I run a 32' class A with HUGE rear overhang.
The biggest issue is trailer towing weight.
The further the ball is away from the rear tires, the more force the trailer puts on the tow vehicle.
I tow a 22' car trailer with a station wagon and toolbox/welder on it...and it is no lightweight.
(There is an entire subframe built underneath that did NOT come with the RV, however. This would be a 800-1200 price if you required it done.)
To flat tow a small car or truck, you would not need this. I wanted to be able to support 1200 pounds of tongue weight in stride...and I come from the "mosquitoes are best killed with an AR-15 or a bulldozer" school of thought. Strong is better. Big *&^%'s small. (Peace be on Alfie Solomons...
)
Most larger RV's have the overhang. While I agree with FK's general assessment, you are not going to find them with the axles right at the rear. (They would need a parking lot to turn around in.)
You don't see them wrecked because of the overhang, either.
A truck is a TRUCK. Not a Mustang GT.
You drive as its brakes, suspension and handling dictate and know your limits.
The biggest issue people not familiar with trucks have is entering a corner too fast and braking on the mountains.
Did someone say braking on mountains??
The braking part is SOO easy to remedy.
This easy: basically, you set two speeds for yourself.
Lets say 45 on the low end, 60 on the top end. Let others pass you and don't get "pushed" by an a$$holic driver.
At the very top of the hill, you should be doing the 45MPH speed.
Foot OFF the throttle, allow it to roll up to set brake speed (60 in this case) and HIT the brakes down to 45.
(I don't mean to throw all your dishes and pets into the windshield...but HIT them. Don't "tinkerbell" them. This should take as close to 1.5 seconds as you can comfortably deal with. The more time on the brakes, the hotter they get.)
Let off. (The brakes are now cooling themselves, getting ready for the cycle to repeat.)
Roll back up to set brake speed and HIT the brakes again down to 45. (Conan The Barbarian, not Tinkerbell)
Let off again.
If it takes the speed back up to the 60 mark too quick, you need to be starting the hill slower and lowering your downhill speed.
Once or twice doing this will communicate your specific vehicles comfort zone.
In old stuff with 3 speeds, you leave it in D, or even slow down enough to use "2" on the downhill. (KNOW your RPMS if doing this. Many are unable to deal with more than 35-40MPH in "2."
In the OD equipped vehicles, pulling it into "3" or "D" helps. The engine can rev a little and hold you some.
If your engine, pulled out of OD holds you @ that 45 or even 55 speed all the way down...GREAT! You never had to touch the brakes. They are stone cold and capable of 100% of their stopping power at the bottom.
As you leave the "converted van" realm, this has to be on your mind more and more.
Knowing how to deal with it will keep you safer.
If you ever find yourself without brakes, TAKE THE STONE RAMP.
People get "buck fever" at that moment of truth.
Those stone runaway ramps are there to save your life.
RV's use them. Legally. Some people pass them and wreck, thinking they are only for big trucks.
Screw the vehicle damage, save your skin. If that pedal went to the floor, that stone ramp is your BEST friend.
Having this mindset BEFORE you have a problem can help avoid that moment of unsure-pause-in-action.
Identify the run away ramps ahead of time...make damned sure you are in that right lane on downgrades.
Next time you are on a big hill, watch the brake lights.
You will see loaded trucks braking much like what I described.
You will smell the burning pads/shoes of those who do not use this method.
Those are the idiots who kill people.
