Need to know the advantages and disadvantages of owning, maintaining, and repair costs of 1 ton vans compared with 3/4

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magentawave

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I have some questions about the differences and advantages and disadvantages between full size US made Chevy, Ford, Dodge 1 ton vans compared with the exact same vehicle with a 3/4 ton rating please.<br /><br />Again, lets assume each van is as identical as possible except for whatever is included in the different rating and that I will NOT be towing anything.<br /><br />1) Do 1 ton vans cost more to own, maintain and repair compared to 3/4 ton vans? I'm talking about stuff like gas consumption, brake repairs, tires (wear, removal, cost of new tires, balancing, etc.), and anything else that could effect the cost of ownership between these two.<br /><br />2) If a 3/4 ton van is more than adequate to handle the weight of my junk, is there any reason at all for me to choose a 1 ton van instead over a 3/4 ton van?<br /><br />3) I heard many years ago that GMC's cost more to repair than Chevys even though they seem identical. Does anyone know if that is true?<br /><br />Thank you!<br /><br /><br />
 
Most of the parts are identical/interchangeable . Having said that , the chevy /gmc "G-20" series with 5 lug rims was really a 1/2 ton made slightly beefier. A 3/4 ton is a good compromise between size, weight, and mileage. I have heard of people getting high teens and into the low 20's with late model half tons, my 2000 one ton gmc bus gets 13.5 mpg on the highway @ 62 mph. 8-10 in town or
towing, or in the mountains.
My 99 dodge 3/4 ton got 13 mpg with the magnum 360 (5.9 liter) engine.
 
Off the top of my head I would say the 1 ton, with the heaver&nbsp;suspension, would weigh more than the 3/4 would. <br /><br />That would translate into lower&nbsp;fuel&nbsp;efficiently, more wear on the tires, brakes, motor, transmission, etc etc.&nbsp;<br /><br />Probably not a whole lot but some. Also the ride on the one ton will be stiffer.
 
Ywave- usually. The g-20 and the 80's chevy pickup " heavy half", were 5 lug, but sold as a heavy half ton or light duty 3/4 ton. There may be others, the sprinter, I believe runs 5 lug even on thier duallie. Mabye others? But for American made from 80 ish on, it's a good rule of thumb.
 
with a GM a 1/2 ton will likely have a 10 bolt light duty rear, 3/4 ton will likely have a c clip 14 bolt rear that is interchangeable and available with 5,6, and 8 lug. A 1 ton will have either the c clip 14 bolt or a full float 14 bolt which is a super heavy duty rear, and only available in 8 lug from the factory.<br />Ford will have a 8.8 rear in its half tons and either a dana 60 in older models or a sterling 10.25 in later models, both of which are great rears. Even the 8.8 is a damn good rear and spare parts are everywhere.<br />Chrysler should be a 8.25 in a 1/2 ton and either a dana 60 or an AAM 9.25 for the 3/4 and 1 tons. <br />All of the axles listed are good but the 10 bolt in 1/2 ton GM's is by far the weakest of the lot with only a 7.5 inch ring gear. <br />The other differences between 3/4 and 1 ton platforms will be things like Towing packages, aux oil coolers, larger charging and cooling systems, and of course a higher spring rate. <br />Personally unless the money is alot different there is no good reason not to go with a 1 ton van, just be aware that untill it has a substantial load over the rear axle it will ride more like a covered wagon than a automobile.<br /><br />Now having typed all of that I have a E150 with the 8.8 which is a 1/2 ton van but I have plans to convert to 4X4 at a point in the future at which time it will get a 10.25 rear and dana 60 front axle. :).
 
Thats what I thought too!<br /><br /><br />
É£-wave said:
dumb question... anything with more than 5 lugs is always more than 1/2 ton right?<img src="../images/boards/smilies/confused.gif" alt="" align="absmiddle" border="0" />
 
The main advantage of a one ton is increased cargo capacity (cargo in the van - not trailer weight). &nbsp;Figure out howm much weight you're going to carry, then choose appropriately. Better too heavy a truck than too light when when determine cargo capacity, but the heavier the unit the lower the mileage, so you don't want to over do it.
 
The main advantage of a one ton is increased cargo capacity (cargo in the van - not trailer weight). &nbsp;Figure out howm much weight you're going to carry, then choose appropriately. Better too heavy a truck than too light when when determine cargo capacity, but the heavier the unit the lower the mileage, so you don't want to over do it.
 
1 ton rides like a brick. No one needs 1 ton for anything but commercial uses.

1/2 ton is enough for almost everyone.
 
I'm sure I won't have any use for a 1 ton based on the stuff I'll be carrying. The thing is that in my quest for the right van I might find one that fits everything I want (full size cargo van, extended bed, clean, runs good, small block V8, preferably white)...except it might be a 1 ton. So I was just trying to get a feel for how much more expensive it might be over the long run to own a 1 ton over a 3/4 ton.<br /><br />P.S. I'm seeing lots of killer deals on Craigslist for nice clean window vans with extended beds but I just don't want all those darn windows!&nbsp;<img src="../images/boards/smilies/frown.gif" alt="" align="absmiddle" border="0" />
 
Planetmoon said:
You are right about the windows. They get in the way of good interior design with less work. Also it is illegal to cover them up anyway while vehicle being driven. In many States the van would not pass inspection with them covered up. One like in blkjak's photo is what a guy wants, not even any back windows. I've seen a few around.
I dont know of any states that it's illegal to cover over your windows. Certantly you cant cover the windshield and drivers side and passengers front windows. But other than that, if you have 2 outside mirriors on the doors, you could brick wall the side and rear windows if you choose. ALWAYS check with your local DMV on these matters, though.
Les
 
TO cant think of any reason a one ton would be more expensive to maintain than a 3/4 ton - only the weight difference from the heavier suspension, which is the big difference between the two. &nbsp;Heavier suspension can handle heavier weight.
 
I have a GMC G20 3/4 ton class B van camper and I wish it was a G30 1 ton. I freelance mechanic on the side so the weight of my tools and equipment adds up. Currently looking at a G30 parts van to swap the 1 ton parts over to mine. If I were starting from scratch I would surely go with a G30 or E350.
 
You are only talking the suspension aspects of the van... Other wise the repairs will be the same...
 
Thank you for everyones feedback!<br /><br />Okay, the consensus seems to be that vans that 1 ton <span style="text-decoration: underline;">suspensions</span> don't cost anymore to own than vans with 3/4 ton suspensions.
 
Planetmoon said:
Hi Les,&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;California is one for sure. It is on their ca.gov website in motor vehicles. I would not be surprised to find more. The technical to it is "no windows shall be covered up with any material while being driven". Then they list about every material known to man. Tint laws are for tint only.
Planet moon, I was going to send this to you privatly, but wasn't able too. I'm NOT AT ALL an argumentative guy that always has to be right. Ive ( occasionally :0p~~~~) made some mistakes, so it is in that spirit that I decided to find out for myself.
 I lived most of my life in Ny, which has some of the toughest inspection laws there are. A far cry from where I am now in Alabama, where the complete inspection consisted of looking at the VIN through the windshield to make sure it matched my paperwork. That's it, ever, as long as I own the vehicle.
I so hate to doubt someone, but i had to look for myself. Unless i completely misunderstand,
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc26708.htm
Section A-4, says that side windows to the rear of the driver do not apply.
Section A-8, says that if you have rear vision with outside mirrors, rear windows do not apply.
Section a-13 1-5 deal with acceptable window tint.where, when, what is too dark, etc. 

Hope it helps someone!
 
If that was the truth then les you should had posted me a message on here for me to turn on my messenger. I have the sand to say I am wrong and you are right. And I know you would rather have public display on the world wide internet that you are right to make yourself look and feel better, it is okay. People love to use the quote tool on here but I never have.
 
I posted it not for any sense of "I'm right, your wrong". Magentawave asked about vans, and specifically about window vans. I believe she said there were " killer deals on window vans" , so I posted information on how to deal with windows. I drive a Bus, nothin BUT windows! Really, that's all. I've been on this forum since it began, and your welcome to check back through my posts for animosity or " nah-nah-nah nah" attitude. When I was a kid, we had an encylopedia set that was like , 30 volumes. My parents taught me if I didn't know something, look it up. It's even easier in todays computer age, though my teenagers still whine about sore button pushing fingers...... They shoulda learned how to use a card catalog and the Dewey decimal system!
Take care-
 
I used to be a Ford parts guy back in the Dark Ages (1979-80) so forgive me if this info isn't current!

If I remember correctly, the 1 ton vehicle's brake drums, rotors,
calipers, etc. are typically going to be heavier duty and more expensive to replace.

As I said, this is trying to remember back 30+ years ago, and that may no longer be the case with the later models, but bears checking out.
 
Does anyone know how much more brake repairs cost on a 1 ton verses a 3/4 ton on a percentage basis? 10% to 20% more, or more than that?<br /><br />Do they both use the same size tires?
 
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