Rear Ventilation system in E350 Passenger Van?

[lifemonkey]

Okay, so I'm stripping out the paneling in my van in order to properly insulate and since it has rear ventilation, I'm a bit perplexed about what to do with everything. 

I've watched a few different YouTube videos where some have taken it out, but quite honestly, I don't know enough about this whole system to know what exactly I would be affecting by doing that. 

Does anyone have any expertise / advice surrounding this system? If I remove it, will I no longer have any A/C (even in front)? If I remove it, should I just go ahead and remove all the vents from the ceiling as well? Can I maintain the electrical wiring to reuse for something? 

Should I disconnect the battery before I do anything? I imagine everything is live and pulling energy from the alternator while running, but when not running, I'm not sure. 

Ultimately, my thinking is I would like to remove all the paneling and vent system as well as all the roof lining in order to get in there and seriously insulate as I am pretty sure under the ceiling lining there is no insulation. 

Any thoughts/guidance would be appreciated!

 

[highdesertranger]

if you don't want it it's a basic job for an AC shop. they replace the hoses for a model without rear air and recharge the system. after that it is safe for you to remove the system. don't try to remove it on your own without an AC shop doing the deletion first. does your front AC work now? highdesertranger

 

[lifemonkey]

if you don't want it it's a basic job for an AC shop.  they replace the hoses for a model without rear air and recharge the system.  after that it is safe for you to remove the system.  don't try to remove it on your own without an AC shop doing the deletion first.  does your front AC work now?  highdesertranger

Yes everything works as it should. 

Okay, that makes sense that things need to be redirected. I have a mechanic guy I just met who I hear knows quite a bit about RV builds and such. I'll find out if this is something he'd be able to help me with.

 

[BinDerSmokDat]

I would use a shop that specializes in AC. While there are some general mechanics that are knowledgeable about AC systems, an AC shop is going to have all of the tools, equipment and refrigerant on hand to do the job correctly and quickly.

Also rear AC is a nice feature. While I can see how it would be a pain to work around and consumes some extra space on a van build, if i was planning on spending significant time down South/Southwest in summer months I'd keep it. The ability to cool down the entire van quickly is pretty nice, especially if you want to cool off the heat soaked interior a little before bed to make sleeping comfortable or have a wife/kids/pets who will spend time in the rear wile driving.

 

[makenmend]

I would use a shop that specializes in AC. While there are some general mechanics that are knowledgeable about AC systems, an AC shop is going to have all of the tools, equipment and refrigerant on hand to do the job correctly and quickly.

Also rear AC is a nice feature. While I can see how it would be a pain to work around and consumes some extra space on a van build, if i was planning on spending significant time down South/Southwest in summer months I'd keep it. The ability to cool down the entire van quickly is pretty nice, especially if you want to cool off the heat soaked interior a little before bed to make sleeping comfortable or have a wife/kids/pets who will spend time in the rear wile driving.

I expect the E350 to be very similar to the T350. I kept my rear A/C for the reasons quoted above, and have appreciated it.
This is what it will look like.

 

[closeanuf]

The E350 is completely different.  The rear ac unit is on the drivers side and it blows up into a duct that is nothing like the Transit.  If you pull out your headliner you will see how the cooled air is directed.  If you need the extra headroom you could redirect the air somewhere else.  The actual AC unit mounts on the floor.  I just TORE one out and put ALL the plastic trim panels in the trash..  I'm still in the progress of figuring out what to do about ALL the plumbing involved.  You can go to a Ford dealer and get printouts of the various components.  I just did it today is how I know. All the tubing that carries the freon is under the floor on the drivers side.  You can lay on your back midway back and you will see the tubes.  They come up through the floor about 18 inches behind the rear tire.  If your AC is working those lines are under pressure so don't just start ripping thing apart.

 

[lifemonkey]

The E350 is completely different.  The rear ac unit is on the drivers side and it blows up into a duct that is nothing like the Transit.  If you pull out your headliner you will see how the cooled air is directed.  If you need the extra headroom you could redirect the air somewhere else.  The actual AC unit mounts on the floor.  I just TORE one out and put ALL the plastic trim panels in the trash..  I'm still in the progress of figuring out what to do about ALL the plumbing involved.  You can go to a Ford dealer and get printouts of the various components.  I just did it today is how I know. All the tubing that carries the freon is under the floor on the drivers side.  You can lay on your back midway back and you will see the tubes.  They come up through the floor about 18 inches behind the rear tire.  If your AC is working those lines are under pressure so don't just start ripping thing apart.

Really glad I read this when I did. But I don't know what to do now. I really don't want the paneling, but it's all riveted into the duct work on the floor and appears to be PART of the duct work. I'd like to keep the air flow for the reasons mentioned above so figured I'd build around. 
Is that ac unit providing ac for the front too? 

Ordering a shop manual today. Ugg.

 

[highdesertranger]

the Freon charge is shared for both the rear unit and the front. there is only one compressor for both systems. highdesertranger

 

[drysailor]

Really glad I read this when I did. But I don't know what to do now. I really don't want the paneling, but it's all riveted into the duct work on the floor and appears to be PART of the duct work. I'd like to keep the air flow for the reasons mentioned above so figured I'd build around. 
Is that ac unit providing ac for the front too? 

Ordering a shop manual today. Ugg.

With the freon tubing all tucked into the floor/wall corner, and the A/C unit tucked into the rear corner, you could just remove most of the ducting, maybe leave it 'up the wall' only, and fab in some kind of aim-able louvers or vent grille at the top? That way you'd still have the rear A/C if needed, but gain all the overhead space?

 

[closeanuf]

More than likely you have heat back there too.  It would be very easy to re-direct the air and get rid of all that  plastic trim.  You can't believe how much room is behind them and if you are careful taking them out you could always replace them.  Take the seatbelts out with a T-50 torks bit, pull on the top panels around the windows and they should just be held in with clips that will allow you to put them back in.  When you get the upper panels out you will see phillips head screws and then take out the bottom part of the seat belts.  I'm gonna send you a PM

 

[lifemonkey]

More than likely you have heat back there too.  It would be very easy to re-direct the air and get rid of all that  plastic trim.  You can't believe how much room is behind them and if you are careful taking them out you could always replace them.  Take the seatbelts out with a T-50 torks bit, pull on the top panels around the windows and they should just be held in with clips that will allow you to put them back in.  When you get the upper panels out you will see phillips head screws and then take out the bottom part of the seat belts.  I'm gonna send you a PM

well, I didn't read this til afterward... I called the mechanic friend and because of our combined schedules he wasn't going to be able to offer advice til next weekend. But I'm not known for being patient in situations like these...   It's going to the paint shop this friday and I really wanted to have a decent amount done beforehand. 

I just said "f" it. lol  It's not rocket science and people have to get in these spaces to replace the stupid seat belts somehow. The one that kept alluding me was the cap on the drivers seatbelt - because that had to come off before the top paneling could be removed. Once I FINALLY figured out how to get that silly thing off (which wasn't that hard), everything else was a piece of cake. 

Here's the result. I'll deal with the head liner tomorrow. But, yes I figure like drysailor suggested, I would just cap things off and redirect. I do want to have an A/C tech look at it though and see exactly how much I can get rid of because on top of the wheel well, there is another metal pipe going into it. 

And YES, there is SO much room behind those ducts. I feel so much better now all that paneling is gone!

 

[closeanuf]

There should be 2 lines and those are the heater lines.  That square panel toward the front with the sticked on it is probably where the heater core is.

 

[lifemonkey]

I've uploaded my initial tear down video to youtube if anyone is interested.. 

Just keep in mind I've torn apart computers for a living... not cars.  :angel:

 

[drysailor]

I've uploaded my initial tear down video to youtube if anyone is interested.. 

Just keep in mind I've torn apart computers for a living... not cars.  :angel:

Good video - I've wondered what the inside of my walls looked like...........

 

[blackmajik2049]

I'm trying to do something similar with an E-150 passenger van. I plan on extending the duct work into my high top, and keeping all the original lighting components. Going to attempt to install all of them behind a plywood / luan ceiling with insulation. Not sure what I'm going to do about the rear unit and floorboard vents though. I think you can get basic ducting materials at home depot. I'm also going to attempt to build the rear bed right on top of it, but I'm a little worried about overheating the unit by essentially keeping it in a plywood box. I may add some simple metal vents to the bed structure near the rear. Total amateur here so any tips would be much appreciated! I will post my progress / anything I find here.

 

[Wanderer]

This is why my next van is a cargo van. Having to remove items not desired is such a pain.

 

[veedub3]

I'm trying to do something similar with an E-150 passenger van. I plan on extending the duct work into my high top, and keeping all the original lighting components. Going to attempt to install all of them behind a plywood / luan ceiling with insulation. Not sure what I'm going to do about the rear unit and floorboard vents though. I think you can get basic ducting materials at home depot. I'm also going to attempt to build the rear bed right on top of it, but I'm a little worried about overheating the unit by essentially keeping it in a plywood box. I may add some simple metal vents to the bed structure near the rear. Total amateur here so any tips would be much appreciated! I will post my progress / anything I find here.

I am doing the same thing. I have an e350 Passenger van and I am choosing to keep the rear heater/ac unit.  I am just going to build a cabinet around it as sort of a disguise and vent the cabinet into the cabin.  I am not an expert but I am pretty skilled with tools, so I am confident I can make it work, and make it look like it was made that way.   The way they had that paneling around the unit was essentially the same thing. If I must, I will even put a vent leading to the outside of the van just as an added precaution to preventing any possible overheating.  (You can see the exterior vent I am referring to here: http://amzn.to/2Co7F4c) 

My thoughts are that I will hit up the blue/orange box store for some flexible ducting, and the bottom opening will be routed under the bed , and the opening off to the right will be routed behind the cabinets. This may change once I start working on it but like I said, I am confident I can make it work. 

Good luck with your build.

 

[S Cello]

On my 2000 E350 15 passenger van, the hot water solenoid had been stuck open for the last 8 years and last year I was driving up a very windey mountain road with a large wheel barrow in the back and it damaged the coil. I lost all the refrigerant. So when I started my build, I just removed the whole thing. If one was to decide to remove the rear unit, the refrigerant lines should only be disconnected at one point, as there is a less than $20 part to seal them up made for that point. As was noted above, it should only be done by someone skilled in HVAC.

Great video!

 

[Schwoebs]

Working on the same problem with a friend in my E350 extended passenger van. A dedicated AC shop would be best.

We're doing this: 1) Get the freon drained at Jiffy Lube - this cost $140 and took a full hour (lots of freon!). 2) Friend had good conversations with parts manager at Ford dealership and brought the van in to double check parts needed. 3) Cost of parts ran $420. 4) Friend is going to try the removal and install of new parts (if that doesn't look doable, then back to dealership for this step). She is pretty darn handy, so hoping it will work out.

I see why people go with cargo vans and spend time/money on cutting holes & installing windows where needed. Removing everything from a passenger van has been more work than we expected. Those dang seat floor clamps (whatever the name is) are a real pain! Would be easier in a new van.

Best, Schwoebs