse just off the positive battery post... I was recommended to use a Class T fuse, bought a Blue Sea fuse holder to hold it: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5502/Class_T_Fuse_Block_with_Insulating_Cover_-_225_to_400A
2) After the fuse on the house battery to + bus bar wire, but before the positive bus bar, a cut off switch is really nice to have... check out Blue Sea 6004:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6004/Single_Circuit_ON-OFF_with_Locking_Key_-_Red
... this way any time you work on the system you can just turn the battery off, not accessing battery and undoing any ring connectors, and if you have a problem you can shut the whole system down very quickly.
3) Need fuse on the wire from the positive bus bar to the 12v fuse block, have to protect that wire (you can't count on the presumably larger Class T fuse to protect the possibly smaller wires downstream of the bus bar).
4) For same reason as #3 you should have fuse on positive bus bar to dc-to-dc charger wire.
5) Not sure if you have already bought wire or not, if not since you have a relatively sophisticated, mixed AC/DC system, consider adopting the ABYC wire color standards that use yellow for 12v negative, so as not to confuse a black 12v negative with a black 120v hot.
6) Where is your "to a/c" wire out going, breaker box? Make sure your shore power converter has built in fuse / breaker to protect that AC out line, if not that line needs to be protected somehow.
-- Bass
)To clarify (because this helped in my head), fuses are to protect wires not items at the end of the wire, so every time you have a new wire heading off from somewhere you should have a fuse protecting it. A great, easy style of fuse to use are these MRBF fuse holders:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
... they can hold various fuse sizes (make sure each wire is sized correctly for the max load that will be on it, then you size the fuse to protect that wire), and you can even get doubles like this: https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A and you can mount them on bus bars / battery posts etc.
So my suggestions would be:
1) Fuse just off the positive battery post... I was recommended to use a Class T fuse, bought a Blue Sea fuse holder to hold it: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5502/Class_T_Fuse_Block_with_Insulating_Cover_-_225_to_400A
2) After the fuse on the house battery to + bus bar wire, but before the positive bus bar, a cut off switch is really nice to have... check out Blue Sea 6004:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/6004/Single_Circuit_ON-OFF_with_Locking_Key_-_Red
... this way any time you work on the system you can just turn the battery off, not accessing battery and undoing any ring connectors, and if you have a problem you can shut the whole system down very quickly.
3) Need fuse on the wire from the positive bus bar to the 12v fuse block, have to protect that wire (you can't count on the presumably larger Class T fuse to protect the possibly smaller wires downstream of the bus bar).
4) For same reason as #3 you should have fuse on positive bus bar to dc-to-dc charger wire.
5) Not sure if you have already bought wire or not, if not since you have a relatively sophisticated, mixed AC/DC system, consider adopting the ABYC wire color standards that use yellow for 12v negative, so as not to confuse a black 12v negative with a black 120v hot.
6) Where is your "to a/c" wire out going, breaker box? Make sure your shore power converter has built in fuse / breaker to protect that AC out line, if not that line needs to be protected somehow.
-- Bass
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