NEWBIE: Trans cooler line replacement

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cinemaphonic

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Hey guys,

I have a 96 dodge ram van and the passenger side trans line started leaking (not sure if it is return or supply).

Can you guys point me towards any repair videos or links or explain how I can do this?

I tried to post on a dodge forum but no one really answered the question. One guy seems to think I need to replace the entire line assembly, while another seems to think I can just replace the line. 

I found this video, but I'm unsure if it applies to me. I'm really new to doing mechanical repairs, but I'm learning.

I'm attaching a couple of pictures for reference. Thank you in advance.
 

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Diagnoses over the Internet is difficult.
You can replace the line. Try NAPA auto parts. Show him the transmission cooler line. He will get the correct part for you. I really want to be more helpful but again, Diagnoses is difficult over the internet.
 
Just looking at the fittings seems to be a pressure line, but then again, what do I know.  Haven't worked on one since they were just a rubber hose held on with hose clamps.

I am with VonBrown on this.  Simplest is just to replace it. It appears to be leaking at the crimp.  I don't think those can be fixed, just replaced.
 
B and C said:
Just looking at the fittings seems to be a pressure line, but then again, what do I know.  Haven't worked on one since they were just a rubber hose held on with hose clamps.

I am with VonBrown on this.  Simplest is just to replace it. It appears to be leaking at the crimp.  I don't think those can be fixed, just replaced.

Thank you, and thank you VonBrown.

Do you mean I should replace the entire assembly?
 
cinemaphonic said:
Thank you, and thank you VonBrown.

Do you mean I should replace the entire assembly?

Fitting on each end of a short piece of hose.  

If you have to ask, you might as well find a mechanic. 

Those are not easy to take apart, and you could cause a lot of damage if you do it wrong.
 
GotSmart said:
If you have to ask, you might as well find a mechanic. 

Those are not easy to take apart, and you could cause a lot of damage if you do it wrong.

Think rounded off hex fittings.  Once they are rounded off, the price skyrockets for getting them replaced.  They take a special box wrench with a slot cut in it to get over the tubing.  They are called tubing wrenches.

I am with Got Smart, if you don't know what you are doing (it looks simple but isn't without the correct wrenches), hire it out and you will be ahead in the long run.  Pay me now or pay me later as the saying goes.
 
if it's leaking at the crimps and it appears to be, you just need to replace that short rubber hose. it should be available at your local parts store. but like what's been mentioned you need to know how to do it. it really is simple but you need the knowhow and the tools. highdesertranger
 
The cost of the proper tools are close to the cost of having someone with a lift do the repair.
 
B and C said:
Think rounded off hex fittings.  Once they are rounded off, the price skyrockets for getting them replaced.  They take a special box wrench with a slot cut in it to get over the tubing.  They are called tubing wrenches.

I am with Got Smart, if you don't know what you are doing (it looks simple but isn't without the correct wrenches), hire it out and you will be ahead in the long run.  Pay me now or pay me later as the saying goes.

.....or line wrenches or flair nut wrenches....  :p
 
but if you buy the tools next time you will have them and not have to buy. highdesertranger
 
If you decide to buy the wrenches, get somebody experienced to supervise the first time since you don't seem to have much experience working on vehicles.
 
B and C said:
If you decide to buy the wrenches, get somebody experienced to supervise the first time since you don't seem to have much experience working on vehicles.

X10!

Those lines can be a real beast to get apart.   :mad:

Once that high pressure line is replaced, you should not have to do it again.  DO NOT buy the cheapest hoses out there.
 
GotSmart said:
X10!

Those lines can be a real beast to get apart.   :mad:

Once that high pressure line is replaced, you should not have to do it again.  DO NOT buy the cheapest hoses out there.

this guy makes it seem really easy, or does this method not apply to me?

 
cinemaphonic said:
this guy makes it seem really easy, or does this method not apply to me?



After 20 years some fittings seem welded on.  

Just saying~~~
 
I had a friend who owned an Eagle Vision (which is about the same as the Dodge Intrepid) that had this problem in the 90's. 

The lines were similar to the OP's photos.  They leaked after awhile.  New OEM's would do the same after awhile
most likely so what I did was this.

I got a small plumbers tubing cutter and cut the metal line as close to the rubber as I could.  Then I had two brass compression fittings where I installed and tightened one end of each of them to the lines to the transmission.   I had purchased some short brake line and cut them in 3 1/2 pieces with the cutter and inserted them into the brass compression couplings and tightened them. 

Next the rubber lines were cut as close to the crimped ferrule as I could.  Next, stuck the brake line nipples into the rubber hoses and used a couple of aircraft clamps to tighten down on the hoses.  (actually I used two clamps on each hose) 

Never had any more leaking. 

The cutter is about 1 1/2 by 1 1/2

mini-tube-cutter-250x250.jpg


The brass connector couplings

62.jpg


small stainless steel aircraft clamps

China_wholesale_wire_rope_fasteners_c_clamps.jpg



short piece of straight brake line the same size as the transmission line to cut extensions from (nipples)
Just using the straight piece of tubing and discarding the flared ends and threaded nut fastening.

orly_251550.jpg



I used wadded up paper to plug the Transmission lines once they were cut and likewise the lines to the radiator.  The transmission lines were cleaned well with solvent. 

Then the short nipples were fastened tight into the brass compression fitting and the nipple plugged with paper.   Next the paper plug was pulled out of the transmission line and the fitting set in place and tightened
securely.  The same for both lines.   The rubber line was cut back of the ferrule and the aircraft clamps slid on after the ferrule was removed. The paper plug pulled out of the nipple and the nipple inserted. Then the clamps tightened tight.

On this particular Car there was a flat piece of metal tack welded to the two metal lines with a hole in the center so a bolt could hold it to the frame.  I removed the bolt and cut the strap in half through the bolt hole so I could have enough room to use the small cutter.  Later when the fittings were in place I put the bolt with a lock washer in place and fit the lines snug to the bolt and frame and tightened it good and tight. Then used a heavy nylon zip tie to go around the frame member to safety secure it should it vibrate lose. Never gave any problems.

All of the hardware cost less than $6 bucks.  The lines then were like about $40 dollars.  I lost about a quart of
ATF and that stuff was like close to $4 a quart if I remember correctly.  Had she taken it to the shop they would have nailed her for well over $100 dollars.   And within a couple years or so they would have been leaking again and her having someone pour $4 dollar a quart Transmission Fluid in it once a month.

Hope this is helpful for any of the Dodge/Chrysler product owners.

How did I come up with this idea for the repair ?  By talking to an old mechanic that worked fixing up older cars for used car lots.
 

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