Please Critique My System

[Gideon33w]

Since everything else has been covered I will just chime in that you don't have to do the work at night. This just adds risk that something will get goofed. Simply take a sheet of cardboard and lay it over your panels. Some type of weight or duct tape will ensure they don't blow away while you're in the middle of wiring. Plus, as soon as you're done you can remove the cardboard and test the system versus waiting till morning and having no way to stop the panels from getting sun should something be goofed.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Thanks, this makes so much sense and I hadn't even considered it. I was just adding up AHs

So now, I have a more expensive WindyNation 100ah battery that I can't afford another right now... .
and I also have a cheap EverStart 85ah battery.. that I could afford another...
   
I'm gonna go with a second EverStart
I guess I'll give away or sell the WindyNation.....

Do you intend on letting the batteries discharge fully or nearly so?

If so, the batteries should be the same, but if you only plan to slightly discharge the batteries, lets say for running a few LEDs and a laptop for a couple of hours, it will be fine..

In fact, I have a system on my van that uses two mismatched batteries, but these are not used for deep-cycle use, and I also have an isolator circuit if I need it.

 

[ArmorAbby]

Do you intend on letting the batteries discharge fully or nearly so?

If so, the batteries should be the same, but if you only plan to slightly discharge the batteries, lets say for running a few LEDs and a laptop for a couple of hours, it will be fine..

In fact, I have a system on my van that uses two mismatched batteries, but these are not used for deep-cycle use, and I also have an isolator circuit if I need it.

I have a relay type isolater also in my system.  But I didn't know any better and when I had mathed the watts used for my fridge, I considered the whole 100ahs and not the 50ahs that is actually safe to use with a 100ah battery -- if you get my drift with that sentence... and over discharged the battery  
I'm hoping now, with the two batteries, equaling 90 usable ah - (one is 100ah the second is 85ah) *edit*
That I would be ok leaving the fridge on over night.  

*EDIT AGAIN* I didn't want to use my alternater to bring it all the way back up and not enough sun for solar to do the job entirely which is why the WindyNation is out and getting charged at the AutoStore and just the EverStart is there now*

But I have no intention to come close to draining either again or coming close.  

Which is why I'm hoping to get a low voltage cutoff system... or at least monitor my usage somehow so that I never go low again...

 

[Trebor English]

I would like to use a "low-voltage disconnect" device and something to tell me my volts while my system is running. 
Would someone recommend a couple good brands for me look into with this or these devices? 

For voltage monitoring I just use a multimeter.  It is normally turned off so I don't run down the AA batteries in the meter. 

On Amazon I searched for low voltage disconnect.  This came up.  It is $12.79 and can turn off up to 10 amps.  You could use it for lights or a fan that would get your attention but not for an inverter.  It has switches to set the turn off voltage and the turn back on voltage.

https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-...262965&sr=8-1&keywords=low+voltage+disconnect

I have a cheap PWM solar controller that has a low voltage disconnect.  It is like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Co...01264315&sr=1-4&keywords=solar+controller+PWM

For $20 you could have a low voltage disconnect and each battery could have its own solar controller.  That would make it so that you could avoid the issues with two different batteries in parallel.  You would have to split up your loads, some on the 80 Amp hour battery and some on the 100. 

With two controllers you could leave the two solar panels tied in parallel.  Whichever battery had the lower voltage would get more current.  Splitting them, 100 watts for each battery, would leave the hungrier battery with only half of the 200 watts you have rather than a larger share of the total. 

Or, you could use the second solar controller just as an over voltage disconnect with no panel connected at all.  It is more expensive but it can be programmed for the off voltage and the on voltage over a much larger range of voltages.  It also has a couple of USB ports.

 

[ArmorAbby]

For voltage monitoring I just use a multimeter.  It is normally turned off so I don't run down the AA batteries in the meter. 

I considered keeping mine just attached permanently - but was worried about when I'm not in the van or when I'm sleeping. The Inverter wakes me up and starts beeping when it got low - so I woke up and disconnected all electric - but it was already low by then, and I had to unplug it all myself. 

In the end... now.. I'm guessing... I will do that.. just keep it there permanently.. I got little alligator clips that kept it on there for me while I was working earlier... and the best way to handle it is to just not leave the fridge plugged in all the time. I can't get a thermostat cause it's not REALLY a fridge, it's a thermocooler.. so it will keep running and running and probably never hit whatever temp I set... and I'd have to know the weather that day too to determine 40 below ambiant.. if you get my drift with how they work... 

ahhh....   

Anyway, I think I may keep both of these batteries for now.... never drain them... and only have the fridge on when I'm around to monitor it.. 
Then it should be all good.. as long as I hook it all up correctly tonight...

 

[Trebor English]

Don't get rid of the Windy Nation battery. It probably has twice the actual capacity of the EverStart.

 

[ArmorAbby]

I have a cheap PWM solar controller that has a low voltage disconnect.  It is like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Co...01264315&sr=1-4&keywords=solar+controller+PWT

This here.. I like this idea.. so my panels would go in there.. out to the batteries and my loads (fuse box, inverter) would also come out of the Controller?

 

[ArmorAbby]

Since everything else has been covered I will just chime in that you don't have to do the work at night.

Thanks, I'd considered this with a blanket or something instead because I don't have a big enough piece of anything to cover it.

 

[ArmorAbby]

Don't get rid of the Windy Nation battery.  It probably has twice the actual capacity of the EverStart.

ok, I'll keep it...  
I have to learn to stop making decisions so quickly with post responses and let a few build up before replying

 

[Trebor English]

The load disconnect is turned off by a transistor switch and it has limited capacity.  I think it is about 10 amps.  Inverters take huge surges, don't hook an inverter to a low voltage disconnect.  My disconnect is connected to an LED light so that I see it when the light goes out and my  laptop charger.

It doesn't hurt to have a spare solar charge controller.  If you have a spare it makes troubleshooting and diagnosis easier.  The Renogy controller you have may be a better controller so you might keep it for charging and use the other for turning things off.

The shunt and monitor thing you got, does it integrate with the charge controller?  It might be good to keep the Renogy controller just for that if it is integrated.

 

[Trebor English]

Instead of covering my solar panel when working on the electrics I disconnect one of the panel wires.  The minus is easiest to get to on mine but either one being disconnected stops the input.

I have forgotten to do that several times.  Once I left the controller connected to the panel with no battery connected (the disaster recipe) for two days and there was no problem.  I think some controllers are sensitive to this more than others.

 

[Weight]

It is a misconception that connecting panels and controller and batteries in the wrong order will fry the controller or worse. With only small wattage 12 volt panels there will be no problem. Just be careful not to short the panel wires as the spark may frighten the horses. But just a blanket over the panel will be good, if you worry. You are correct in your wiring diagram. Be sure to have a fuse at the battery positive. Sometimes free advise is worth every penny. Do you have a meter or just the shunt? What size is the shunt in amps? I would be more concerned that your ground connections in the foot well are good. Especially with charging, small voltage losses are critical. I would at least have a ground wire from the battery to charge controller. Batteries can hurt you, be careful.

 

[ArmorAbby]

Both battery and isolater have grounds. Charge controller has a negative that goes directly to the battery, but nothign specific to grounding to the frame.

There is a tiny little 1"x2" meter with the shunt. 100amps.

 

[John61CT]

Mixing unlike batts in one bank is not the end of the world, they will not be optimal nor last as long, but if on a budget just start saving for a proper matched bank of Sam's GCs when the current ones die.

 

[GotSmart]

It is a misconception that connecting panels and controller and batteries in the wrong order will fry the controller or worse.

If the experts say to NOT do something ~~~ It is a good bet they have a much better reasoning than someone over the internet. 

ALWAYS.  Connect panels last, disconect panels first.  

Take your time and complete every step in order.  

When running wires, always mark them before you put them into place.  

Electrical safety is not somethig to have a "misconception" about. 

Just do it in order. Take your time, and check every connection three times.  

Overkill on ground connections is a myth.  Make sure everything is solid.

 

[Weight]

Got Smart. I do stand by my statement. Unless it is some off-shore-junk-built controller, no damage will be done. You will be better off without that. There is shock danger from the possible high voltage from solar panels. Not much chance of that with one or two renogy 12 volt-ers.

 

[ArmorAbby]

I have another Question.. Im getting 12.6 reading all day from my batteries now. Both hooked up. 12.6 readings with an hour or so difference with the fridge plugged in. But its the same readings with the Van on or off. Shouldn't it be higher with the van on? I tested the reading with Positive on one battery, Negative on the other. Two Battery Bank System.

 

[SternWake]

If a controller says not to remove battery connections while solar panels are still feeding it, follow their instructions.

If they list an order of hooking things up or disconnecting them, follow it

If they say a specific fuse rating is required in between controller and battery, use one.

RTFM and second guess it at your own expense.

 

[Trebor English]

I have another Question.. Im getting 12.6 reading all day from my batteries now. Both hooked up. 12.6 readings with an hour or so difference with the fridge plugged in. But its the same readings with the Van on or off. Shouldn't it be higher with the van on? I tested the reading with Positive on one battery, Negative on the other. Two Battery Bank System.

First, the 12.6 all day might not be right.  With the sun shining the voltage should have come up.  The windy nation battery may be taking a lot of current recovering from the deep discharge but the voltage still should have come up.  For the voltage to be the same all day it's like the solar is not charging.  The controller has two leds that are green, amber, or red.  What are they?

The two panels should be producing 5 amps each.  If 5 amps goes to the cooler that should leave 5 amps to charge the battery.  The battery voltage should have come up some.

With the engine started the engine battery should be around 14 volts.  The isolator switch has two big studs, one for the engine battery, one for the Windy Nation and EverStart.  What are the voltages there?  The engine battery voltage should be on one and the house battery voltage on the other.  If the isolator switch is on then the two batteries should be tied together and be at the same voltage.  That should be a lot more than 12.6. 

Since the Windy Nation battery got seriously discharged it could be that one of the fuses blew.  There is a fuse at each end of the cable that ties the batteries together.  When the isolator switched on the surge from the engine battery may have been enough to blow one of the fuses.

 

[ArmorAbby]

Yes, both batteries read same voltage. I tested each on its own, and together as a positive on one and negative on the other.
There was no sun today but there will be tomorrow. But even without sun, the isolater should keep it up, right?
I got a new multimeter and the read from the isolater is weird. Its an auto thing and I have no clue what it thinks its reading from the isolater but its almost 150somethings.
Im really just so tired of this now... I don't even wanna deal with it anymore and need to just leave it alone and not think about it for a while which is pretty much impossible sitting right next to it. Moody woman now... it'll pass...

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