Please help find a suitable van to build for boondocking.

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B and C said:
Tell the mechanic your concerns on rust and what repairs to whatever he finds would cost.  These are negotiation tools.  I would think in the rust belt that maybe since it's a class B and bought in AZ that it wasn't used for winter driving up there.

The worst than can happen is you go back without a van.

That's a pretty significant risk. I suppose I DO have to consider that.  I need to consider if the brakes work properly so I don't demolish the RV in a wreck. I need to consider the axle is aligned properly or the wheel so it doesn't cause the brakes to fail, etc... Same thing with any system on the vehicle that would cause a wreck or explosion or fire that would total the vehicle. Since (I'm guessing) it's probably not practical to check everything on vehicle head to toe for these types of issues, which issues would more pressing than the others. (considering totaling the vehicle)

I have had to worry about mold enough in a humid climate, I don't want to worry about that in a van. Do people ever pay for a mold or air quality control test in a RV, or is that just overkill? and a leak will be easily spotted?
 
Leaks in roadtreks do happen but not like a rubber roof RV.  Windows are the main concern in a B as well as door gaskets.  The only leak I have had is that ginormous back window in mine.  It is the escape window.    Yours will have normal van back doors.  Leaks should be readily spotted as stains under the windows. 

A misaligned front end will not cause your brakes to fail.  Part of the mechanics inspection should be the brakes as well as front end components.

Here is a used car checklist that you can go by: View attachment used-car-checklist.pdf
 

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I think that if you are buying from a reputable dealer you should be able to be confident that this rig is what they are representing it to be.

The mechanic should look at it for you, be prepared to given a written statement as to condition and to take pictures of any areas of concern.

Be sure they and you look at the roof.

Good luck!
 
WanderingRose said:
The mechanic should look at it for you, be prepared to given a written statement as to condition and to take pictures of any areas of concern.

I didn't understand what you meant by a written statement & if i'm giving it, the RV dealer is, or the mechanic is.
 
The mechanic should write up his assessment of your vehicle for you.

Something reflecting he looked at it and found it sound, or not, and why.

That covers him, and you who are paying for it.
 
You can always ask the mechanic. He will probably do his normal check, anything more will be extra.

Just pay attention to the part of the list that says to pass on the vehicle unless you want major repair bills.

Make sure the vin on the title matches the one on the vehicle. Being a dealer, this shouldn't be a problem.
 
Needs normal interior paint.
Looks like a paint color chosen to induce calm.

My first RV purchase was a 1972 Open Road class A, 350 Chevy based. Purchased in 1997 to tow a race car, 1978 Toyota Corolla, to the local road course in Waterford, Michigan. Rickety house. Solid running gear. Never used it for camping.
 
Opinions certainly vary.

Many many years ago I was looking at buying a house...the realtor was taking me around to a few, we looked at one, which although was in my price range, the living room had black and white checkerboard SHAG (deep knap, hairy) carpet. We both....well....we kinda went...yeah, we can offer a lot less on this one, it seriously needs new carpet. It looked ridiculous. Stupid. And un-livable.

Well, a few days later after I had submitted a serious offer, minus about $2000 allowance 'for new carpet'...they responded with something like, 'the carpet is fine, it looks great...how can you say that, and we refuse your offer'...

LOL....OK...fine with me. But I just dont like puke colors, at least not for my living space.

Next!
 
I would be a million times more concerned with rust over mold. mold is an easy fix, rust can make a vehicle dangerously unsafe. highdesertranger
 
Just a thought. You're working hard to get the perfect situation in a non perfect time frame. Don't make the mistake of talking yourself into this being your only "real" option. We've all made bad decisions because of time constraints. This is a big purchase that you're going to be living with, literally, for a long time

If this class b isn't the one for whatever reason you night consider just picking up a cheap standard full size van and doing a quick and easy no build build inside.

This will give you the time to really consider your options and look for the exact right one while also giving you experience in finding out what you really want while living on the road. Right now you're just guessing (with some very educated advice here) like everyone does before they get some experience themselves.

When you find it, you can drive there, buy it, and sell your old van. Don't let your inner salesperson speed speed you up and talk you into something you might regret.

If this one ends up being your perfect match, that's great. Just give yourself the option in case it isn't.
 
So house is sold YAY. Money in bank ready to buy. That was Friday and dealer isn't open till Monday so I meandered my way up here and just got to the hotel after looking at and taking pics/vids of the van.

This might be a walk away from thing. Would like input. I have the pics and vids on my phone but can't figure out how to get them here from the phone lol without a pc
 
Ok, I have figured how to upload the pictures from under the van to my discord server. There's quite a few since I didn't know what was what. I just thought I might be seeing a lot of red and it worried me. I think it was WR that suggested rust can't be fixed and is dangerous. (How is it dangerous btw) and should I run, confront him on the misrepresentation of the vehicle, and/or insist on a major reduction in the price? He advertised as no rust multiple times, emphasizing its registration as being in Arizona and in the last 9 years its been in PA it was in someone's garage until winter when they drove to AZ to skip salt/snow. This appears to be a lie?

What do you think? I don't mind leaving it behind. I've sunk 500 into his deposit, about 1000 in travel expenses to get here. I'm considering litigation, 8m a little passed but I dont see him till tomorrow.

I was able to upload the pics to my discord server (but I think you need the client, but maybe not.) This is the link to my server and its in the "general" tab. 

https://discord.gg/ngS3g4v

This is LITTERALLY a mom/pop operation m&p rv in dillsburg
 
You can upload pictures here, it is not brain surgery.
We shouldn't have to sign up to a site you want to drum up traffic too, and could be insecure.

There are links below the message field that allow you to upload pics.
BROWSE > select file > ADD ATTACHMENT
 
If you bother to read the thread, I think its obvious im not trying to "drum up support" for my discord lol. Who cares about that. Its not unsecured lol....https. discord is a very common and well known app, and finally as I said, im working from a phone, not a pc. But thanks for the tip, trying it now. I have problems seeing the tiny screens and missed that button. Ok only let's 20 pics i got 57. Ill try it in the next 3 posts.
 
Tires will be needed immediately (cracking sidewalls). Price tires before you go. You may need front end components as the fittings have been over greased. A complete front end rebuild with an alignment cost me about $2K on my 3500.

Looks like surface rust to me but I am not there to stick a screwdriver to it. Your mechanics inspection should tell you these things and estimated costs. The 4 person seating area in the back is also the bed. I live out of my van, not in it. I have been stuck for a couple of days inside because of inclimate weather though. At least with the passenger seat turned around, pulled all the way forward and reclined, it makes a great recliner using the seat behind it for a foot rest.
 
Sofisintown said:
You can upload pictures here, it is not brain surgery.
We shouldn't have to sign up to a site you want to drum up traffic too, and could be insecure.

There are links below the message field that allow you to upload pics.
BROWSE > select file > ADD ATTACHMENT
per your request:batch#1

(Unfortunately, batch too large, its not brain surgery, but its not just knowing ur shapes either.)
 
B and C said:
Tires will be needed immediately (cracking sidewalls).  Price tires before you go.  You may need front end components as the fittings have been over greased.  A complete front end rebuild with an alignment cost me about $2K on my 3500. 

Looks like surface rust to me but I am not there to stick a screwdriver to it.  Your mechanics inspection should tell you these things and estimated costs.  The 4 person seating area in the back is also the bed.  I live out of my van, not in it.  I have been stuck for a couple of days inside because of inclimate weather though.  At least with the passenger seat turned around, pulled all the way forward and reclined, it makes a great recliner using the seat behind it for a foot rest.
Thank you so much for your input as always b and c. Tires I looked at some that were about 250 each. If it's just surface rust then it might not mean that he misrepresented it then? I was just super pissed when he said it wasn't driven in salt and had no rust. But maybe all cars have some rust? I was so passed i was honna ask him for 1/2 price
 I planned to take out that couch/table area in the back and make a proper bed.
 
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