Dodge transmission line connectors

[4RunnerBlues]

Hi All, I would appreciate any information on removing and replacing the connector shown at the end of this post. This is connection between hoses (11/32” I think) in and out of the small transmission cooler inside radiator to the 3/8” metal transmission lines. I need to replace a damaged hose and should also change the ATF.
There’s some youtubers who grind these things off and replace these fittings with regular hose clamps. I’m hoping there’s a better way.
Also, your input on whether to add another transmission cooler, and if so, what type?
Ok, here’s the fitting which appears to be a compression type. Your thoughts appreciated.
Ok, for some reason I can’t post a photo (profile missing) and will try to do that later. Fitting is similar to an AC fitting. I don’t see any clips.



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[highdesertranger]

yes on an aftermarket cooler, I like this type,

http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/oil....html?osCsid=0c9f183e1b19ec7839a87db8cc266afd

not sure about the fitting I need to see a pic. not sure about why you can't post a pic never heard of that error message. did you follow the instructions?

highdesertranger

 

[Weight]

My Dodge. Metal lines from the transmission to a few inches of the lower radiator. Then short lengths of fuel line hose onto push on fittings out of the radiator tank. Hose held by screw clamp onto metal lines and radiator fittings. I have seen spring clamps used on these lines. Just remove the little hose clamps and you may have to split the old rubber lines to get them off the ends.

 

[4RunnerBlues]

[img=914x3024]https://www.fastmailusercontent.com...bcNnWtlY31nOwhEBYSf4Y&accept=image/jpeg[/img]

 

[4RunnerBlues]

That photo looks compressed side to side on my Mac. Could not post from phone.
In middle of photo, there is the short hose. Right side connects to radiator with hose clamp.
Left side shows the fitting to transmission line.
Let me know if the photo cannot be deciphered.

 

[highdesertranger]

well it took awhile but I think I see it now. it has a hose clamp on one side(right) and a permanent ferrule on the other side. you can cut the ferrule off and replace it with a hose clamp. however there should be something to lock the line on to the tubing, just slipping the hose over the steel tubing and putting a hose clamp on is wishful thinking. one day Murphy will show up. the easiest would be to flair the tubing then putting the appropriate barbed fitting on it. this is a fairly easy and bullet proof mod. make sure you use the appropriate rubber hose. plain old standard fuel line is not recommended. highdesertranger

 

[4RunnerBlues]

Thanks! I think the transmission lines may already have a flare, but not sure. I understand the barbed end for the hose, but unsure of the flared line end. Do you have a link to an example of the connector suggested?


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[highdesertranger]

you put an inverted flare on the tube. you put this nut on then flare the tube. the flaring tool is available to rent or free at most auto parts stores.

http://fittingsandadapters.com/inflartubnut.html

inverted flare is like what's on brake lines. then you screw a barb on like these,

http://fittingsandadapters.com/pusfeminflar.html

this makes a long term bullet proof and leak proof repair. plus now the rubber hose part is easy to replace.

highdesertranger

 

[Weight]

Why not fuel hose? There is no such thing as transmission fluid hose. Fuel hose is resistant to all hydrocarbon oils, the temperature from the transmission, and is reinforced to handle any pressure. Fuel hose, not vacuum tubing.
I have seen and worked on many automatic transmissions with a hose clamped to the metal line, without failure. I do use double clamps on my jobs, and use the right sized hose. ie; 5/16 on 5/16 line.

 

[highdesertranger]

well now-a-days plain old regular fuel line is not very good quality and it's not rated for much pressure at all. I would go with fuel injection hose(much better quality) or hydraulic hose. for me I would use hydraulic hose. highdesertranger

 

[Gr8ful]

Don't use fuel line as you're adding a crappy weak spot to fail at the worst spot in the line for damage. The flair is called a double flare like they use on brake lines. Do it right or it will cost you a bunch in the end.

 

[bullfrog]

After having several pieces of fuel line hose harden, I believe due to heat, I looked and found that there is if fact oil cooler line that seems to hold up much better. It can be bought on line and some parts stores sell it in warmer climates. Auto Zone was where I bought it last time.

 

[4RunnerBlues]

Thanks much. It now makes sense.
I have the special 11/32” oil hose so maybe I can get that to work with 3/8” barb.
The flairing seems the tricky part. Have never done that so I’ll have to practice.


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[highdesertranger]

the hard lines are available at auto parts stores it is pretty cheap so you can grab a piece and practice. highdesertranger

 

[4RunnerBlues]

I got lucky. When I removed the damaged lines, I found that the metal was already flared. All done. Good thing since I borrowed a flaring tool from Autozone and did not have the strength to operate it. Thanks to all.


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