Please help find a suitable van to build for boondocking.

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highdesertranger said:
"but a locking diff has to be engaged with a switch or button on the dash"

not true.


Ok...I did say it was the barebones simple answer (that makes sense in this context)...not trying to cover ALL products of every manufacturer, choice, and design.

For the OP, it is probably 99% certain that if he walks into a shop and says I need a locking diff installed into this (road legal) vehicle's rear end, they will be installing a switch on the dash for the electric or air operated mechanism. Most people who install a locking diff are doing it BECAUSE they can switch it on and off as needed.
 
morkani said:
Wow, that's impressive, and outside, it just looks like a van lol.
You don't really boondock with all those amenities right? I wouldn't think you'd have the power for all that even with the gene.
  
Boondocking is my main mode.  Rv parks are for when I need to do everything, dump, fill, laundry, long shower, groceries but use them rarely.  I have 200 watts of solar on the roof and 200 watts as portables that I can put in the sun when I am in the shade or need to catch up on charging.  These feed 350 Ah of AGM batteries.

So yes, I have all the amenities while boondocking.  I run the generator for about 15 minutes in the morning to make a pot of coffee and it gives the batteries a boost first thing in the morning.  I am generally up around 5:30 or so.  It is an onan and approved for national parks use, not a cheap open frame noisy one.  It is mounted under the van with remote start (inside).

I can stay out two weeks at a time and it would be longer but my black tank is getting pretty full.  I take navy showers 3 times a week with less than a gallon of water used.  When the wife was with, it was a week at a time.

Thirty five gallons of fresh water and another 7 in a blue container for emergencies, 27 gallon grey tank and a 10 gallon black tank.  I wish my 4.3 CF fridge was bigger but it does last for two weeks, just not enough ice cream room :(
 
morkani said:
Wow, that's impressive, and outside, it just looks like a van lol.
You don't really boondock with all those amenities right? I wouldn't think you'd have the power for all that even with the gene.

I do quite a bit of boondocking, actually, just don’t drive miles off onto rutted roads into the middle of nowhere to do it.

These Classb’s have a coach battery, which allows me to charge the phone and IPad and powers minimal things inside when you are not plugged into electricity, but I don’t try to run my air conditioner or microwave nor watch television if I don’t have electricity.

I bought this year a 100 watt solar suitcase, which at a very nominal price does an excellent job of topping off the battery when I don’t have electricity.

Connect it to the battery, set it in the sun, and it charges.

To me, boondocking is camping wherever without hookups, tho in an established campground it is more commonly called dry camping.

It seems to work against the benefits of being out in nature to try to power a lot of things while out there, to me.

Minimize power usage is my approach.
 
Gas milage is another factor. My van is tall and heavy (~9700 lbs wet). I have a 454 (7.4 L for the young ones) with a 35 gallon gas tank. The generator also runs off this tank but won't run if the tank gets down to 1/4. I don't get stranded this way. I get about 12 MPG on the flats with no wind driving 60-65. Headwinds and going up hill cuts into that.

Driving on rutted roads is easy once you get the hang of it, never put your wheels in the ruts. Picking your way through the big rocks is easy if you have a good idea of where your tires and low spots are. Wash boarded roads are tough with the stiff suspension and most times I am idling along in low gear picking my line. What's the rush?

I don't remember where you are but I am in Humble, TX near the lake. If you want to stop by, I will gladly give you a tour. The van has been sitting for almost two years now so it is in rough shape. It'll take me at least a month to get it road worthy again :( I do keep it inspected and tagged though.
 
slow2day said:
There are several lower mileage GMC vans that look good on the Penske site.The Transits are FWD and should be avoided if you want to offroad much. You can google pros and cons of FWD.

I've recently travelled over some pretty rough terrain in my 2WD and have had no problems. You just need to know the limits of your vehicle. That only comes thru experience.
Thank you so much for your input here. FWD (front wheel drive?) probably a bad idea too because most of your weight will be in the back anyway?
 
morkani said:
Yea, I've been convinced that I'll never really be able to go anywhere with the box truck. & I'd still like to do some fishing/foraging/being in nature a bit. I hear I can access more BLM roads with a van.

I intended to comment on this and got sidetracked....yes, it goes without saying I think, that the large penske commercial truck you were looking at would have problems accessing some areas..... width, height, weight, and duals all work together to limit where you can go.

Of course, you would be able to access the flat, hard-packed BLM lands and LTVA lands around Quartzsite, no problem there, but forest roads, rough two-tracks, and rough country travel around lakes and streams, you can forget about that. 

A 2wd or 4wd van would be much more nimble, and allow access in to a lot more places. If you DO manage to get a normal sized van stuck, it can be recovered much more easily than a 26,000 pound truck can be, especially if it is stuck up to the axles or frame....that might be a nightmare to deal with if you were embedded in mud or sand or snow somewhere in the boonies.

Many years ago I drove several varieties of large straight trucks and if you even sneeze wrong, they can get stuck in the shallow mud near the gutter on a dirt road in front of someones house! You have to keep them on solid, level, flat ground as much as possible.

Don't get me wrong, they have their place, but your desires to get off the beaten path, and the limited abilities of a large truck like that, might not be a good 'fit'....
 
slow2day said:
There are several lower mileage GMC vans that look good on the Penske site.The Transits are FWD and should be avoided if you want to offroad much. You can google pros and cons of FWD.

I've recently travelled over some pretty rough terrain in my 2WD and have had no problems. You just need to know the limits of your vehicle. That only comes thru experience.
I forgot to ask as well......it looks like you are in favor of the Penske site. IE:They don't seem like an overpriced operation?
 
B and C said:
....I don't remember where you are but I am in Humble, TX near the lake.  If you want to stop by, I will gladly give you a tour.  The van has been sitting for almost two years now so it is in rough shape.  It'll take me at least a month to get it road worthy again :(  I do keep it inspected and tagged though.

I'm in Florida right now, but of course, once I get going, I'll be going every where man, I'll go anywhere. "P
 
I found a 1996 190 versitle but it's got 200k miles.

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Sold by a dealer and not a private seller[/font]
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I'm a little timid about the age of it, also, is this still too big for the things I want to do? [/font]
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Is this one too heavy or low to the ground do you think for me the kind of boondocking I want to do/or drive up to the lake and go fishing?? Seems like the price is just right too (15k) .  Maybe I can get the price down for cash too. I gasped when i saw the AC & hoped everything else would be ok lol.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]@slow2day,@B and C, @anyone else....what do you think? I think it's pretty close to what B and C has(200?), but I don't understand why it's so cheap, that's sketchy to me. Can you tell me the reason's not to buy it?[/font]

[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I'm still struggling to determine if penske is a good place for me to buy a blank van, anyone with familiarity on the topic able to check out a few of their vehicles to see if they are pretty much legit pricing please? slow2day said that their low mileage GMC van's seem to be good vehicles, but I'm wondering if i'm getting ripped off if I buy from them because of the pricing. If not, then I don't mind paying like an extra 5-15% extra buying from a brand like them or a dealership than some private seller where there's no recourse if the vehicle is a lemon or it has mold or something.[/font]
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]I don't mind paying a LITTLE extra for the brand if it means that I can get my vehicle serviced easier with the waranty they sell with the proven vehicles.[/font]


[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]Thanks again ! :)[/font]
 
https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2000-Roadtrek-Versatile-190-5013537755

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1996-Roadtrek-VERSATILE-190-5012194665

are the 2 I came up with That I think I like. But i'm wondering, is this type of vehicle called something other than a class b? 'cause things like wennibago's are in class b's and I don't want anything that big, I'm only considering the versatile 'cause B and C said he uses it to boondock without issue. (I want to be go a LITTLE bit off road to get to the lake over there or something like that.)
If there are a whole class of van's that would fit my needs that aren't just the roadtrek's, I can search those too. 

I found these 2 but I wasn't sure if they would fit my needs less.
[font=Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, sans-serif]https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1998-Coach-House-Freedom-wide-body-5013571982[/font]
https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1993-Airstream-190-5013485977

Also, when I see those "vent" on the side of the van's, does that mean it's got a generator on it?
like in the back of the Coach House Freedom. (although it looks pretty rugged inside)
 
Those vents you see on the outside are for things like the refrigerator and hot water heater.

Where it lists “Class” as Class B, that’s what those are, tiny and self contained motorhomes like what some of us have.

I’ll let others more technically savvy advise you specifically, but I would not buy anything sight unseen.

Good luck!
 
Wow, prices have gone up! I guess everyone is afraid of flying so are now buying RV's and the ones that have them are looking to cash in. I paid $14K for mine in 2015 and it only had 95K on the clock (158K now). I will replace whatever I have to to keep it going (engine, tranny). as I have made many upgrades/changes to it with more to come.

Class B's are built in a standard van with a high top added so you can stand up unless it is the newer euro vans that are tall already.

Class B+'s are wider than a van but not as wide as a C but doesn't have the overcab sleeping area and are fiberglass. These are kinda in a grey area as a classification. Some are as wide as class C's but have storage over the cab instead of a sleeping area. I call them C-'s but they are classified as a B+. B's usually have much better construction. My B+ has a LOT more storage than a regular B and is only 77 inches wide at its' widest point with 6'1" inside height. It took me a year to find it after I made up my mind as to exactly what we needed after our vannin days.

We traveled extensively in vans most of our married life. We put over 250K miles on a '77 Dodge shorty regular roof (109" wheelbase). Wish I still had that one as it was modified a LOT.

You are from flatland country. Have you ever done any mountain or back road driving in the mountains or desert? I'm talking real mountains, not the hilly smokies. The questions you are asking is making me think not.

Someone else may need to give you perspective because I have clocked over a million miles on all types of roads and am a confident driver. I'll drive those dirt roads with a sheer drop off and no guard rail while not hugging the mountain side :)

I would rule dually tire out if you are going to drive in rocky terrain as they are notorious for getting rocks wedged between the wheels giving you a flat in the sidewall and not repairable (new tire or two).
 
OK, took me awhile to post the above. I'm not a fast typist.

That one looks nice but isn't PA in the rust belt? If so, it needs to be checked for rust damage underneath.

Those vents from front to back are: furnace, fridge, water heater and venting for the generator.

The 190's have less overhang in the rear than mine so could getin places I can't because a dip is too deep.

Be sure that they can demonstrate that all systems work and have the rest checked by a mechanic unless you are qualified yourself.

Almost anything you buy will come with one smallish house battery and solar is not mentioned.
 
B and C said:
Class B's are built in a standard van with a high top added so you can stand up unless it is the newer euro vans that are tall already.

My B+ has a LOT more storage than a regular B and is only 77 inches wide at its' widest point with 6'1" inside height.  It took me a year to find it after I made up my mind as to exactly what we needed after our vannin days.

You are from flatland country.  Have you ever done any mountain or back road driving in the mountains or desert?  I'm talking real mountains, not the hilly smokies.  The questions you are asking is making me think not.

Someone else may need to give you perspective because I have clocked over a million miles on all types of roads and am a confident driver.  I'll drive those dirt roads with a sheer drop off and no guard rail while not hugging the mountain side :)

I would rule dually tire out if you are going to drive in rocky terrain as they are notorious for getting rocks wedged between the wheels giving you a flat in the sidewall and not repairable (new tire or two).


ABSOLUTELY NOT! lol

I did take a 26' Uhaul box truck pulling a car trailer behind it, through the mountains from indiana through north carolina down to florida, hit some really large mountain roads....and told myself that i'd always drive around them from then on lol. I'm just scared of the brakes failing let alone the rest of that drive. (I had a flat tire on the trailer up there & took the first exit like 10 minutes later. had no cell service....totally sucked experience.)
I'd take the small mountain roads, but nothing with those large grades. I also took an 8k mile trip around the USA 2 years ago for a month, so I got a little desert driving/snow driving/(used to drive in indiana but hate snow driving) maybe easier in a heavier vehicle?/

I've seen some class B's though that didn't look like a van, they had that boxy structure to it and didn't seem like it would lend itself to driving on "grassy" terrain (is what I imagine is what i'd drive on to get near fishing spots.)

When you're talking about "your B+" that's not the Roadtrek 200 is it? I was pretty sure that was rated as a B right?

Also, when you talking about driving on "rocky" terrain, it sounds like you're talking about more than just gravel? & these vans can have the 2 wheels? (not sure why one would want that either, except traction?)


edit: from your 2nd post :p that 190 from PA....it says in the description & he mentioned on the phone " Previously title in Arizona." I suppose that's why he said it because he wanted to quell fears about rust?
 
Rust never sleeps. It may have been an AZ vehicle but how long in PA? One winter salt could do it.

My 200 is a B+ (wider and longer than the 190), has more storage and a bigger fridge, two drawers in the kitchen. A lot of little differences. We started as two traveling so needed more storage. I have extra storage as a solo traveler:) A 190 is perfect for one. If you can find one local to look at would be best as you can gauge how you would eat, sleep cook, shower, etc. Don't make it a quick look, an hour at least.

Going down hill is all about using a lower gear, you're going slower than the other traffic, so what? Also using the brakes hard to slow down a little more and then letting off to let the cool. If you're using the brakes too much, a lower gear yet. It is all about technique.
 
20 yo vans w/200k aren't your best bet for reliability. You need to decide if reliability is more important than comfort. If Penske offers a warranty, research how good it is. Also check used values on NADA and KBB.
 
The last one posted only had about 70K miles but is still old. Shoot, mine is almost as old and has a lot more miles.
 
B and C said:
The last one posted only had about 70K miles but is still old.  

Oh, didn't see that one. Still, I'd spend the cash on a newer van with some set aside for a build, quality components.
 
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