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Scott3569

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Hello guys, as you can see in the photo, I have all of the components minus the battery and solar panel

the space I have to mount things is not that large. 
Aprox 14"L and 9"H

So, I am wondering of maybe  I could also mount a positive and negative Buss bar. 

If I can do the above

Then I could run the Isolator and Solar controller right here on this panel.. and only have the two cables from the isolator to the battery 
If that makes since..
 

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Then shorter the wiring runs when dealing with DC current the better. Not really sure what you are asking.
 
bullfrog said:
Then shorter the wiring runs when dealing with DC current the better. Not really sure what you are asking.
OK let me try explaining a different way.

Everything, on this board the Isolator, the charge controller, and maybe a fuse box.. 

All of these need to be connected to the house battery... 

So, in image #1 each component would need to be to be connected to the battery.

In image #2
 I could connect everything at the positive bar and the negative bar. then only have 1 positive and 1 negative cable running to the battery
 

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Correct that is the purpose of the bus bars and prevents "stacking" terminals" which can result in problems.
 
Di I need a separate terminal in the buss bar for each component? I am guessing so since you mentioned it's a bad idea to stack terminals
 
Yes use buss bars.
Stacking 2 wires on the same post is no problem. I would not stack more than 2 if any were high draw devices, In fact it would be best if high draw devices had there own stud.

Highdesertranger
 
You have a few mistakes on your diagram and not all is labeled. It is easier for me to think in circuits or systems so #1 the house battery should have a fuse on the positive battery post which should be connected by a wire to the positive bus bar. The negative post of the house battery should be connected by a wire to the negative bus bar. #2 the starter battery should have a fuse at the positive post and a wire to the positive input of the isolator and depending on the isolator an ignition circuit wire (power with the key on) possibly to make the circuit for power to go through the isolator to a positive output terminal and a wire from there to the positive bus bar. Again depending on the isolator the negative bus bar should attach to a good starter battery ground as most vehicles use the frame or unibody for negative ground or you can run a wire from the negative bus bar to the negative starter battery post. #3 the fuse block positive terminal wired to the positive bus bar and the negative fuse block terminal wired to the negative bus bar. #4 the positive output terminal (should be labeled) of the charge controller wired to a fuse (there is some debate here on the size of fuse to use because if it blows your controller could be damaged) and then to the positive bus bar and the negative output terminal (should be labeled) to the negative bus bar. Once the controller is connected to the battery set it for AGM batteries. #5 cover the panel or shade it as a precaution install a fuse ( again a point of debate depending on the size of your wiring and system) and connect the positive panel wire to the positive panel input terminal of your controller and your negative panel wire to the negative panel input terminal of the controller. Check the voltage of the house battery, uncover the solar panel and see if you get increase in voltage in full sun. I am an old man and make many mistakes so double check everything I have written with another source, but to the best of my knowledge this is the way I would do it. Remember fuses protect the wiring and should be as close to the source of power as possible it is up to the individual to build a system they feel in their judgment is safe. I know of no laws or regulations when it comes to installing solar on a vehicle.
 

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