new carpet install/ which insulation under it?

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05kas05

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here are a few pics of the inside of my van the original carpet was faded dirty and soaked with antifreeze from a leaky heater core. i just pulled the old carpet and want to install some insulation under it while i have it out.so my question is what insulation should i use? also would you recommend filling in the gaps between the ribs?
my original plan was to lay down a 1/2" layer of that pink foam board you find at home depot then cover that and any exposed metal with reflectix then lay my carpet down with a little spray adhesive on top of that. any other ideas or suggestions would be great also if you might know a link to a how to video or a thread that already been over this please let me know.
 
The pink foam is pretty firm, but in the living area, I think I'd want some 1/4 ply over it and carpet pad .
Up front I think I'd wanna go with a standard underlining similar to original so my heels won't dent foam and don't have to cut in ply pieces.

Maybe someone else has some better ideas.


Check out this thread....
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Insulating-the-floor

Post # 18 is interesting.



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Here is what I am doing.

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Starting-the-build

I would first tape over the holes. First sand and paint the underside to keep rust from starting. Then tape both sides. Then came the vapor barrier, and then wood. On the wood will be foam padding, and then carpet. You can just ignore the ridges.

Overkill? Perhaps, but I have the time and would rather enjoy a quiet ride and minimal heat loss/gain through the floor.
 
When I lived in Alaska I found a source of military surplus foam sleeping pads for $5 each. I bought enough to cover my whole floor then put carpet over it.

If you're not familiar with it, back in the 70s when backpacking was becoming a huge craze we all used closed cell foam pads to sleep on. It has a very high R-value--you can easily sit or sleep on snow or a glacier and it won't melt underneath you. But it isn't very comfortable so when the self-inflating pads came out, they took over and everyone used them instead. You can still buy them at Walmart or any sporting goods store for about $10 each. If you can afford it, they work extremely well. Very warm and soft.
Bob
 
after looking around and reading several threads i think I'm going to put down two layers of relectix and then install regular carpet padding on top then some low pile carpet to finish it off.

do you guys see or know of anything else i should be aware of before doing this. is there
anything that needs to be addressed as far as heat from the motor or exhaust?
here is a couple of pics from the insulation that was there the white one was in the rear and the black rubber type one with the fibers was around the motor/front floor board.
 
akrvbob said:
When I lived in Alaska I found a source of military surplus foam sleeping pads for $5 each. I bought enough to cover my whole floor then put carpet over it.

If you're not familiar with it, back in the 70s when backpacking was becoming a huge craze we all used closed cell foam pads to sleep on. It has a very high R-value--you can easily sit or sleep on snow or a glacier and it won't melt underneath you. But it isn't very comfortable so when the self-inflating pads came out, they took over and everyone used them instead. You can still buy them at Walmart or any sporting goods store for about $10 each. If you can afford it, they work extremely well. Very warm and soft.
Bob

when you did this did you add any other protection in the high heat areas such as the converter or motor? i would not see it getting hot enough to catch fire but its better to be safe than sorry so i just want to be sure? thanks for the info and i know exactly what your talking about as i used a closed cell foam pad when i first started camping but like you said i have since switched to a big agnes air mattress


bindi&us said:
The pink foam is pretty firm, but in the living area, I think I'd want some 1/4 ply over it and carpet pad .
Up front I think I'd wanna go with a standard underlining similar to original so my heels won't dent foam and don't have to cut in ply pieces.

Maybe someone else has some better ideas.


Check out this thread....
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Insulating-the-floor

Post # 18 is interesting.
thanks for the link to that post not sure how i missed that one it looks to me as they laid down the reflectix and then a regular carpet pad then some carpet. i am thinking of just doing it this way. also your right i didn't think of the foam getting dented and such that would be a bummer to have a lumpy floor that doesn't bounce back.



`

 
I was in a box van and I only did the box which had no heat areas at all under it. So I can't really say about high-heat areas. But I would use it everywhere else for sure.

About Reflectix: it must have an air space around it to work. If it doesn't have an air space it has an R value of 1.1. This is from their website:

If You Install 2 Layers of a Reflective Insulation, Does the R-value Double?
With multiple layers of product and airspaces between each layer, enhanced performance will be gained. If the product is simply “doubled” (with no air space between the layers), a very minimal benefit is obtained (R-1.1 (per layer) for the Reflective/Double Bubble product).


You won't have any air around it so it will be R 1.1 which is very low for how expensive it is. Doubling it will make it 2.2. Plus, I think it might crush and pop under the weight reducing the R value even further.
Bob
 
Unless your floorboards are showing any heat discolorations, there should not be any problems. My van has shields where the old single pipe system went. The new cherry bomb duels are just hanging under the frame, 12 inches from the floor boards. Plenty of room to dissipate the heat.
 
oops here are some pics of the original insulation that was in there
not sure it has much r value either but i don't really know i was mainly just using the reflectix to fill in the ribs and uneven surfaces in the van.
then add the carpet padding and carpet for the insulation
 
I see rust. .

At the least, wire brush, and use Rustoleum rust conversion paint.

There is a reason I will have 4 different layers down with the carpet and padding. Total cost when completed, about $150 to $200 for the floor. It will be extremely noise resistant, and with the thick padding, soft.

With the padding, the uneven surface will not be noticed at all. If you use the thickest padding possible, you will be doing good. I prefer the wood down because of the way I am attaching things for the dividers and built in battery box. With tapping screws through the wood and metal. It will not go anywhere!
 
ok so no reflectix on the floor. then i guess i will just find a thicker carpet pad and glue it straight to the floor and put the carpet on top I'm sure it will be insulated enough. i don't have the cash to do a plywood sub floor with foam or what not under it at this point
but i had to get this wet carpet out it was stinking pretty bad. i am going to go look at home depot and lowes again tomorrow and see what other insulation materials might work besides reflectix. and i will be sure to clean all the rusted areas and repaint prior to installing the carpet and insulation that is for sure.
 
Treat the rust as good as you can. You might not be able to go all out like I did, but Rust Converter paint at the least. You just need to glue the padding down in spots. The carpet in my Dodge was stapled to the wood underlayment. 3/8 ply is not that expensive. You will need 2 sheets. Wood, tapping screws, padding, and carpet. Staple gun.

You might be able to find the carpet and padding on Craigslist.
 
if you have a hot spot on the floor from the van exhaust, you have an exhaust problem. Get the exhaust fixed.
 
The exhaust is fine there are no indications of a hot spot on the floor itself I was just
asking if there needed to be some kind of insulation/ heat barrier between the metal floor and the carpet padding.

My plan as of now is to remove the old glue clean the floor sand seal and paint all the holes/ rust spots and then clean the floor again. Then i will buy some regular carpet padding about 3/4 of an inch or better lay it down and glue it in where needed and install the carpet on top of that.
 
Gotsmart,
if I use that ultratouch radiant barrier could I just lay it foil side down/up I'm assuming the foil goes down with a little glue here and there to hold it on to the floor of the van and then install my carpet on to that. I'm sure it's better than the stuff from the factory . Do you think it's thick enough to fill in the ribs and other imperfections on the floor . Do you know of any problems doing it this way .
 
Do you have any metal or foil tape? That is what I used. It is holding great. I would also put a layer of padding down because it will be all that is between you and the cold of winter. As a soundproofing material, you will love the improvement when driving down the road. Look at my link to see how I got one roll to do the whole place. With a little left over. $60 and well worth it. Since yours is a little longer, you should come out with no scraps. The metal tape helped put the scraps together to fill in behind the wheel wells. Cover the holes with the tape first, (Both sides after cleaning and priming.) then put the barrier foil side down.
 
I used reflectix foil up, 2 pieces of ply (13bucks each) and self tap screws. Glue and carpet (don't use tiles...mistake on my part). My floor is freezing...so i think you need something more than reflectix down there! Lol
 
bob's right about the closed cell foam. i also used these when i started bacpaking(late 60's) and can attest you can lay them on snow and sleep on them. i have also used it in a vehicle under the carpet and on the interior firewall it works really well. it doesn't absorb water, another plus, regular carpet foam absorbs like a sponge. it also gives you some cushion. imho it is the best insulation for under your carpet. highdesertranger
 

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