PSA - Don't get a Transit Connect 2015

[DanDweller]

Just a Public Service Announcement here: Don't get a 2015 Ford Transit Connect.  When you open a door the exterior running lights come on, even with no key in the ignition.  The dealers confirmed there is no way to turn that crap off for this model by accessing the Body Control Module.  They also tell me that installing a switch of my own could change the resistance and upset the module.  I am now on hold with Ford's corporate phone number, while the person with an Indian accent gets up to speed and likely comes back telling me what I already know and that I am SOL.

 

[Wabbit]

Ask if there was a firmware update on the 2015. Supposedly on the 2017 there was a firmware update that allowed a tech to access the menu to turn off exterior.

This info is from here...
https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6457-turn-off-or-shorten-duration-lights-are-on/

Shot in the dark, but maybe?

 

[DanDweller]

That's what I just went through.  I should have mentioned the firmware update in my post.  I had gone to the same forum you linked to.  So yeah, it's confirmed: no update available for the 2015 model (at least for the XL--perhaps for the XLT, but I doubt it).

 

[DanDweller]

I am taking it to a place in town that does auto upholstery but also has a lighting specialist. (New Image Vans in Salt Lake City). Without even having seen it, they are pretty sure they have a fix--but at a minimum of $350.

 

[maki2]

Sounds like a very strange arrangement. I used to drive the WAshington Ferry workers crazy because my Chevy S10 truck had headlights that could not be switched off if the engine was running. That blinded them when they were loading cars onto the boat.

 

[DanDweller]

Just taking out the light bulbs or putting in burned out bulbs is not a solution. I still want my running lights for when I am driving--you know, the option of a normal car before the digitizing revolution ruined everything (dont get me started on digitized washing machines). Also, if I remove a bulb or put in a burned out bulb the control module is going to whine and moan and alert me with annoying dash lights every time I drive it--just like it does every time I drive to let me know a tire pressure sensor is missing. Who the hell needs a tire pressure sensor? If you don't know how to look at and check the pressure of your tires you shouldn't have a car. These are not luxuries but manipulative gimmicks. $70 to put in a new, useless, sensor. What I'd ratyer do is pull the dash and disable the alerting light.
Anyway, I think the solution will be to fool the sensors on the door latches so that even if I open a door, the circuit is still closed and so it thinks the doors are shut.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I can sympathize. Back in 2014 I bought a 2009 Ford E-250 full size van that had the $50 factory option DRL function. I printed out the window sticker from an online source based on the VIN, and there it was under factory options: DRL: $50

Daytime Running Lights.

I did not like them because at night, if the engine was running, and you had your normal headlights turned off, as in parked with the engine running, or say, slowly backing up, whenever, the dang headlights (but none of the parking lights) would go on when selecting 'Drive' but go off when you switched into 'Park'. So, as you jockeyed around, such as hooking up to a trailer, or moving the vehicle slightly at a campsite to get level, etc, the stupid headlights would go on, sometimes pointing right at people in the dark at a campfire, or beaming into someone's RV or tent. Then go off again when you selected 'Park'....Then go back on when you selected 'Drive'....It was STUPID...and embarrassing.

I found all kinds of information on the internet about it, with answers like 'press the parking brake down a notch', NOPE. Didnt work. Or, 'look for the relay or fuse behind the radiator or near the firewall'...NOPE. Didn't apply. Wrong year vehicle. 

Turns out it was a programmed feature in the PCM, Powertrain Control Module. And I went to 3 dealers who told me it cant be changed, two of them hooked up and tried. One local dealer refused telling me it was ILLEGAL to defeat the DRLs. 

In Texas, and most of the USA, DRL's are NOT required. Duh. Bad dealer, no donut...(not yet, anyway)

After a month or so, I ran across an obscure Ford Ambulance Chassis/Van TSB online that had all the pertinent information, including the software codes and the so called 'Ambulance Settings' buried in the Ford dealer software. Included was a statement by Ford that the modification was legal in most of the USA, including Texas. (BTW, my van was never an ambulance)

I printed it all out and wandered into the local dealership that had previously told me it was 'illegal' to turn off the DRL function.

The service manager looked it over, asked a tech, and 15 minutes later, they had hooked up their shop computer, and PRESTO!....all done. No more DRL function. They charged me $50 which I thought was very reasonable.

So total cost to turn on DRL and then turn them off again: $100.

When engineers at Ford think they 'have a better idea'....I say BS.

I hope you can get your 'Approach Lights' figured out...it is frustrating.

 

[B and C]

My DRL fix was easy. It was on a seperate circuit in the fuse panel inside. I just pulled the fuse. I like/dislike DRL. Makes it easier for people to see you when you are driving and gets in the way most other times. I have even found myself driving after dark thinking my light were on when it was only the DRL. Mine are dimmer than normal low beam but a pain nonetheless.

You may be able to bypass your lights as you suggested. Put a toggle switch on the door switch to turn it on and off as needed only for the doors you want to behave this way or if you can find the main control wire for the switch system. Your computer should not complain about that but you never know with all this drive by wire stuff (which I hate).

 

[Wabbit]

Anyway, I think the solution will be to fool the sensors on the door latches so that even if I open a door, the circuit is still closed and so it thinks the doors are shut.

I did this on my 96 Dodge. They were mechanical switches so duct tape worked. I doubt yours will be as easy a fix, but here's hoping! If you figure something out, seems like a lot of peeps would love the solution. Best of luck!

 

[JD GUMBEE]

All the new cars have insane electrical idiocy/convoluted wiring/ECM integration. (Welcome to Futureworld )

You seem stuck trying to make it work the way you think it should instead of just accepting what is.
( I hear the "pain in the ass" message, but reason to "not buy a 2015 transit?" Ehh, laying it on a little thick, no? )

Sitting on the phone with a screen-reading "your call is important to us" idiot is going to do nothing but frustrate you.

You could just pop the door sensor, telling the ECM the door is always closed in about thirty minutes or less.

Then buy a LED light.

 

[DanDweller]

That DRL issue on the E-250 sounds quite annoying.

Right now I'm going to see if I can isolate the wires that go to the sensors and just wire them permanently together, or maybe also put in a toggle switch.

It just seems to me that people who have relatively normal and average intuitions about daily activities should be the ones designing products, not the Aspbergery silicon-valley types. No offense--every one has their purpose in the world, but yeah, I remember back in the day when all I had to do was turn a knob to the desired location, pull it, and voila, the washing machine started up immediately, no issues. What is it about modern first-world people that we think turning and pulling a knob is too difficult to do? Is the goal to engineer ourselves into a permament state of obesity and idleness, or some kind of brain in a vat scenario?

 

[DanDweller]

Well after spending four or five hours on the door sensor, I have no idea how to tell the control module the door is always closed. Will have to try with a mechanic on Monday. Call me crazy, but I find it not just annoying but stealth-busting to have the running lights come on every time a door is opened. What's even weirder is that sometimes it doesn't do it, but I can't pin down what set of circumstances causes it not to do it.

But now there are bigger fish because I just realized all the rain we just got, and that I was driving around in, somehow entered in the cargo bed. That's a h8ge disappointment on only a four year old car. I understand there are other water leak issues in the Transit vans. Having taken out all the interior trim and looked at the subfloor from above and from underneath the van, I can see it is very poorly constructed if one wants to keep water out. Not sure if that's a Ford thing or if lots of cars are so poorly designed re water.

 

[highdesertranger]

water should not be able to enter the passenger compartment on any vehicle. the firewall, floor, and rear doors should be sealed 100% because if water can enter so can exhaust gas. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

I found on my old vans that I had some water ingress through the back door seals if I had the front windows open even a little while driving. It caused enough of a vacuum to pull a little water through the seals. Never smelled exhaust fumes though.

 

[IGBT]

I don't know about transit connects but on regular transits sometimes the sticker seals that Ford puts over the factory threaded holes in the roof that are there for a roof rack can come off.  People who don't plan on putting on a roof rack usually put a plug or some sealant in these holes.   I actually like that Ford has the nice threaded holes for that...saves some work when putting up a panel system or whatever.

 

[DanDweller]

Well I'm glad I had pulled out the cargo bed liner and other trim and had a chance to drive around in some rain for a while before starting to make and modify things.  At least I was able to see specifically where the water was coming in.  It seems to be coming in through the factory seam where the cargo floor panel meets the side panel of the wheel well.  I'm going to clean out the little exposed crevice at the seam and apply some RTV sealant.  That's on the inside.  And then I'll take the back wheel off so it's out of the way, remove the plastic paneling and see what I can find and cover with RTV on the outside.  I'd rather be moving on toward making this my house, but I'm going to be spending a good amount of time just getting the "vehicular" aspects up to par.  I don't see many people talking about it in their van mod videos, but rust treating the undercarriage, drivetrain, frame, panels, inside of doors, under fenders etc is an absolute must if I'm going to invest so much time and money converting it.  There is no frame or body rust yet, but plenty on the suspension, drivetrain, exhaust, some engine components, axles, etc.  Treating that is going to be fun.  One thing I've been able to learn feom people's youtube experiments is that cosmolene-based (oil and wax instead of rubberized) rust products are much better than the rubberized undercoatings which just trap in moisture (because it's all but impossible to seal 100% of surfaces, water will get in somewhere and then stay in).

 

[DanDweller]

I wonder how many people put in their flooring and set sail, never realizing that water leaks in underneath. Other than making sure there are no leaks before proceeding, it also makes sense to me to make the flooring (and other mods) so that it is removable, to be able to pull it out after a year or two and make sure there are still no leaks. I'm thinking of putting down the insulation and flooring with velcro instead of any glues or screws.

 

[JD GUMBEE]

RTV is NOT the thing to use.

RTV/Silicone rots sheet metal.

Get the gray stuff they use for body panels.

(If that van has not been wrecked previous, I would speak to a Ford rep about your clear manufacturers defect before doing anything else.)

Most of the time, leaks in a vehicle so young turn out to be faulty windshield sealing by one of the "1-800-glass" people.

...and another big mistake people make is sealing the floor tight under a foot of crap that holds coffee spills and boot-water.
Better to use a throw rug over stock floor insulation and sweep out to metal level when you clean.

 

[JD GUMBEE]

BTW, it would be helpful to see which setup yours uses.
I searched and could not find a single repair on this item...(a rather good sign actually.)

Does it look like this??

^^^VIDEO...of a Ford door switch for the person needing such a silly obvious description. (Gas pumping classes registering soon.)

 

[Doubleone]

Wow, this is an interesting situation...  I wired the door chime on my '97 with a switch to shut it off, more for courtesy than stealth.  I can certainly understand the motivation to control the lighting for the same reasons.  I really like the idea of looking to an ambulance upfitter for a solution.  It's all software controlled, and somewhere there is a super smart engineering type that could probably do this for you.  However, (brainstorming here...) if Ford or an upfitter can't reprogram that feature out with software, and you still want to move forward, then I'd look to attack the issue at the load side of the relays.  Parklights, headlights, daytime run lights, etc. can be commanded by the body control module but most of the high amperage 12v loads will be switched somewhere through a relay.  Body control modules and data lines generally run on about 5v but vehicle lighting is still 12v...  In other words a 5v side runs the computer/sensors/data that powers/grounds a relay to switch on the 12v stuff.  Figuring this out will be tricky to do, and as in all things there is always a risk of hurting something... so caveat emptor.  Definitely do not mess with the data side wiring because it's hooked into everything, and I mean everything (abs brakes, airbags, theft, door locks, lights, etc.).  Although CAN bus systems are fairly robust I still would not mess with the coil side of a relay since that will definitely signal a trouble code in the module.  Instead I'd look to add a second piggy-back relay somewhere in the load side, and wire that piggy-back relay back to a switch in the cockpit.  This would tend to be safer for the computer because it would simulate a burnt out bulb.  You'll have to figure out the exact wiring and sensor circuits for the lights, and if the relay is internal or external to the module.  I'm guessing with the amperage needed for lighting and for the shortest wire runs, it will most likely use an external relay somewhere in the engine bay.  Headlights will likely be easier to deal with than individual corner/park lights.  Worst case... you could handle it with a relay right at each light.  I guess it all depends on how much it bugs you, and how motivated you are to re-engineer it...