Has anyone painted the walls in an RV and if so did the paint stick good or did you need to put a primer on? I don't need primer to cover the color but I have never painted these types of walls to know if the paint sticks.
Painting ?
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WheelEstate USA
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Its best to wash the walls, then a primer, and a good washable latex.
Cut in carefully with a good brush and I found a small 4" roller best since wall spaces are so small.
If you have a steady hand you won't need masking tape, but a small dropcloth is real handy.
Best done while the valances are down.
Cut in carefully with a good brush and I found a small 4" roller best since wall spaces are so small.
If you have a steady hand you won't need masking tape, but a small dropcloth is real handy.
Best done while the valances are down.
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I have a friend who painted the interior of his Class C and it looked great! I'm sorry I don't know any of the details of how he did it.
Bob
Bob
WheelEstate USA
Well-known member
I painted our bdrm area and it was a snap with everything out of the way.
I kept the rest of the walls original, as they cleaned up well and I like the retro look.
Got all my brushes and I'd be happy to help ya knock it out if we were near ya
I bet you can do the deed
I kept the rest of the walls original, as they cleaned up well and I like the retro look.
Got all my brushes and I'd be happy to help ya knock it out if we were near ya
I bet you can do the deed
I can handle it as long as I don't get in an area where I have to twist (my back surgery doesn't let me do much of that) now getting up off my hands & knees maybe tricky! LOL I'm use to painting drywall in our house but these walls are that stuff that looks like wallpaper and I've never painted it and didn't know if the paint would hold well. I'm going to paint all the walls. The kitchen and livingroom area have oak 1/2 way up and I'll be painting the ceiling also because we are having a couple sections replaced. The bathroom will be rough getting on my knees and painting in such a cramped spot and the bedroom is mostly 1/2 walls (1/2 oak). It will take longer to scrub it all down good. And plenty of drop clothes so nothing gets on the new flooring we are having put done.
Patrick46
Well-known member
yeah, if you're gonna paint over the wallboards that have the wallpaper already stuck to it, then you'll need to primer it. Latex should be just fine.
I'd reccommend using Kilz to cover the wallpaper designs, and give a good white block-out base coating.
I'd reccommend using Kilz to cover the wallpaper designs, and give a good white block-out base coating.
WheelEstate USA
Well-known member
What looks like wallpaper is actually a vinyl coating, unless someone papered over it. Paper will "blister" when primed, so it would have to be removed. Primer/paint right over the vinyl tho.
Take care and don't hurt yourself.
We'll be looking forward to pics of your new interior.
Take care and don't hurt yourself.
We'll be looking forward to pics of your new interior.
Do ya think the primer with color in it will work just as good or would a primer then paint over it be best?
I can't paint before the flooring goes down because a friend is taking the RV to his house and replacing a section of floor and some other work for us and hes going to put down the floor while he has it.
I can't paint before the flooring goes down because a friend is taking the RV to his house and replacing a section of floor and some other work for us and hes going to put down the floor while he has it.
compassrose
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I work at Home Depot. I am a certified Paint Associate (LOTS of training) for what it's worth.
When it comes to paint, prep is everything and the proper tools are a close second.
First you need to clean the walls with TSP or TSP Substitute. Follow the directions on the package. Mix up in a bucket of water, clean the walls with a sponge, rinse the TSP off with clean water and a sponge (rinse the sponge out frequently and change the water as it gets dirty). Let the walls dry completely.
Use Kilz 2 latex primer on walls. I suggest two coats but you will most likely ignore that and only use one coat because you think you are saving money.
Buy the Behr Ultra (the one with the primer). The reason for the two primers is that the Kilz is helping the paint adhere to the walls. The primer in the Behr Ultra covers stains and lays down a better finish. The reason I suggest the Behr Ultra over the Behr Premium is because it is thicker and just plain covers better, especially if you get a dark colour (get your primer tinted at the paint desk) or use a translucent colour like yellow and red. If you don't paint much, you will get a better finish with Behr Ultra. You will need TWO COATS. THREE if you are using a red or yellow. Tinting the primer a bit for DARK colours makes the paint go a tad farther. On Ultra, the first coat is the "primer" and looks bad, second coat is the coverage coat. If using red or yellow, you may need a third coat as it may not cover completely on the second coat. It's the colour not the paint.
Don't be stingy with the paint. Too many people will not roll on enough paint in a single application trying to stretch the paint coverage. A gallon of paint covers about 250 to 400 SF (I generally figure a gallon at 300 and do not factor in windows and doors). Multiply the length of your walls X wall height to get SF. Go to the Behr How to website BEFORE you paint http://www.behr.com/consumer/how-to/interior for info on HOW to paint.
Use the foam rollers and buy several (like a pk of 6) of both 4" and 6". You can save a bit on the rollers by slipping them in a plastic bag or bit of plastic wrap of aluminum foil, wrap airtight, then toss in the fridge for a few hours to overnight or the freezer for longer (I've done the freezer for up to two days). Thaw completely before unwrapping and using again. Good for when you need to break for lunch or overnight.
The small roller pans are good for painting inside a manufactured RV (small and compact) as they fit on the counters, etc better (been there/done that with the Class C... even wallpapered the ceiling with pressed tin tile look anaglypta wallpaper).
Both Wooster and Purdy make a really short handled paint brush that is good for cutting in paint in tight spaces. Use a good paint brush such as the Wooster or Purdy or the ones listed as "BEST" on them. These are wash and keep brushes. Clean them out well after using.
PAINT SHEENS:
For an RV, Don't use "Flat" or "Eggshell". Use either "Satin" or "Semi-Gloss" on the walls, "Semi-Gloss" on the trim. The shinier the finish the easier it is to clean. I suggest you stick with a semigloss for everything.
I used a Semi-gloss (custom match pale yellow) on our partition walls and on the cabinets (Behr Embellished Blue 510D-4) both of which were unfinished wood (we used flush hollow core luan doors for our walls that are at a 90 degree angle to our long walls). Our long walls (the long sides of the bus) are covered in Ashely Oak click lock laminate floor that we used as wall paneling. The PVC window trim will be primed in a custom tinted med grey Kilz 2 then 2 coats of Martha Stewart Living "Silver Leaf" Metallic paint (brushed on)... just like the pressed tin look anaglypta wall paper on the ceiling (when I get that).
For outside, I will be repainting the rub rails and other "trim" bits with the Marquee exterior to see how well that sheds the dirt. If it does well, we will prime then roll the whole bus with a new coat of paint after we get to TX and on our own place.
DO NOT BUY SPEED-WALL or AMERICA's FINEST AS YOU ARE JUST THROWING YOUR MONEY AWAY.
I know nothing about Lowes paint except I didn't use the junk prior to 2011 before I started working at Home Depot. I used ACE brand when it was made by Pratt-Lambert. I know nothing about the new bunch. Prior to working at Home Depot, we remodeled houses for resell and I was the decor/paint "consultant".
When it comes to paint, prep is everything and the proper tools are a close second.
First you need to clean the walls with TSP or TSP Substitute. Follow the directions on the package. Mix up in a bucket of water, clean the walls with a sponge, rinse the TSP off with clean water and a sponge (rinse the sponge out frequently and change the water as it gets dirty). Let the walls dry completely.
Use Kilz 2 latex primer on walls. I suggest two coats but you will most likely ignore that and only use one coat because you think you are saving money.
Buy the Behr Ultra (the one with the primer). The reason for the two primers is that the Kilz is helping the paint adhere to the walls. The primer in the Behr Ultra covers stains and lays down a better finish. The reason I suggest the Behr Ultra over the Behr Premium is because it is thicker and just plain covers better, especially if you get a dark colour (get your primer tinted at the paint desk) or use a translucent colour like yellow and red. If you don't paint much, you will get a better finish with Behr Ultra. You will need TWO COATS. THREE if you are using a red or yellow. Tinting the primer a bit for DARK colours makes the paint go a tad farther. On Ultra, the first coat is the "primer" and looks bad, second coat is the coverage coat. If using red or yellow, you may need a third coat as it may not cover completely on the second coat. It's the colour not the paint.
Don't be stingy with the paint. Too many people will not roll on enough paint in a single application trying to stretch the paint coverage. A gallon of paint covers about 250 to 400 SF (I generally figure a gallon at 300 and do not factor in windows and doors). Multiply the length of your walls X wall height to get SF. Go to the Behr How to website BEFORE you paint http://www.behr.com/consumer/how-to/interior for info on HOW to paint.
Use the foam rollers and buy several (like a pk of 6) of both 4" and 6". You can save a bit on the rollers by slipping them in a plastic bag or bit of plastic wrap of aluminum foil, wrap airtight, then toss in the fridge for a few hours to overnight or the freezer for longer (I've done the freezer for up to two days). Thaw completely before unwrapping and using again. Good for when you need to break for lunch or overnight.
The small roller pans are good for painting inside a manufactured RV (small and compact) as they fit on the counters, etc better (been there/done that with the Class C... even wallpapered the ceiling with pressed tin tile look anaglypta wallpaper).
Both Wooster and Purdy make a really short handled paint brush that is good for cutting in paint in tight spaces. Use a good paint brush such as the Wooster or Purdy or the ones listed as "BEST" on them. These are wash and keep brushes. Clean them out well after using.
PAINT SHEENS:
For an RV, Don't use "Flat" or "Eggshell". Use either "Satin" or "Semi-Gloss" on the walls, "Semi-Gloss" on the trim. The shinier the finish the easier it is to clean. I suggest you stick with a semigloss for everything.
I used a Semi-gloss (custom match pale yellow) on our partition walls and on the cabinets (Behr Embellished Blue 510D-4) both of which were unfinished wood (we used flush hollow core luan doors for our walls that are at a 90 degree angle to our long walls). Our long walls (the long sides of the bus) are covered in Ashely Oak click lock laminate floor that we used as wall paneling. The PVC window trim will be primed in a custom tinted med grey Kilz 2 then 2 coats of Martha Stewart Living "Silver Leaf" Metallic paint (brushed on)... just like the pressed tin look anaglypta wall paper on the ceiling (when I get that).
For outside, I will be repainting the rub rails and other "trim" bits with the Marquee exterior to see how well that sheds the dirt. If it does well, we will prime then roll the whole bus with a new coat of paint after we get to TX and on our own place.
DO NOT BUY SPEED-WALL or AMERICA's FINEST AS YOU ARE JUST THROWING YOUR MONEY AWAY.
I know nothing about Lowes paint except I didn't use the junk prior to 2011 before I started working at Home Depot. I used ACE brand when it was made by Pratt-Lambert. I know nothing about the new bunch. Prior to working at Home Depot, we remodeled houses for resell and I was the decor/paint "consultant".
WheelEstate USA
Well-known member
Thanks Rose, great info.
Behr products are very good, but there are others that will equal their performance.
Usually, in an RV the wall spaces are smaller and windows are a greater % than if you're measuring most house walls. I'm just sayn'....don't over-order either
Behr products are very good, but there are others that will equal their performance.
Usually, in an RV the wall spaces are smaller and windows are a greater % than if you're measuring most house walls. I'm just sayn'....don't over-order either
compassrose
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bindi&us said:
For the cost, I would say that Behr is a better bargain. I may be a tad biased but I have used many other "high end" and "pro" brands as well. Saturday I had a pro painter come in and tell me that SW wanted $65 for a gallon of their paint. He told me they lost him for good. Said Behr Ultra stomped their paint. This was an old school painter too. All I know is based on the paints I have personally used. Personally I don't give a flying fig what brand paint you use. You can even use the crappy Speedwall. It's your money and your time. Why should anyone on this forum be any different that the customers I have to deal with daily. Except I don't have to listen to them complain that their bargain basement paint isn't doing what they wanted. Just remember to prep right and your paint will stick to the walls. Cut corners and you will have a crappy looking paint job that will not last.
And save the label. Especially if you get a custom match. This way if you need to get more paint of the same colour, the computers can pull up the original order (based on the bar code on the bottom of the label) and repeat the exact formula. Even increase or reduce. Another tip on costs. A quart of paint is almost half (and in a few cases, more) the cost of a gallon. FYI, there are 4 quarts in a gallon. I cannot tell you how many times every week I sell multiple quarts rather than the same customer just buying a whole gallon. Home Depot also sells empty quart sized cans so you can store any remaining paint you may have left over so you can use for touch ups. Just make sure you get the lid that goes with the can AND do not let the paint freeze.
Jamo
Member
Kellyh,
What are you painting? If its an RV or trailer with the "wallpaper" look, you shouldn't have any problem.
I painted the entire inside of my Toyota Dolphin class C with mostly Home Depot paint and a good Purdy brush. The job does take some prep but you don't have to go too nuts. I just used "409" and paper towels and more paper towels to dry the surface. Just make sure you remove any grease and oil on any of the surfaces. I put on two coats of "Kilz" primer and then a top coat of whatever color I wanted. In a class C or trailer there are a few surfaces that a 4 inch roller will work on but I found it easier to just use a brush for everything. There was less cleanup at the end of each day and a brush is a little easier to keep from dripping. Again, use a good brush! The 2 inch Purdy brush that I used cost about $15.00 but I'll probably have it for 15 years or so.
One last tip: you can actually get a faster and better job by removing any cabinet knobs, coat hooks, curtains and other assorted stuff including interior lights. That way you don't have to worry about cutting around them or masking them off. When it comes to the lights, just undo their mounting screws and let them hang down by their wires while you paint in that area. Most RV lights are light enough that their wires will support them while the paint dries. Just don't drive off with the lights like that!
Jamo
What are you painting? If its an RV or trailer with the "wallpaper" look, you shouldn't have any problem.
I painted the entire inside of my Toyota Dolphin class C with mostly Home Depot paint and a good Purdy brush. The job does take some prep but you don't have to go too nuts. I just used "409" and paper towels and more paper towels to dry the surface. Just make sure you remove any grease and oil on any of the surfaces. I put on two coats of "Kilz" primer and then a top coat of whatever color I wanted. In a class C or trailer there are a few surfaces that a 4 inch roller will work on but I found it easier to just use a brush for everything. There was less cleanup at the end of each day and a brush is a little easier to keep from dripping. Again, use a good brush! The 2 inch Purdy brush that I used cost about $15.00 but I'll probably have it for 15 years or so.
One last tip: you can actually get a faster and better job by removing any cabinet knobs, coat hooks, curtains and other assorted stuff including interior lights. That way you don't have to worry about cutting around them or masking them off. When it comes to the lights, just undo their mounting screws and let them hang down by their wires while you paint in that area. Most RV lights are light enough that their wires will support them while the paint dries. Just don't drive off with the lights like that!
Jamo
WheelEstate USA
Well-known member
Any cleaner you use should be rinsed with clean sponge and fresh water.
Instead of the sponging on and off, if the flooring permits, I use a bug sprayer. If it doesn't I'll still usually spray just much lighter, so that the surface is evenly damp with clean solution before starting the tedious wipe on and wipe off.
First spray is bleach+warm water to kill anything
second is TSP+warm water for degreasing and surface prep(I use a car wash brush to scrub instead of a sponge).
Scuff sand the surface while wet to knock off any shine, and rinse with a final spray down with warm water.
A black bug sprayer also makes a great solar heated shower if kept clean inside.
EDIT: I also prefer to use HD paints. I have commercial accounts with other places, but unless it's something that HD won't carry, I don't bother(the good, heavy on the VOCs kind of paints/varnishes that are not for home use). HD paint costs me more, but takes less fussing and works better.
I disagree about semi-gloss, except maybe for trim. I hate the reflections and it's much more likely to show surface flaws.
Satin is my favorite balance of clean-ability and aesthetically pleasing, eggshell if it's not a hard use area(bathroom, vehicle etc).
First spray is bleach+warm water to kill anything
second is TSP+warm water for degreasing and surface prep(I use a car wash brush to scrub instead of a sponge).
Scuff sand the surface while wet to knock off any shine, and rinse with a final spray down with warm water.
A black bug sprayer also makes a great solar heated shower if kept clean inside
.EDIT: I also prefer to use HD paints. I have commercial accounts with other places, but unless it's something that HD won't carry, I don't bother(the good, heavy on the VOCs kind of paints/varnishes that are not for home use). HD paint costs me more, but takes less fussing and works better.
I disagree about semi-gloss, except maybe for trim. I hate the reflections and it's much more likely to show surface flaws.
Satin is my favorite balance of clean-ability and aesthetically pleasing, eggshell if it's not a hard use area(bathroom, vehicle etc).
Thanks for all the info. I plan to do the painting before we put up the new blinds and curtains. And the whole camper will need scrubbed down because of sitting for so long. It won't be hard to prime & paint because most all the walls have oak wood 1/2 way up but I will take old English to all the wood just to add some more shine. I can't wait for the other repairs to get done so I can get started. Thanks everyone.
Zil
Well-known member
You will be amazed by the crud build up on the walls. If you do any washing I recommend Murphy Oil Soap on the wood paneling. Then use your polish.
