QUICK help needed! Mounting Solar Panel

[climberslacker]

Hi!

Currently my 100W Renogy panel is sitting on the roof of my van (2001 Dodge Ram Van). I'm trying to mount it alone and am having the problem of not getting the mounting brackets to be able to align with the roof support ribs. The brackets are too wide to fit in the "valleys" but not quite wide enough to span them. If I could get them aligned with the "mountain" ribs, which are wider, then I would be able to mount it with ease except there are only two "Settings" for the brackets to go into on the panel.

For reference, I'm mounting it across the back (so parallel with the axel) because I want to have the option of putting a roof box on in the future without having to move the panels. Perhaps I will just have to suck it up and commit to not having a roof box.

 

[SternWake]

Hi!

Currently my 100W Renogy panel is sitting on the roof of my van (2001 Dodge Ram Van). I'm trying to mount it alone and am having the problem of not getting the mounting brackets to be able to align with the roof support ribs. The brackets are too wide to fit in the "valleys" but not quite wide enough to span them. If I could get them aligned with the "mountain" ribs, which are wider, then I would be able to mount it with ease except there are only two "Settings" for the brackets to go into on the panel.

For reference, I'm mounting it across the back (so parallel with the axel) because I want to have the option of putting a roof box on in the future without having to move the panels. Perhaps I will just have to suck it up and commit to not having a roof box.

perhaps get some aluminum angle at home despot or Lowes and extend that to where it can be easily attached, then attach Renogy's brackets to that.

HD also sells 3m 5200 in squeeze tubes and for caulk guns.  they have a fast cure version too, but 'fast' is subjective, depending on humidity.

 

[GotSmart]

Hi!

Currently my 100W Renogy panel is sitting on the roof of my van (2001 Dodge Ram Van). I'm trying to mount it alone and am having the problem of not getting the mounting brackets to be able to align with the roof support ribs. The brackets are too wide to fit in the "valleys" but not quite wide enough to span them. If I could get them aligned with the "mountain" ribs, which are wider, then I would be able to mount it with ease except there are only two "Settings" for the brackets to go into on the panel.

For reference, I'm mounting it across the back (so parallel with the axel) because I want to have the option of putting a roof box on in the future without having to move the panels. Perhaps I will just have to suck it up and commit to not having a roof box.

I have a roof rack, so the panel system can be moved as well as expanded.

 

[rvpopeye]

Could you put the roof box on and then mount the panel on that ?
Big plus would be no shade on the panel..........

 

[Reducto]

Are you trying to use the brackets on the ends of the panel? Can you use them on the sides instead? Drill new holes in the frame if necessary.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Lots of companies will void the warranty if holes are drilled in the frame, something I never worried about.

 

[climberslacker]

s
Thanks for the tips everyone! I ended up up just biting the bullet and mounting it lengthwise in a place where I hope that I can still have room for rain-gutter cross bars and eventually a roof box.
Manhandling the panel on the roof alone was a little bit of a pain in the booty but I got it sorted out.
Now a dumb question:
I used the factory supplied self-tapping screws, is it reasonable and safe (meaning not an increased chance of my panel realizing its lifetime dream of being a kite) of taking an angle grinder to where they come through the roof. Right now it's a good inch and a half and I wouldn't mind cutting off an inch of that or so to make insulating the roof easier.

 

[Reducto]

I'd get new shorter screws of the proper length and maybe one size larger width. Before you put them on slather some silicone glue around the area. That should keep things from rusting and keep the screws from working themselves loose.

 

[TMG51]

I also would suggest using roof sealant under the screw heads. Don't want water trickling in there. Especially not after you've insulated it.

 

[climberslacker]

Too late to take them out, I put butyl tape under the brackets as well as covered everything in a healthy dose of dicor lap sealant. Hoping that will keep out the water!

I think trimming the screws won't hurt anything though, correct?

 

[akrvbob]

Take the screws out and put in bolts.
Bob

 

[SternWake]

Too late to take them out, I put butyl tape under the brackets as well as covered everything in a healthy dose of dicor lap sealant. Hoping that will keep out the water!

I think trimming the screws won't hurt anything though, correct?

Depends on how you trim them. Getting them practically red hot with a cut off wheel would not be good for the butyl tape or the dicor.

Stainless gets work hardened.  it will start to cut OK, but then get a lot harder once it heats up.  Go slow. cut a little on each screw.  

I woulda used machine screws and a large washer and nut rather than sheet metal screws since you have access from below.

 

[ccbreder]

Any thing mounted above the panels will reduce the output because of shading. Reduce a lot.