Shore power outlet

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Vagabound said:
HDR/Hepcat: I liked what I was reading about using 30 amp. And then later I wondered why that would be necessary. I understand the point about it being the standard at RV parks and campgrounds, but wouldn't the normal procedure just be attaching a small adapter at the power pole end of this thing, and not at the rig? That would mean that the rig would not need any 30 amp type plugs and I would just be running normal construction-type extension cords from the power pole to the rig. I'm completely new to this, so maybe I'm looking at it all wrong.

I guess I should also say that I'm imagining that I can get by with 15 amp service inside the rig. I really don't know what would push me over that limit to needing 30 amp, but I don't ever plan to use air conditioning, for example, at the moment.

Tom

99% of the time you'll likely use much less than 15 amps and if you use a breaker box with two circuits with breakers, they'll be 15 amps each.  But the 30 amp setup is "standard," and in terms of the entire cost of the buildout, doesn't cost significantly more than a 15 amp or 20 amp setup.  And you WILL be able to use two 15 amp circuits if you want... allowing you to add A/C at some future date should you want to.  This is the time to build the infrastructure in.  As I said, it's cheaper and easier to do it now than re-do it later.  Your entire setup from the power pedestal to the circuit breaker box will be capable of handling 30 amp service if you build it that way. And no, it's not just a matter of up-sizing the connector at the pedestal; 30 amp wiring and fixtures are significantly heavier materials.

And yes, you use the 15 amp to 30 amp cord adapter at the power pedestal; but you only need to if a 30 amp outlet isn't available; a rare occurrence.  You can also buy Marinco-style 15 amp cords for the connector.  I use one at home with a 15 amp extension cord because I don't have a 30amp RV outlet at my house.  It's nice in the winter because I have a 15amp cord that stays flexible in sub-freezing temps... the standard 30amp cords aren't so forgiving.
 
Vagabound said:
HDR/Hepcat: I liked what I was reading about using 30 amp. And then later I wondered why that would be necessary. I understand the point about it being the standard at RV parks and campgrounds, but wouldn't the normal procedure just be attaching a small adapter at the power pole end of this thing, and not at the rig? That would mean that the rig would not need any 30 amp type plugs and I would just be running normal construction-type extension cords from the power pole to the rig. I'm completely new to this, so maybe I'm looking at it all wrong.

I guess I should also say that I'm imagining that I can get by with 15 amp service inside the rig. I really don't know what would push me over that limit to needing 30 amp, but I don't ever plan to use air conditioning, for example, at the moment.

A 30 amp setup would leave far more flexibility for future expansion if you should decide your needs have changed.

That said, it would cost more money right now.  You would need the first three items, and the fourth would be a highly desirable option:

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Po...2273640&sr=8-23&keywords=30+amp+rv+power+cord

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-30RP...2273761&sr=8-13&keywords=30+amp+rv+power+cord

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55223-...3730&sr=8-3&keywords=30+amp+to+15+amp+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUU5YU?ref_=ams_ad_dp_asin_2
 
Sorry, as I mentioned in another link, I haven't figured out how to post links.

But Sternwake had the Noco genious listed in one of his posts. Let's see if this works :

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-GCP1-...YBFDE2KW41

Nope, that didn't work either.

Just search for "Noco genious GCP1 Black 13 amp 125v ac port plug" it took one 2" diameter drill bit and then pull it through. No sealant. It has three little screws to secure it. But the nice rubber basket takes care of it all. No leaks even with a hose lined at it.
 
Plenty of posts on what to use so I'll go with where.

"Standard" campground location of power/water /dump is on the driver side.
Power and water "usually" at the rear and sewer mid way between back and front.
BUT , from many years of experience........
It won't always be so!!!! (sometimes more often not)
Carry extra cord/hose(s) for the oddball places..you WILL need them.
 
Here's the pic I just took of the back bumper and all my hook-ups.

The one on the left is the trailer wiring connector, the middle is for the solar and the one on the right is for 120.

It's a 15amp hookup so I can use regular extension cords and I always carry a 30 to 15 adapter plug for at the pole. It's easier IMO to use it, I never need more power than 15 amp circuits anyways and when I'm catching some power at friends' homes I never need to worry about connecting to their outdoor plug. It also works best with the generator.

bumper electrical.jpg

Yeah, I know, it's a little dusty back there...shoot me, I've been on the road since March 21st.... :D
 

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the reason I said go with the 30 amp was for the heavy duty aspect. it's always easy and safer to step down then it is to step up. highdesertranger
 
I went with a 30amp SmartPlug on my build and made up my own cord set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C...lug+30+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41Z1C4WQh-L&ref=plSrch

Drilling the hole in the body is the hard part, you can never go back. Drill the hole in a peice of plywood first to make sure its sized correctly.

In an RV the biggest power hog is going to be the A/C unit. RV campground hookups typically have 50amp, 30amp and 15amp outlets at the power pedestal. The 15amp will be a GFCI outlet. If your not running A/C, a 15amp outlet is all you need.

There's two ways to go on the cordset. Build with a 15amp plug on the end and source a 15amp to 30amp adapter. Or build with a 30amp plug on the end and source a 30amp to 15amp adapter. One or the other should cover you where ever you go. Mexico being the exception. Nothing is to code down there.
 
A final thought.  You need to test any outlet before you plug into it.  You'd be surprised how many campground outlets are mis-wired by the camp "handyman" or have other problems.  Low voltage is a particular problem in full campgrounds when it's hot and everyone is trying to run their air conditioners.

At a minimum, you need one of those three light outlet testers to test for reversed wires.  A built in GFCI tester is also highly desirable.  I also have a little plug in voltmeter to check the voltage.  And I've been able to combine the two on one of those three outlet taps so I plug them in as a single unit.  I use a 15 to 30 amp adapter if I need to check a 30 amp outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-...8-2&keywords=rv+cord+adapter+30+amp+to+15+amp

https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-P...675&sr=8-19&keywords=electrical+outlet+tester

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-80-300V...=1492336023&sr=8-1&keywords=plug+in+voltmeter

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Heavy-Dut..._rd_wg=C1AAX&refRID=DS0Z1FD4DE94Y9XTNVQS&th=1
 
^
Consider checking the power pedestal as part of your pre-setup site selection.
 
Thanks, all, for the great info on this topic so far

AT: I appreciate that photo. Now I understand what you have done. Thanks a lot for taking the time to take it and post it.

Tom
 
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