Pex repair

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4RunnerBlues

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Hi All,
I have a leak in the pex plumbing of hot water tank in my 2012 Chevy Roadtrek. Someone told me this is not a DIY job, but I don’t see why. Are special tools needed? The leak seems to be coming at a plastic tee and perhaps from a valve also. The clamps seem to be crimped on. Your input appreciated.


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Standard pex will work on RV pex. I repaired a water line on my RT with house pex from Lowes. Watch some videos on pex installation and you should be good.
 
Here are photos. Replace with same types of fittings and clamps?IMG_2658.jpgIMG_2659.jpg


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yes you need special tools(crimper) if you go with crimping. however there are 3 different ways to do it and I believe that it depends what type of PEX you have. there are also shark-bite fittings that require no tools. there are also brass fittings. lots of options. if you are handy you can do it. just need a game plan. highdesertranger
 
I  would go with shark bite fittings. They just push into place. Those crimping joints I think are done so you have to take it back to the rv shop. Kind of a job security.

I had to do pretty much the same thing and my mobile mechanic was not going to be able to fit me in for several weeks. But he sent me instructions and a list of parts and armed with those I did it. What an empowering feeling!

IMG_20130516_175945.jpg

I had to cut the pex on both sides of the leak to get rid of the damaged piece.

The picture here shows the two different joints. I  did the ones on the right. Another thing to keep in mind. There are a couple sizes of pex. I think mine was 1/4....so unless you know for sure, cut the damaged piece out, take it to the rv parts store and match up the size. And then go back with all the parts. I've also had a lot of success taking my pictures into the rv parts store and the workers there show me what I need.  I've replaced the leaking valve on the back of 2 toilets and the ujoint under our shower.  I never would have had the confidence to do that if I hadn't done this simple one first.

If your leaking piece is in the second picture you're going to need to cut on the top and far side of that t-junction and on the other side of the crimp from the leaking piece. take the pictures into the parts store and have them help you match that up.
 

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I guess Roadtrek changed the way they connect the pex. In my 2000, it is all compression fittings. Very easy to work with.

I had pex in a house and yes, it takes a special crimping tool and crimps. I did have a line outside on the Roadtrek that ruptured from road debris. Shark bites worked well for joining it back together. You might try to use the crimping tool on the existing crimps before replacing anything.

Get a water pressure regulator if hooking up to city/campground water sources. Some can have quite high pressure and may have contributed to your leak.
 
Thanks all, I don’t have much strength and don’t think I could use the crimpers I’ve seen so far on YouTube. So I am investigating the sharkbites. And as HDR said, will make a plan.


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This vehicle is new to me, and I suspect the leak is from freezing but who knows. When hooking to a faucet, I do use a brass pressure regulator.


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Depending on where the leak is, you could remove that whole assembly by unscrewing the fittings and cutting the remaining lines in a place that is easy to get at to re-attach. Then rebuild or repair out of the van, and sharkbite it back into place.
 
Rebuilding the whole assembly outside the van is probably the best solution. I’m just not sure I can do it because it’s tiny, some of the pex pipes are only 1-1/4” long. In particular the pipes going from tee fittings back to the tank are very short. Attached is a photo of one.
Maybe I could use some shark bite elbows and bring the whole mess forward?IMG_2664.jpg


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Bringing the whole mess forward just might interfere space wise with shutting the cabinet?  In any case, the pipe leading into the heater from the hot water bypass is the one that burst in my case.  And it was from freezing.  I did use the antifreeze, but shut the bypass valves at the beginning so as not to waste any pink stuff.  After that experience, I let it run into the hot water tank momentarily at least and THEN shut the bypass valves.  That way all the pipes had some antifreeze in them. YMMV
 
I drain the H/W heater for storage.  Draining it and checking the anode should be done yearly at a minimum.  No sense wasting 6 gallons of pink stuff.
 
I had just cleaned out the hot water tank and replaced anode and found leak when desanitizing fresh tanks.


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StarEcho said:
Bringing the whole mess forward just might interfere space wise with shutting the cabinet?  In any case, the pipe leading into the heater from the hot water bypass is the one that burst in my case. 

Did you use crimps and if so, what type? Do they take a lot of strength? From what I’ve seen, big guys seem to struggle with it, and I am woman.



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StarEcho Thanks for showing the Sharkbite fittings, in the photo. My nearest Lowes (25 miles away) has brass fittings only on their website. Where would I get the plastic sharkbite fittings ? Are they a specialty part ? I have a under the floor leak in the bathroom that needs fixing soon. Those crimping tools are expensive. And, The space is too small to get too with them.
 
Can a regular house plumber do this job? If they are not familiar with RVs?




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If they are familiar with PEX they should be able to do it. When we built a house awhile back, the plumber put in PEX and had no leaks.
 
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