Should I go for a portable kit or get a more complicated kit?

[citytravelfotos]

I have a high top conversion van that has a fiberglass roof and a fancy roof inside (that is separate from the fiberglass roof.) I'm wondering if it's worth it to try to get some help and go through the hassle of trying to install one of the larger (but better value) solar panels on top.

My current issues are that I need to recharge a laptop (6300 mah), tablet, cellphone, headphones, two camera batteries, a few smaller things.

I've also been using battery powered accent lights in my van. It'd be nice to have power for a TV.

If I get some of the portable solar panels, I can only get like 15 watt ones. I was thinking of laying them out on the dash, but I'm wondering if the windshield glass will significantly lessen the charging potential.

Installing some of the larger solar panels will require me to find some help. I'm thinking of going to the RTR and I don't know if someone is going there with some expertise on this.

 

[cyndi]

There's an RTR Help Exchange tthread
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-RTR-Help-exchange

 

[Almost There]

I have a high top fiberglass roof on my Savana that was there when I bought it.

Aside from the idiot that owned it not using ANY type of sealant in the installation, I'm having it removed from the roof.

My reasons for removing and not replacing the rooftop solar system are:

- I like parking in the shade whenever I can.
- At least half the year I anticipate being in forested areas.
- I can't reach the middle of the windshield, let alone the top of the high top roof so I am completely unable to clean and do any maintenance on the panels.

I'm going with portable panels that I can set out in the sun in my campsite whenever and wherever I want.

 

[jimindenver]

Ok there are a number of options here. First 15w is useless except to keep a disconnected battery from self discharging. There are ways to decide on how much solar to get, and it's probably cheaper than you think.

Your roof is fiberglass, they make none drill, glue mounts that can make installing easier.

I would stay away from the high dollar solar kits with lots of GREEN advertising. You really don't get anything more for the money except the advertising. For $200 you can get a basic 100w portable solar kit that folds when not in use and is plug and play. Clip the leads to the battery and put the panels in the sun. Other sizes are available for around $2 a watt including shipping.

You can get kits of all sizes for mounting. Their components will be different than the portables but still around $2 a watt. They come with mounting hardware, you would have to get the glue mounts if you went that way.

Each have their advantages and disadvantages. A portable can be aimed at the sun all day and will collect twice what the same watts on the roof can. It can also be a hassle to set up, store, may grow legs and you get no charging while it's stored.

Mounted panels are always working and hands off for the most part. It is a hassle to mount them and they only get full power mid day, so you have to mount twice as much to get the same power.

Three things to consider is how much room you have for a portable or on your roof. How much battery will the solar need to be able to maintain and how much power you use.

Every panel or kit you look at will have it's size so that you know what you will be storing or mounting. Cut a card board cut out of that size and see how it fits.

One rule of thumb is one watt to one and a half watts per Ah of battery. That way the solar can get the battery recharged in an acceptable amount of time when needed. It is very bad for batteries to sit partially charged, you need enough solar to do the job quickly.

Determining your power needs can be done in a few ways. One is to account for each devices draw and for how long, total them all up for a 24 hour period.

We used our camper for a few season and I would check the resting voltage every morning. The drop in voltage gave me a rough idea of the Ah's we were using.

The best way is a amp hour meter that will count every amp in and out of the battery, these are costly.

However you decide, account for your use on the worse day. You know bad weather, stuck inside, running the heater, watching TV, etc. That's the day you need to be prepared for. As always a back up means of charging is prudent because Mr sun doesn't always want to come out and play.

The last thing is to consider your conditions and time of year. Solar doesn't work in the shade, puts out little in the clouds and winter days are shorter than summer. All things to consider.

I hope it helps and that I haven't scared you off. A simple $200 100w portable is a great way to get your feet wet and start learning about solar. That is IF it fills your needs.

 

[akrvbob]

Jimindenvr gave an excellent answer!

Let me narrow it down:

1) If you have the skill for the whole install, you could use 3M tape to tape down a panel on the roof.
2) Just buy Renology 100 watt or 200 watt kit and set the panels outside and move them inside every time you move.
3) Buy a 100 watt Renology Folding suitcase style kit. It costs more per watt but is much easier to work with:
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Foldable-Suitcase-Battery-Charger/dp/B00HR8YNK6/

I have a friend here in camp who is going through the exact situation you are and she just ordered the Renology 200 watt kit. They are perfect for boondocking but you can't use them in city or on the road. Also, every time you go into town you have to tear them down and stow them inside unless you are with a group.

If you have the money to spare, I'd get the suitcase. On a tight budget, get the kit.

I have a friend with 4 of the Renology panels and he just sets them out. Whole story here: http://www.cheaprvliving.com/blog/living-truck-camper-truck-camper-sale/ Pics below

he put a door hinge on two of them to make them folding pic here:

You can set them up to use a standard 110 outdoor cord:

 

[highdesertranger]

all good advice so far. here is my experience. I have 4 panels, 15w permanently mounted, 50w mobile, 2 80w mobile. the 2 80s are hinged in an aluminum case I built for them. they are a pain to move around and set up. the 50w is easy peasy to move around and set up. moral of the story, if you have them mobile make sure they are easy to move around the 50-60w range ones are great for this. highdesertranger

 

[jimindenver]

Ummm These are my portables

The twin 245w mono's that I was going to mount

The 230w poly

At 50 pounds each they are not a issue for me to handle. I bet I don't take 30 minutes to set all three up and seconds to adjust occasionally. Great for setting up for a week or two, lousy for travelling. Mounted definately have the advantage there.

ALTHOUGH.... I have traveled with the 230w strapped to the rack on the truck. It wouldn't be hard to not only secure it up there and connect it as we went down the road.

 

[highdesertranger]

yeah but mine are in a case to protect them while driving off road. I should have made 2 cases. here's a pic of them set up.

they weigh well over 100lbs. btw this is at sunset that's why they are shaded. highdesertranger

 

[jimindenver]

Those sit padded in the walk way and our off roading is VERY slow. There are limitations to what I'm willing to do with a 25 ft trailer.

 

[highdesertranger]

believe me I am no desert racer but I don't have a cushy place to put them. that's why I made the case. highdesertranger

 

[citytravelfotos]

The Renogy looks nice but unfortunately I spend most of my time in cities. If not solar then probably the only thing I can do is route power from the alternator or battery into a second battery.

 

[jimindenver]

Cities are fine as long as you are not parked next to a sky scrapper. I would definitely go mounted though. VHB tape would make for a easy install and you wouldn't have to worry about them.

Here is a ebay page for 200w kits for mounting. They start at $275 with free shipping. I do know of a fella on a RV forum that got one and seems quite happy. you would have to get the tape if you wanted to do that.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+solar+kit&_nkw=solar+panel+kit+200w&_sacat=0

 

[SoulRaven]

I added the 100 watt Renology Folding suitcase to my wish list yesterday and the price dropped 10% to $242.99 today!

 

[jimindenver]

Renogy, Eco-worthy, windy nation all have about the same thing. I usually suggest which ever is offering the best price at the time. Right now that looks to be Eco-worthy for $199 shipped.

It would be a good idea to pick up a spare controller for these kits. For $30 you will have a back up IF anything goes wrong.

 

[akrvbob]

To attach one to your roof, Renlogy makes a flexible 100 watt panel that you could get the 3M tape and tape it down. It all depends on if you have a large enough, relatively flat spot for it. It's advantage is it will follow some curves.
Bob

 

[becida]

Take a look at the pictures Bob put up, that's a mounted system that's not mounted. The hinge between the two panels is a great idea! If this doesn't work out you can always have it mounted. A 15w panel is pretty small, with a couple of 100+w panels you'd have some real power.

 

[citytravelfotos]

Would waterproof duct tape be good enough to tape down a flexible solar panel?

Also, there's still the issue of getting the cord inside the van...

 

[jimindenver]

The panel will be subject to considerable forces under way and in storms. I would make sure to secure it properly or it may become a danger to some one else. VHB tape makes duct tape look like scotch tape in comparison.

Not sure if you can still track them down but a pair of Uni-solar 64 watt strips would glue right to the shell and you can walk on them. They are probably the best thing for getting "something" out of less than ideal situations.

On our trailer we have options for getting the solar wire into the cabin. The fridge vent and waste tank vent stacks are two of them. If you have a normal RV vent up top, I have seen people run the wire under the edge of the cap, thru the rim of the base and into the cabin. Last resort is it would probably fit thru the weather stripping on a door without too much crimping. Drilling a hole isn't the end of the world as long as you seal it properly.

 

[TucsonAZ]

You could side of back mount a panel with an aluminum cover that goes over the class, do a couple hinges connecting the panel to the top and a couple connecting the cover on the bottom of the panel. This would allow you to protect the panel while not in use and also adjust the angle it's at as you could fold down the cover and use that to prop it up, or drive with the panel flat and cover down if the sun is in the right spot.