Need to know the advantages and disadvantages of owning, maintaining, and repair costs of 1 ton vans compared with 3/4

[tink]

Does anyone know how much more brake repairs cost on a 1 ton verses a 3/4 ton on a percentage basis? 10% to 20% more, or more than that?<br /><br />Do they both use the same size tires?

<br /><br />Typically yes, 3/4 and 1 ton will both use at least a 16 inch tire with a higher load rating than 1/2 tons. Front brake costs should be nearly the same, it is going to be a disc brake setup and easy to replace. the kicker will come in on the rear axle and there are alot of&nbsp;variables. Ideally will be a full float axle with disc brakes, easiest to maintain and strongest.&nbsp;<br />If you get a van with rear drum brakes (most out there) a semi float axle will have "outboard" drums, this means easy to remove.<br />Some of the older heavy duty vans will have drum brakes with "inboard" brake drums. Which means the axle shaft must be pulled out in order to remove the drum. Sucks for brake jobs.<br /><br />parts are gonna be about the same cost either way, the difference will be in labor costs.

 

[magentawave]

I've noticed while searching for 3/4 and 1 ton vans that the 1 tons always have large V8's whereas many of the 3/4 tons come with small blocks and even 6's in the Chevys. I don't want a big block engine and don't need the extra load carrying capacity of the 1 ton so I'm hoping to find what I need in a 3/4 ton.

 

[akrvbob]

Bear in mind that cargo vans were probably used commercially while most conversion or window vans were not. Very often commercial vans are used very hard and then when it comes time to get rid of them, they stop doing maintenance. The exception is fleet leased vehicles, they are generally maintained very well, but still used hard by people who don't care about them.<br /><br />The key is to buy a van with the fewest possible number of miles and get it checked out by a mechanic before you buy it. When I bought my F150, I was sure I wanted a 3/4 ton, so I test drove 4 of them that looked and ran good. I took them all to a mechanic and he said they were all rode hard and put away wet. They were contractors trucks and had beaten to death. Each one needed 1000s of dollars worth of work right away. Then I found my F150 1/2 ton, and he said it was perfect. I got 70,000 totally trouble free miles out of that truck, then at 200,000 it started to need work, but that seemed okay to me. I still have it toady with 245,000 miles on it. <br /><br />My point is that you are buying a specific vehicle, not a class of vehicle. A good mechanic can tell you a huge amount with just a basic inspection. Buy the van your mechanic likes, not the one that theoretically will be cheaper to&nbsp; repair.<br /><br />I am now blogging, follow me at: http://cheaprvlivingblog.com/ Bob

 

[magentawave]

Bob,<br /><br />I've had a few E150's in the past and they were fine for my needs at the time, but I really think for the weight I'll be carrying that I'll be needing a 3/4 ton this time around. I wonder if the newer E150's are more heavy duty than the older ones?<br /><br />Steve

 

[tink]

If I can chime in here, the weight capacity will be determined by your tires and springs and the axle bearings, the tires can be upgraded to handle way more than the van should haul, same with helper springs and add on airbags etc. the down fall is in axle bearing wear, and axle housing&nbsp;strength. unless you intend to haul a&nbsp;ridiculous&nbsp;amount of weight you will probably be fine with a 8 or 10 ply tire and a booster (helper) spring to level it out. just keep an eye out for axle seal leakage it is the first sign of&nbsp;eminent&nbsp;bearing failure.&nbsp;<br /><br />on a side not about the size of engine between types of vans, just because you have a smaller engine&nbsp;doesn't&nbsp;mean it will get better fuel economy, a small engine working harder to do a job will burn more gas than a bigger engine that&nbsp;don't&nbsp;have to struggle to to the same job.<br />food for thought.

 

[akrvbob]

Steve, if everything else is equal (you took a 1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton to a mechanic and he said they were all great, buy them) in the long run you are better off with a van that laughs at your load, then struggles under it. <br /><br />My 93 F150 was always 1000 lbs over gross weight, a 3/4 ton would have been just right and 1 ton would have laughed at it. I should have bought a 1 ton, it would have laughed at the load! In the long run it would have been much less trouble. As soon a the F150 hit 200,000 miles I started to have overloading breakdowns. <br /><br />If you are going to load it heavy, I think you will want at least a 3/4 ton and probably a 1 ton. I also agree with Twink, if you are going to load heavy get a bigger engine. Much better in the long run. Bob<br /><br />Follow me at http://cheaprvlivingblog.com/

 

[magentawave]

blkjak - Nice! I'm looking for one just like yours with hinged side doors. Was that a former FEDEX van?<br /><br />akrvbob - I had E150's when I was in the construction business. My last one had Helwig Load Adjusters in the back which helped a lot, but you are right that the suspensions get tired as the miles stack up which is why I want a 3/4 ton this time.

 

[magentawave]

I've had both sliding side doors and hinged side doors and the one thing I like about the hinged side doors is that I can have a little more privacy from the side with the doors open. Hmmm, I may have to re-evaluate because I didn't think about the top of the hinged doors conflicting with an awning though. Would the top of the opened hinged doors rub against the awning thus cause unnecessary wear?

 

[dragonflyinthesky]

<span style="color: #0000ff;">I didn't think about the top of the hinged doors conflicting with an awning though.</span><br />On horse trailers, a little roller wheel is included to go on your door so no damage is done to the canvas.