Question about Travel Trailer refrigerator

[DreadHeadDrifter]

Hello everyone, I hope you are all doing well!


I am looking at a few travel trailers and I have a question about the refrigerators that come installed on them.

Most of the trailers I have been looking at have electric refrigerators. And I do not see any mention of propane. Is that normal?

If most travel trailers only come with electric refrigerators, then how do you keep your fridge running when you are driving on the road? 
Does it feed off of your battery? 
Would you be able to keep a fridge running while dry camping with no hookups?

My goal here is to purchase a travel trailer in the near future, but I would like to be able to keep my fridge running 24/7, while driving around and also while dry camping with no hookups. 
Can an electric refrigerator do this?

Ideally, I would like to boondock for at least a week at a day but have power in my travel trailer and keep my fridge on.


I would be willing to purchase a larger battery bank if it will help increase my time away from being plugged up to power.

Would this battery bank be able to charge while driving with a travel trailer hooked up? Or plugged into shore power?

Also considering solar if it can help meet my power damands, how much solar would you reccommend to power a travel trailer refrigerator?

Thanks for reading and I apreciate al the help I can get.

 

[SoulRaven]

Can you give me an example of a trailer that you looked at with an electric-only refrigerator? There are some that may, but for the most part, that is not the case. Some have 2-way: propane (gas), electric (AC) and some are 3-way: propane, electric and battery (DC). The two most known, maybe the only ones, that produce 2 & 3 way are Dometic and Norcold.

 

[jimindenver]

Most refrigerators will hold their temperature while you drive. Most people that have 120v fridges run them on hook ups or off of very large banks and solar. That said, most travel trailers have at least a propane and 120v fridge and many leave it on propane as they travel.

 

[tx2sturgis]

It sounds like you need to leave room in your budget for an upgrade...

You will need a high efficiency fridge, (chest type or built-in) because the low-end 2-way or 3-way fridges normally found in travel trailers (especially older used ones) tend to consume electricity (AC and DC) at a pretty good rate.

Meaning that you would have to buy a LOT of solar power to run it for a week or more on solar only.

A propane powered fridge (again, 2-way or 2-way) is only efficient on propane, not electricity, and barely tolerable for extended stays off-grid and boondocking.

 

[DreadHeadDrifter]

Can you give me an example of a trailer that you looked at with an electric-only refrigerator?  There are some that may, but for the most part, that is not the case.  Some have 2-way:  propane (gas), electric (AC) and some are 3-way:  propane, electric and battery (DC).  The two most known, maybe the only ones, that produce 2 & 3 way are Dometic and Norcold.

This is one I saw earlier. I could not tell because in the add it says "electric fridge"  There are probably 20 different ones I saw on RV trader that say that. So I was unsure. Previously I thought that all travel trailers would come with at least a 2 way fridge.  

https://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/As...f-Stream-Kingsport-Super-Lite-16BHC-121665591


is that an electric only fridge?

Thanks for the help!

 

[tx2sturgis]

It helps when we know that the target unit is NEW.

Don't worry most of the new ones come with at least a 2 way fridge.  But in that ad that you linked, it does look like a typical dorm fridge, electric only. They can put in a dorm style fridge for $100 but a 2-way or 3-unit will cost $1000 or more, adding to the overall cost of the unit.

'Electric Fridge' terminology, when talking about travel trailers, dates back to the days of the icebox. So its confusing.

Its a bit like passing a motel in a small town that still has 'Direct Dial Phones and Color TV' on the sign out front.

But you will STILL need to upgrade something, since even a 3 way fridge will consume a lot of power (relative to solar supply) when NOT on propane. Or you may need to add an inverter to power that AC only unit on DC.

BTW, you can use the propane side of a normal RV fridge to keep things cool when traveling, just be VERY aware that there is a small flame burning, which can blow out, or cause a fire if you are in an accident.

Plus, in some states, its illegal to go thru a tunnel with a propane flame burning in an RV.

 

[DreadHeadDrifter]

It helps when we know that the target unit is NEW.

Don't worry most of the new ones come with at least a 2 way fridge.  In that ad that you linked, it does look like a typical dorm fridge, electric only.

'Electric Fridge' terminology, when talking about travel trailers, dates back to the days of the icebox.

Its a bit like passing a motel in a small town that still has 'Direct Dial Phones and Color TV' on the sign out front.

But you will STILL need to upgrade something, since even a 3 way fridge will consume a lot of power (relative to solar supply) when NOT on propane. Or you may need to add an inverter to power that AC only unit on DC.

BTW, you can use the propane side of a normal RV fridge to keep things cool when traveling, just be VERY aware that there is a small flame burning, which can blow out, or cause a fire if you are in an accident.

Plus, in some states, its illegal to go thru a tunnel with a propane flame burning in an RV.

Good to know! Thank you for explaining that to me.

Any rough estimate of how long I could last off a 20lb propane tank running a small TT fridge? I am trying to plan out if I should save for a large solar setup, or just use it only on propane for the most part if it does not use lots of propane.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I actually prefer that type of fridge...they are cheap to replace, they will run off of a small to midsize inverter, (and solar) they are lightweight, no standing pilot or complex electrical circuit boards and safety systems, or propane plumbing to worry about.

They are also not as picky about being level (as with a 2-way or 3-way fridge). The trailer would have to tilted badly before the compressor system failed, and humans dont usually tolerate that much floor slant anyway.

In my old motorhome, I replaced a failed 3-way fridge with a cheap electric dorm fridge, installed some nice trim, and made sure it had good ventilation on all sides....it worked great for years!

 

[tx2sturgis]

Good to know! Thank you for explaining that to me.

Any rough estimate of how long I could last off a 20lb propane tank running a small TT fridge? I am trying to plan out if I should save for a large solar setup, or just use it only on propane for the most part if it does not use lots of propane.

That's extremely variable.

Camping during  the winter, your furnace might empty that 20 pounder in a long weekend....in mild weather, with the furnace off, the fridge might go for a month on a tankful.

In hot climates, the fridge might burn thru the tank in a week or so.

It depends on other factors too, like how many times you open the fridge door, how much ice you are making, how hot or cold the food is that you put in there.

Thats why so many travel trailers have TWO propane tanks....one can be sucked dry and you still have one in reserve, and you can pull the empty one off, and take it in town or wherever, for a refill.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Is this for full timing or just long weekends now and then?


If you plan to full time, or spend weeks or months off the grid, you need to look into a 12 volt compressor fridge and a solar system.

If its for a few long weekends a year, or camped under shady trees most of the time, then propane is not a bad option, assuming you get a camper with a 2-way or 3-way fridge.

 

[DreadHeadDrifter]

I actually prefer that type of fridge...they are cheap to replace, they will run off of a small to midsize inverter, (and solar) they are lightweight, no standing pilot or complex electrical circuit boards and safety systems, or propane plumbing to worry about.

They are also not as picky about being level (as with a 2-way or 3-way fridge). The trailer would have to tilted badly before the compressor system failed, and humans dont usually tolerate that much floor slant anyway.

In my old motorhome, I replaced a failed 3-way fridge with a cheap electric dorm fridge, installed some nice trim, and made sure it had good ventilation on all sides....it worked great for years!

Oh well that might work in my favor then! I would like to be able to have it on constantly and not have to keep track of propane levels to rely on my fridge working.  I will have to research solar and see how large of a battery bank/ how many watts I will need to keep a fridge like that running. 

Do you have experience with running solar off this type of fridge?

 

[tx2sturgis]

Do you have experience with running solar off this type of fridge?

I dont, but many here have that experience...I hope they will chime in..


There are a few threads here that deal with it...maybe look around and ask the guys with that exact combination.

 

[SternWake]

Absorption fridges can be run on propane 12vDC or 120vAC. They should be kept close to level at all times when running, or their plumbing can get blocked.

Technically it is not legal to have them run on propabe when driving through tunnels or refilling at gas stations. that is why they give the 12 volt option, but this 12 volt option draws something like 8 to 14 amps, which can kill batteries quickly.

There are so many complaints about absorption fridges wither not cooling properly, or not lasting very long, I hear than many rv manufacturers are opting instead for regular household compressor fridges, perhaps having these on their own inverter.

The household fridges on an inverter typically consume 2x the amount of electricity as a dedicated 12v compressor fridge, and they might or might not be ruggedized enough, for operating in a moving vehicle.

Which type of fridge that comes with your RV is a question to ask the seller. even small absorption fridges are in the realm of a 12v compressor fridge. A 12v compressor fridge and solar re

 

[Ballenxj]

That said, most travel trailers have at least a propane and 120v fridge and many leave it on propane as they travel.

Just my free unsolicited opinion, but "DO NOT" travel down the road with your propane turned on! Years ago I did a bit of research on trailer/RV fires, and the number one reason they caught on fire was that the propane was left on while in transit. Don't just take my word, do the research yourself. 
Having said that, let me further say that type of fridge is a royal pain in the derriere. It must be almost perfectly level to work, and takes forever to cool down to a descent temperature. I'm fighting with one right now, and would trade it for either an Engel, or Max Burton in a heartbeat.

 

[SternWake]

Absorption fridges can be run on propane 12vDC or 120vAC. They should be kept close to level at all times when running, or their plumbing can get blocked.

Technically it is not legal to have them run on propabe when driving through tunnels or refilling at gas stations. that is why they give the 12 volt option, but this 12 volt option draws something like 8 to 14 amps, which can kill batteries quickly.

There are so many complaints about absorption fridges wither not cooling properly, or not lasting very long, I hear than many rv manufacturers are opting instead for regular household compressor fridges, perhaps having these on their own inverter.

The household fridges on an inverter typically consume 2x the amount of electricity as a dedicated 12v compressor fridge, and they might or might not be ruggedized enough, for operating in a moving vehicle.

Which type of fridge that comes with your RV is a question to ask the seller. even small absorption fridges are in the price realm of a 12v compressor fridge. A 12v compressor fridge and solar require no propane.

Absorption fridges require a long time to cool down, and to cool down items placed within. COmpressor fridges cool down quickly and can cool down items placed with much much faster.

What fridge is best for you can be determined by how you plan on using your rig, but do not expect the rv manufacturer to have employed what is best for you, they are concerned with their bottom line and no salesman tactics are too low to get you off the lot in a new rig that is not quite right for your needs intentions.

So ask if it is an absorption fridge, or a compressor fridge. If a compressor fridge ask if it is residential, or a 12v compressor fridge. If residential(120vac) ask if it comes with its own inverter, and extra batteries to run it.

Many RVs are designed to be power pedestal princesses, towed only from rv park with full hook ups to another with full hook ups then home, with full hookups. Those boondocking regualrly for extended periods, or even shorter periods, require a different strategy to be self sufficient regarding safe food storage.

 

[SoulRaven]

That unit pictured does have the electric frig only. I have noticed in many of the entry level trailers, to keep costs down and try to compete against one another, they are putting in the dorm size electric. I haven't had one before in a TT. There is the advantage that they don't have to be kept level, we learned that the hard way storing the trailer in the yard and not leveled. An expensive mistake.

If you have not shopped at an RV dealer before, they can play games to try to get you to buy more. Set a price you would pay, and don't go above that. They sometimes use attractive prices in a "bait and switch" where they get you in there and then try to get you to buy something more expensive. Never fall for "Well, if you don't buy today, it is probably going to be gone when you return.", answer, "If it is meant to be, it will still be here when I am ready."

RV refrigerators are very expensive to repair or replace. The little electric one can be taken to recycle facility if it dies and you can pick up a new one for under $100.00 at the big box store, a real advantage if you can work out the details with the solar.

 

[DreadHeadDrifter]

Oh wow. Lots of info thank you everyone for your replies.

I have been doing lots of research and it seems like I have a few options.

1. Keep an all electric fridge, and build a beefy solar system and battery bank.

2. Purchase a more energy friendly compressor fridge like a dometic and have a smaller solar setup.

3. Go with propane but risk all the potential issues that go along with that. Plus the cost of having to purchase a 2 way fridge.

Anyone have any thoughts on what would be the best investment in the long run?

Thanks!

 

[Ballenxj]

Anyone have any thoughts on what would be the best investment in the long run?

Don't have either one yet, but after doing a lot of reading here. I would go with the Engel, or for a bit less money, the Max Burton seems to be holding it's own. There have been some efficient 120v fridges listed on the forums as well that could be run through an inverter.

 

[highdesertranger]

it's true some of the budget RV.s are using dorm type 120v refers. I have noticed more and more using 12v refers at least as an option, these RV's usually come with solar panels.

I have posted some long posts about refers and options. I have tried almost every type of whatever to keep food and drinks cold. ice chests, 3 way, dorm. from my experience nothing even comes close to a 12v compressor refer. if I would have just bought a 12v to begin with I would have saved a lot of money. my 2 cents. highdesertranger

 

[ZoNiE]

Regardless of fridge type you ultimately end up with, If you put an ice block in it, or fill a lower drawer with water and pre-freeze it, it helps keep everything cold even when you have it running. The little blue circulation fans help too, and seem to run forever on two D cells.

The Electric dorm fridge type you showed also tend to *eventually* be noisy, and they eject all the heat into the living space. Think small fridge in a hotel room and you get the idea. They are also not overly efficient. They tend to use more juice than a regular full size 18 cu ft house sized one.

I Have a two-way (120V/Gas) and will be eventually going to a 12/24VDC compressor unit to run on solar 24/7. I have 400 W of solar and two GC2 Batteries.