Putting together system

[BradKW]

I can tell you all one thing; this thread is enough to scare the crap out of a novice wanting to put solar power in their van. I'm going to put 200 watts of solar power in mine.  Maybe 600 watts is a whole different story or because its an RV but  it's gotta be easier to put 200 watts in otherwise I don't think most people would ever do it.

Yeah, the back and forth on some specific details has gotten a bit muddied up...I think the need to include existing RV components and wiring has added a confusion factor. At least for me it has. I really haven't been able to grasp the converter thing going on here. To my understanding, a converter/charger simply changes 110v to 12v so you can charge battery from shore power...so the discussion of how this converter "includes fuses" which are therefore not necessary to place elsewhere is just escaping my understanding.

I've found it easier to take diagrams from proven systems, learn to understand what is going on, then adjust for my needs. Here's a good diagram I've been working through lately, which includes and interesting setup for battery charging: http://www.ortontransit.info/img/ODJ127-37ER.pdf

As someone pointed out to me awhile back, the simplest way to use shore power is run an extension cord and plug in a multi-port power strip. I thought that was a point worth remembering, as its easy to make things too complicated by half when a novice like me is taking advice or trying to duplicate electric systems designed by people who've done this before and know what they're doing. I need to remember that installing a basic solar system (panel, controller, battery) is really quite simple and easy, and keep falling back to that understanding when I get confused trying to add more advanced applications and design elements.

 

[blars]

Magnatec made a "converter" that included an AC breaker box and DC fuse panel that was popular with RV manufacturers for quite a while. The converter put out poorly filtered DC to the appliances and would very slowly charge the battery and overcharge it if left connected for weeks. The converter section can be removed and replaced with a modern one.

 

[Canine]

I can tell you all one thing; this thread is enough to scare the crap out of a novice wanting to put solar power in their van.

Looking back, this thread turned out to be a bit of a cluster, but don't let one thread put you off. It truly isn't difficult. You do need to have some fundamental concepts if you want to understand the system as a whole, but even that isn't necessary. You can ask the people you buy from what size wire you need and after answering a couple questions, you will know what wire to get. Easy peasy.

Oopsala was having a hard time with what size of wire to use and how amps, not volts, coupled with the length of the wire dictated that. Trying to utilize the existing wiring in her camper while not completely understanding the difference between AC and DC current was also causing confusion. Trying to use the converter that originally came with the RV was causing some serious difficulties for me. At least that is what I understand, but some miscommunication may have occurred during all the posts which would have contributed to the cluster factor.

If all you want to do is hook up solar panels to a controller to a set of batteries then hook up a small inverter, you are in good shape. Sure, there are some things to keep in mind and some things to do if you want perfection, but it is not hard. 600 watts of panels is almost as easy as 200. Personally, I went with 2 large panels instead of 6 small ones because it is that much easier to mount and wire. Figuring out what size of charge controller does take a bit of math. It is easy, too, but not for the novice.

The hardest thing I've been up against is no one and I mean no one knows how to do solar in my immediate area. No pieces parts are available, either. So far I haven't been able to find a 20 amp circuit breaker not even from a parts store.

Your blender is going to take some wattage, so two batteries may not be enough. I don't know how small your small fridge would be, so knowing how much you battery and solar you need can't be accurately determined. 2 batteries and 200 solar would be a minimum if you are able to get lots of sunshine. Go ahead with another thread if you want to ease some of the questions in your head.

 

[highdesertranger]

to all those with converters. today they make retrofit chargers that solve the problems of the old cheapo converters. simply pull your old charger out and install the new one in the same space. they have clean filtered 12v, and 3 stage smart chargers, some are even programmable. highdesertranger

 

[akrvbob]

Is there a simple guide for smaller installations somewhere?

Here it is:

1) Measure your roof
2) If you have room, order a 200 watt Renogy kit, or a 100 watt Kit.
3) Buy the biggest WalMart Marine battery you can.
4) Install it.
5) Enjoy!

Bob

 

[Canine]

Here it is:

1) Measure your roof
2) If you have room, order a 200 watt Renogy kit, or a 100 watt Kit.
3) Buy the biggest WalMart Marine battery you can.
4) Install it.
5) Enjoy!

Bob

Badda-boom, badda-bing.

 

[cortttt]

If all you want to do is hook up solar panels to a controller to a set of batteries then hook up a small inverter, you are in good shape. Sure, there are some things to keep in mind and some things to do if you want perfection, but it is not hard. 600 watts of panels is almost as easy as 200. Personally, I went with 2 large panels instead of 6 small ones because it is that much easier to mount and wire. Figuring out what size of charge controller does take a bit of math. It is easy, too, but not for the novice.

The hardest thing I've been up against is no one and I mean no one knows how to do solar in my immediate area. No pieces parts are available, either. So far I haven't been able to find a 20 amp circuit breaker not even from a parts store.

Thanks - the above is what I suspected - that she has a more complex build....(thank goodness!)

I'm getting a Renogy 200w kitt with the 20 MPPT I guess it is controller. I was considering going with a bigger controller but I'll stick with this and add another system - as Bob suggests - if I need it (I guess - or get the bigger controller. I saved $40 by going on Amazon - going through Bob's Amazon store - of course!)

 

[cortttt]

Here it is:

1) Measure your roof
2) If you have room, order a 200 watt Renogy kit, or a 100 watt Kit.
3) Buy the biggest WalMart Marine battery you can.
4) Install it.
5) Enjoy!

Bob

Got plenty of roof - will head over to Walmart when the kit arrives. If they have 200W or AMP or whatever they are batteries, I'll snag one and go from there. Otherwise I'll get 2 100's...

Badda - boom, badda bing

 

[Oopslala]

Well, the process begins sometime this weekend. Should be a fun/stressful week.

One quick question: why is it back for the charge controller to go directly over the batteries?

Oh and also, I'm a guy not a girl

 

[rvpopeye]

Lead acid batteries "exhale" hydrogen gas as they charge , Controller might have a spark.......
less of a problem with AGMs.

 

[AuricTech]

Well, the process begins sometime this weekend.  Should be a fun/stressful week.

One quick question: why is it back for the charge controller to go directly over the batteries?

Besides what rvpopeye said, I'd rather not put my expensive charge controller someplace where it potentially could be exposed to sulfuric acid fumes/mist.

 

[Oopslala]

Ah, yeah I knew that much. I thought it was something that would hinder the functionality of the set up. The batteries will be in a separate compartment from all the controllers and wires. Though, the batteries will be directly below them, they will not be leaking any fumes or gas into the upper compartment. That's if all goes as planned.

 

[BradKW]

Also, if the charge controller is over batteries, gravity may pull the electricity in to the battery too fast and make them hot...

 

[highdesertranger]

Also, if the charge controller is over batteries, gravity may pull the electricity in to the battery too fast and make them hot.... well all righty then, makes perfect sense. thanks Brad I needed a good laugh. highdesertranger

 

[Oopslala]

That's okay it'll be close to the refrigerator so that should cancel it out, right?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Also, if the charge controller is over batteries, gravity may pull the electricity in to the battery too fast and make them hot...

You can solve that problem by wiring a couple of faucet valves in between the controller and the battery.  Sternwake can provide information on how to adjust them so the overheating doesn't happen.

Whatever you do, make sure you wire the positive to the hot faucet and the negative to the cold faucet or you'll have a real mess on your hands . . .

Regards
John

 

[speedhighway46]

No wonder mine hasn't worked, I had the wires reversed.

Does the neutral wire go to the drain?

 

[Oopslala]

Alright back to more serious questions

I've got all 6 panels on the roof and in place, with wires ran down into the camper.

Took out the old 3way fridge, and built a rather gaudy looking contraption to hold my batteries, controllers and all that stuff, and refrigerator on top of it all.
The batteries are very well ventilated along with the fridge. Batteries also sealed off from everything else.

I don't have any of the internal wiring done to the batteries, from the charge controller and inverter etc. because I'm ordering them premade to ensure they're done correctly. I know what size wires I need for most things, but I still feel a little in the dark on a few. I'd rather ask a stupid question than buy the wrong size wire and have to eat the cost.

Shunt: I'm pretty clueless what size wires to use for the shunt. In my mind it seems I should use the 1gauge wire, then use small 16gauge (something small) for the 3 connecting spots the battery meter will connect at.

Battery Monitor: this goes hand in hand with the shunt question, since 3 of the 4 connect to the shunt. the other will be to the + bus bar. I'm guessing all those wires will be small since the draw of the monitor will be very small.

RTS on Charge Controller(Morningstar mppt): this is the one of the 2 things connected to the battery bank - terminal. The other is the shunt. I'm thinking the wire should be small.

Sense on Charge Controller: assuming both + and - will be a small wire.

I realize these are somewhat basic questions but I want to be certain before purchasing anything. Please suggest wire sizes you see fitting for the above questions.

I'll post some completed pics of everything once it's all together and working.

Here's a link to my diagram of everything: https://cowcap.net/i/377b50fa25.png

 

[Oopslala]

Well, I've got the batteries all hooked up. All 12v stuff works. Setting up the charge controller and all other components then I'm turning on the solar, if that works the way it should, I should be done by the end of the day!

 

[29chico]

Well, I've got the batteries all hooked up.  All 12v stuff works.  Setting up the charge controller and all other components then I'm turning on the solar, if that works the way it should, I should be done by the end of the day!

Congrats on the progress with the project.

That is one sweet system.